Item No: 421_STG_4
CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK AFR HEADS CRATE MOTOR 615 hp

Price:   $8,975.00
 

  Quantity:  
SBC CHEVY TURN KEY STAGE 4.0 QRP SERIES. HYDAULIC ROLLER CAM 421 CUBIC INCH ENGINE 605HP  STREET ROD SETUP. RUNS ON PREMIUM PUMP GAS. FORGED PISTONS 4340 FORGED CRANK AND 6.0 SCAT COMPETITION SERIES RODS WITH ARP CAP SCREWS, AFR HEADS. 

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FULLY ASSEMBLED FROM CARB TO OIL PAN. FULLY DRESSED OUT AS PICTURED.

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Introducing our Turn Key fully dressed Stage 4.0 Roller cam 421 cid 605hp engine. The build sheet is at the lower part of this listing. QRP SERIES. The QRP Series engines have many parts upgraded to what we consider essential for extreme durability, and performance. QRP stands for, "quality, reliability, performance." Our lower cost engines do not offer the items listed below in blue print. Look for the QRP Series rating in the title for those wanting the best we offer in an engine package. 

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OUR 421 ENGINES IS QRP RATED

- DART SHP BLOCK WITH SPLAYED MAIN CAPS. COMMONLY USED IN ENGINES BUILT TO 800+ HORSE POWER.

- AFR FULLY CNC D ALUMINUM ALLOY HEADS 75CC COMB. CHAMBERS 2.10/1.60 VALVES.  

- HOWARDS ROLLER CAM AND TIE BAR STREET STRIP ROLLER LIFTERS. A CUT ABOVE THE OTHERS 

- SCORPION ENDURANCE SERIES ROCKERS 1.5 OR 1.6 RATIO, THE HIGHEST RATED ALUMINUM ROCKER MONEY CAN BUY. 

- SCAT 4340 FULLY FORGED STEEL NEUTRAL BAL. CRANKSHAFT. 800+ HP RATED, KING HP, (HIGH PERFORMANCE SERIES) BEARINGS. BALANCED ON OUR 2013 MODEL CWT BALANCER TO BELOW 2 GRAMS.

- SCAT COMPETITION SERIES RODS 7/16 ARP CAP SCREWS. CIRCLE TRACK PROVEN. 700+HP RATED

- PROBE SRS, (SPORTSMAN RACING SERIES) FORGED PISTONS. 800+HP RATED.

- QUICKFUEL Q-950 DOUBLE PUMPER CARB WITH DUAL METERING BLOCKS.

- MELLING M-SELECT SERIES OIL PUMP WITH M-SELECT DRIVE ROD

- CHAMP CUSTOM 8 QT. OIL PAN WITH OIL CONTROL SYSTEM.

- POLISHED ALUMINUM WATER PUMP WITH ALUMINUM IMPELLER

- TRUE SFI RATED PRO-RACE DAMPER.

- TWO YEAR WARRANTY 

This engine is designed for street/strip use. Premium pump gas friendly. 

THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE FROM CARBURETOR TO OIL PAN. 


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Two year warranty, see details below. 

This engine is designed to have a very high level of drivability, or street manners, as it may be referred to, when choosing cam choice #3 and #4 are our favorite for offering exceptional low end and mid range performance plus max drivability.    


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The many pictures of our Turn Key engine are to show you how it looks from many different angles to give you a true vision of what this engine looks like fully dressed out. It looks great from any angle in our opinion. This is a file photo. Your actual engine will have the Q-950 Carb. It is a far better looking carb than what you see on the engine. See pictures below of the Q-950 carb.

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UPDATED DYNO INFO COMING SOON 

If you choose to go with the Hurricane single plane intake and the first choice cam with 1.6 rockers, it will bring the hp numbers up to approx. 605. We do not recommend the single plane intake combined with cam choice 1 on any car that is over approx 3,200 lbs. Please read the cam info provided below on the four cam choices before purchasing this engine. If your car is over approx. 3,200 lbs then the second cam choice listed below is what you should choose with a rocker ratio choice of 1.5 For cars that are heavier than 3800 lbs then the cam choice # 3 or#4 is what we suggest. Final gearing also interplays with this. The third or fourth cam choice can also be used in lighter cars under 3800 lbs that are geared on the tall side for much better drivability, and less demand for the use of a stall converter. Cam choice #3 or #4 will greatly extend the valve train life as compared to the larger lift and duration cams listed. It is a known fact that going with a cam with lower lift and duration can and will make the engine feel as if it has much more power than the larger cams produce. This is due to the fact that these cams with lower profile numbers move the torque band down in the usable rpm range. The fun factor is greatly increased. Those with medium to heavy cars would notice this to much greater extent.

Here are a few good reasons why we think the 421/427 engine is a better choice versus the 383 or 406 engine.

1. The 421/427 will accelerate most medium to heavy cars dramatically quicker than the common 383 s on the market. The main difference you would notice with a 421/427 is that the torque comes in much lower than a 383. So dramatic is the difference you would estimate the engine to have a much higher horsepower rating than it actually has. If your not familiar with the 421/427 engine do an internet search titled sbc 421/427 vs 383, and you will be convinced of the difference. There is no inherent weakness in the 421/427 engine when using a Dart high performance block. These engines are built to last. All parts used have much higher hp ratings than this engine is producing. The stroke on this engine is at 3.875. See our other listings for the 434 Stage 5.5 engine with a 4.00 stroke setup. 

2. The exhaust note that a small block 421/427 makes is much deeper than what is heard from the typical 350 or 383 engine. You will hear the difference in the exhaust note versus a 383 for sure. The difference is dramatic to say the least. The stroke on a 421/427 is at 3.875 compared to 3.750 that is used in a 383 or 406 If you presently have a 383 engine then the difference you will notice with the 421/427 is what could be considered overwhelming. 

3. The ability to put this engine in medium to heavy weight cars without killing it s acceleration, or having to deepen the final gear, and needing a huge stall converter is a real plus in our opinion. Rest assured this engine will accelerate a 3600lb car much better than the 350 or 383 is capable of. 

4. Very low maintenance, decent drivability, and making up to 602 hp yet costing only a slight amount more than building a 383 or 406 street rod engine. Horsepower will vary, depending on cam, carb and intake choice. You have up to four different cams to choose from, and two styles of intake manifolds plus two rocker ratios.   

5. Longevity, reliability and low maintenance. You don t have to turn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce it s max hp output. Nothing unsafe about running an engine that s well built such as this, up to 6,200 rpm. The Howards hydraulic roller cam is very reliable and the Howards Tie bar lifters are bullet proof. These lifters cost well over $300.00. AFR fully cnc d heads. The new Dart Super High Performance block would be indestructible built to the power rating of this engine. The fully forged Scat crank and Scat Competition rods are rated well above this engines output. The Probe SRS, (Sportsman Racing Series) pistons are rated at 800+hp. The protection against detonation is at it s highest with these type pistons. 

6. Should you ever decide to sell your car, and I know most of you say you never will, the resale of a street rod with a 421/427 engine in it is very desirable compared to those running 350 s or 383 s. No 383 can be built up to the level of a 421/427 with both running pump gas, same compression. The torque numbers down low in the rpm band are what makes the 421/427 such an incredible engine as compared to the 383. 

7. The cost of the Stage 4.0/5.0 roller cam 421/427 engine offers more value than the 383 engine considering the power and torque increase. Resale value is greatly increased. 

We do a full test run on every engine we build. Not exactly a dyno, but this procedure is performed on a test mule. The engine is ran for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand as the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.

As of 9/15/2013 we have completed installation of our brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. In the past we have out sourced our dyno work. Never being able to do the research and development we truly wanted, prompted us to make the $105,000.00 investment. Needless to say it s been the best investment we have ever made. Every aspect of our engines can now be monitored, calibrated, tuned, and best of all see what combos make the best power, with consideration to drivability. One thing we have noticed is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have less top end horse power as expected but the torque increase in the low rpm range is much greater than the higher horse power setup. This increase in torque down low is what you want if your sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better. We have also built an engine that we refer to as our "house engine" Every week we put this engine on our dyno to do our research on different combos of cam, intake, carb, as well as changing settings to optimize the engine. What we are also doing is putting this engine through a durability test to see how the parts are holding up to extensive dyno testing. We have tore the engine down once already after approx. 60 hard dyno passes and found zero wear or failures of any of the parts used. We tested cylinder leak down compression, bearings valve guides, and many other parts in the engine. We even tested our spring pressures to see how well they are holding up. We put the engine back together and will continue testing. Our objective is to build our engines as reliable as possible.  

The build sheet is as follows:

 The bare block is a fully machined brand new Dart SHP designed for street or strip applications. This engine is bored and diamond finish honed to 4.155 x 3.875 stroke and calculates out to be a true 421 cubic inch engine. This engine is 100% brand new from top to bottom. We use the Sunnen SV-10 Diamond hone machine with a two step process. 

Important notice.

 This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A 130 gph rated pump should be sufficient. If you have chosen the de-tuned version of this engine, then the 110 gph rated pump will suffice. It s best not use a higher capacity fuel pump than required. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. The electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to mechanical system in our opinion. 

  The compression range will be 10.30:1 and will certainly make the highest horse power when coupled with our cam choice # 1  We do not see any problems with a 10.30:1 compression range for street use providing that you keep the engine in proper tune. Our custom made SRS Probe forged pistons set flush at 9.015 deck height allowing for a perfect quench/squish zone of appox. .038-.040 The forged pistons are highly resistant to detonation. This engine is built with the premium grade SRS Probe pistons. These pistons are a considerable step up from the FPS Probe pistons. They are fully cnc machined, and use the premium 1/16 1/16 3/16 rings. These pistons are made from 2618 aircraft alloy.

The blocks used for building our Stage 4.0 roller cam 421 do have four bolt splayed main caps. 800+ hp handling capable.

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Block has been bored and torque plate honed to 4.155 The use of a torque plate when honing is a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market fail to do this.

 

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Block has been decked to approx. 9.015 It is desirable to keep the deck as thick as possible, so as little as possible has been removed to correct any deviations and provide a very smooth surface with an RA finish off approx 15 We use a profilometer to check our deck surface. Our pistons have a taller than normal compression height. (1.080) This allows the piston to have a very good quench zone of around .038-.040, without butchering the deck on the block. Most catalog pistons sit much lower in the block, and this may be desirable when used in old blocks that  have had the deck milled down many times, but when installing such pistons in blocks that have a near stock deck height, the quench zone is very poor. We had our pistons custom made to address this issue and this allows us to keep our decks at near stock height. Keeping the quench/squish zone tight not only makes more power, but protects the engine from detonation to much greater extent than a loose quench. Fuel mileage is also improved. 

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As seen in the picture above, the Dart block has splayed main caps. This creates a structural integrety to the block unparalleled by a regular four bolt main GM block. 

 There is no difference in the engine mount position or transmission hookup of this block compared to an oem gm block. It is totally interchangeable

We use Genuine Felpro rear main and timing seals. It is very critical that these seals are of the highest quality. We have seen terrible failures with some of the low quality rear main and timing cover seals. The other item in the picture below is an oil filter adapter, and this is included and installed on the engine. 

Pictured below is our Centroid cnc block blue printing machine. The machine stands nearly 10 feet tall and weighs approx. 6,000 lbs. A huge difference of what you see at most machine shops.

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The Centroid DRX 750 at last years SEMA show. All were impressed by this machines performance. It would be fair to say this is one of the most advanced block blue printing machines on the market. 

 The accuracy this machine provides is far superior to conventional style machinery used by many shops. The RA finish on the deck is below 16. Deck trueness from front to back, side to side is within less than .0005  

 

 We are now offering a flat rate shipping fee on this item, see details below. We do have this engine available in many variations of build levels, (bare block, short block, long block, and turn key). See our other listing

Scorpion Endurance series 1.5 OR 1.6 ratio roller rockers with 7/16 ARP rocker studs. We recommend choosing the 1.5 ratio for better low end response, and extended valve train life. 

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THE BEST HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING ROCKER ARMS MANUFACTURED IN THE USA

It is our opinion that Scorpion builds the best aluminum rockers money can buy. They have the highest spring pressure rating of any aluminum rocker made. The spring pressure that this engine operates at is less than half of what these rockers are rated to withstand. They have a near silent operation as compared to other lower cost rockers. We were amazed at the low level of sound produced in the valve train when we did a test run using our first set of Scorpions. We attribute this quiet operation to the close tolerances in the trunnion section. The trunnion barrels are also micro polished. The rockers them selves have a life time warranty. The aluminum body is made from a 7000 series aircraft alloy. Most rockers have a considerable amount of side play in the trunnion section, and a more or less excessive amount of bearing clearance. We find the Scorpion to have a very small amount of this loose feel in the trunnion. Many round track and drag racers run these at very high rpm levels and even run them on solid roller setups. With the milder spring pressures our engines are setup at, it would be fair to say these rockers would last a lifetime. Our 421/427 engines use the Scorpion Endurance Series rockers. These are the top of the line Scorpion rocker. The reason we use them rather than the regular Race Series Scorpion rockers is that they weigh 496 grams per set less. This is a monumental difference when it comes to valve train weight. Cost is much higher on these than the regular race series Scorpion rockers but well worth it in our opinion. Couple this with the Howards light weight premium .080 wall push rods that weigh 70 grams less per set than most others and you have a huge weight savings on valve train components. Even our PBM valves with the back cut feature are approx. 160 grams lighter per set than most regular stainless valves on the market. By reducing the rotational/reciprocating weight of these parts you not only gain a slight amount in horse power, but the acceleration and deceleration of the engine is greatly improved, or may we say in simpler terms, much crisper throttle response. The potential for valve float under high rpm is a real issue with most high performance engines using hydraulic roller components. By reducing the weight on valve train components, you also reduce the possibility of valve float to a considerable degree. These factors mentioned above are not the only reason we choose to use these reduced weight components. The weight reduction of valve train components to the level we have reduced them will dramatically increase the life of every moving part in the valve train. Due to the fact some of our cam choices are on the rather large side and these engines will possibly be drove for many miles, we see this as a must. The lighter weight components does not reduce durability of these items by no means, to the contrary they improve it to a huge degree. These components used are considered on the high end scale as far as quality goes so the reduction of weight in the construction of them does not comprise them in the least. 

Below is an exerpt from Scorpions website.

All Scorpion Rockers Feature:

Needle Bearing Fulcrum and Roller Tip, Centerless Ground Trunnion, Centerless Ground Pin & Roller, Burr-Free Thru Hole in Trunnion, Large Machined Seat, Thick Walled Adjusting Nut, Pedestals Machined from Solid Steel, Black Oxide Coated Steel Parts, & 100% CNC Machined. Other benefits include:

  • Available in all ratios
  • Lightweight for maximum performance and durability
  • Easily handle .950” lift and 950 lbs of open spring pressure
  • Clear 1.625” valve springs
  • Micropolished surfaces finish for maximum durability
  • Anodized for additional protection and aesthetics

Pictured below are our Gold Series Extreme duty Stud Girdles. We use these on every engine we build. These have 3/8 s size bolts and larger bars as compared to our former series.

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Scat 4340 Fully Forged Steel crank, 3.875 stroke

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TAKE A LOOK AT SOME OF THE ADVANCED FEATURES FOR THE SCAT 4340 CRANKSHAFT

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We do our own balancing with our brand new, 2013 model CWT 5500 Series Balancer. This machine will replace our 2011 Hines Legend balancer. The CWT 5500 is the absolute ultimate for precision balancing. When we balance the assembly for this engine, it will be to very high specs. Usually plus or minus 1-2 grams. We include a balance sheet with your setup.

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One of the most important features of our balancing procedure is that we mount the flexplate or flywheel on the end of the crank to assure perfection in the balancing. We serial number the plate, and can easily replace your flexplate to an exact match should you ever need. You would have to send us your damaged plate to match it. Many people have plates that have lost several teeth due to a starter issue. If this ever happens just send us the plate and we can reproduce it, and we do also compensate for the missing teeth, when matching up the plate on the balancer.

We have used King bearings exclusively in every engine we have built. The King bearings are not only of outstanding quality, but they are very unique in design. Here is where quality, design, and value all come together. These are simply the best bearings on the market. 


THIS ENIGNE USES THE KING XP SERIES, (HIGH PERFORMANCE) BEARINGS. 

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Pro-Race SFI rated damper is used on all of our 421/427 engines.

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INTERNALY BALANCED 

 

6.61" DIAMETER REDUCED ROTATIONAL MASS, OFFERS EXCELLENT CLEARANCE. 

 

1.52" THICKNESS

 

2.38" THICKNESS WITH HUB

 

SFI APPROVED


The actual flexplate appearance may vary. Some of our shipments will have the zinc dichromate finish and some may have a black powder coat finish.

 This is an extremely heavy duty flex plate. The plate section is 25% thicker than the oem stock model, and is double welded on each side. Your actual flexplate is balanced with the rotating assembly. Those running manual trans will need a flywheel. We do offer this item at an additional cost.

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Our choice of rods are the 6 inch I beam SCAT COMPETITION SERIES bushed rods. 

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The Scat Pro-Competition extreme duty I-beam rods are not to be mistaken for conventional I-beam rods. They are not only a much better designed rod, they are made from forged 4340 alloy, and have huge 7/16 s genuine ARP cap screws. 700hp + rated. The critical sizing of both ends of the rods is performed on a Sunnen machine in the USA by Scat Industries, and we proof the rods once more on our Sunnen rod machine before installation in the engine. These rods are excellent and offer the extra security needed in high horse power applications. Take notice of the design of these rods. They are far superior to conventional style I-beam rods. We are now using this rod in all of our Stage 3.5, 4, and 5 sbc engines. We also use this series rod in our big block 540 engines, making approx. 700+hp We find this rod to be slightly heavier than most regular I-beam rods on the market, yet much lighter than most H-Beam rods. If you do an Internet search on the Scat Pro-Competition rods, you will find a vast amount of info on many car forums. All of the info is 100% positive. Many circle track engines running at a continuous average of 7000 rpm are using these rods. Notice the general appearance in the pictures. These rods do look impressive. The style is reminiscent of a steel billet rod. As mentioned above, this is not your ordinary I-beam rod. Zero failures from any of the engines we have built with these rods in the past 5 years

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PROBE SRS Series 2618 FORGED PISTONS. FULL FLOATING WRIST PIN DESIGN WITH TWO VALVE RELIEFS.

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PROBE FULLY FORGED FLAT TOP OR DISH PISTONS RATED AT 800+ HP THESE PISTONS ARE VERY RESISTANT TO THE DAMAGE CAUSED BY DETONATION COMPARED TO NON FORGED PISTONS. THESE PISTONS HAVE TWO VALVE RELIEFS AND USE FULL FLOATING WRIST PINS. PROBE PISTONS ARE 100% MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. THESE PISTONS ARE MADE FROM 2618 AIRCRAFT ALLOY.

 

 

Most forged street rod pistons that are in the lower cost range use a 4032 high silicone alloy. Nothing wrong with this alloy, but the 2618 Aircraft grade is much more resistant to detonation. This is the alloy used on all high end racing pistons. Our pistons have a redesigned skirt to lessen piston rattle when cold. This is a common occurrence with pistons made from 2618, but due to the redesigned skirt this noise is at a minimum, and completely goes away once the engine is fully warmed up. The idea of using such a high quality piston in our engines is due to it s resistance against detonation. Many street rod engine builders are now using a very low cost piston known as a hyper-eutectic piston, usually under the brand name of Speed Pro or Keith Black. We would not even consider using such pistons. The problem with these pistons is when subjected to detonation, they can fragment away from the rod. This can allow the connecting rod to destroy the block, crank, and cylinder head. The forged piston is so much more resistant to heat, especially those made from 2618 alloy such as ours. This alloy is also very strong, and should excessive detonation occur beyond the limits of this piston, it will not fragment allowing the connecting rod to destroy your engine. Not saying that a 2618 forged piston can t be destroyed from detonation, as they certainly can, but will withstand a much higher amount of heat vs other alloys such as the common 4032 and especially the hyper-eutectic pistons, and will stay intact.


We use the D-Cup style SRS Probe pistons. Also known as a reverse dome dish piston. Flat top pistons also available for those wanting higher compression. These pistons have a rev. dome dish when combined with our AFR 75cc heads will created a compression ratio of approx. 10.35:1 We also offer this engine in a higher compression version with a solid roller cam option. See our other listings for a full line of our engines. 


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We are offering four cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.

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Cam choice #1

PART # 186755-10

  • VALVE LIFT WITH 1.5 ROCKERS : INT .600 / EXT .580
  • DURATION IN DEGREES : ADVERTISED - INT .400 / EXT .387
  • DURATION @0.050" : INT .251 / EXT .255
  • LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE : 110º
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This cam is the most aggressive of the three choices listed. It will make it s peak horse power at approx 6300 rpm. The idle is very radical. We recommend a stall converter of around 2800-3500, preferably closer to the high side of this range. Final gearing would need to be at 355 or numerically higher if used in a car weighing more than 3400lbs. This cam does make the most power between the other choices but will trade off bottom end throttle response and low speed cruising in the low rpm range. You would not be able to run an overdrive trans with this cam choice unless the rpm range is at approximatly 2300 rpm. Valve train life is reduced to a slight degree with this cam as compared to the other choices. This would only be a concern for those wanting to drive their vehicles on long trips or frequent use. It would be fair to say this cam choice puts your setup into the Pro-Street league. Drivability is fair at best with this cam. The exception to this would be those with very light cars, weighing below 3000lbs. I have personally drove this a car with this engine weighing that weighed around 3300 lbs. and did find it to do very well with a five speed manual trans. It would cruise at approx 2250 rpm in fourth gear. When shifted to fifth, (overdrive), the engine seemed to require approx 2350 or more at a speed of about 55-60 mph. Soon as the engine dropped to around 2100 it fell flat on it s face when in the upper gear range. A five or six speed trans in a medium weight car was not a bad combo with this cam. The final gear in the car was approx 355. Those with an automatic trans in cars weighing 3300lbs or more should have a 355 gear if they do go with this cam choice. If your car is in the 3800lb or more range, I advice against this cam, regardless of gearing or stall. If your on the fence with this cam choice and the one below, then you may go with this cam and keep the rocker ratio at 1.5 or go with cam choice 2 and go with a 1.6 ratio.

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Cam choice #2 

PART # 180345-10

  • VALVE LIFT WITH 1.5 ROCKERS : INT .565 / EXT .580
  • DURATION IN DEGREES : ADVERTISED - INT .300 / EXT .306
  • DURATION @0.050" : INT .245 / EXT .253
  • LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE : 110º
Cam choice 2 is the perfect, happy medium for those wanting decent drivability in medium weight cars, yet, this cam will still have an aggressive sound at idle. You would require a stall converter in the 2800-3000 range. Staying closer to the high side of this range would be better. Final gearing would need to be at 330 or numerically higher. Should you have a car in the weight range of around 3600lbs or more, then the final gearing should be around 355 or better. Hp numbers will drop with this cam. Possibly around 30-35 at the most. Combine this cam choice with the dual plane intake option and hp numbers will fall approx another 10-15. Do not opt for the single plane intake if your car is in the medium to heavy weight range. They do not operate as well as the dual plane intake on the bottom end. If your car is very light, below 3200lbs, then the single plane intake is suitable. This is our best selling cam choice with our 421/427 engine.
 
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Cam choice #3

PART # 180265-10

  • VALVE LIFT WITH 1.5 ROCKERS : INT .530 / EXT .545
  • DURATION IN DEGREES : ADVERTISED - INT .286 / EXT .294
  • DURATION @0.050" : INT .233 / EXT .241
  • LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE : 110 

This cam choice (3) is the perfect all around setup for those wanting a very good bottom and mid range response, yet still making excellent power at the top. Horsepower rating would drop to approx 530 when coupled with 1.5 rockers and the dual plane intake. Choosing the single plane intake with this cam choice would be totally impractical. This cam will make it s peak power at approx 5600 rpm. Stall converter rating should be at least 2500-2800 If your car is in the heavy weight range, and your wanting much better streetability, then this is the correct cam choice. You still want to keep the final gear ratio at approx 320 or numerically higher, but keeping the gear ratio on the tall side is more acceptable with this cam compared to the other two choices. You may choose 1.5 or 1.6 rockers with this cam, but we recommend the 1.5 rockers for even better low end response. You can also expect a much longer valve train life with this cam compared to the larger cams listed above, especially with the 1.5 ratio rocker choice. Carb size when using this cam will drop to the SS-830. Slightly better fuel mileage, and better throttle responce would be noticed with this carb versus the Q-950 If your vehicle is very heavy, over 4000lbs or a full size sport truck, then we recommend our cam choice #4. 

These three cams mentioned above should not be ran in a vehicle that desires to run an overdrive automatic trans. You could operate an overdrive trans with the cam choice 3 but only if the final drive were at approx 355 or better and even then low rpm cruising in the 1700-1900 rpm range would not be possible. If low rpm operation and extended distance driving is desired then our cam choice #4 would be suitable. See details below on cam choice #4

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Cam choice # 4

PART # 180245-10

  • VALVE LIFT WITH 1.5 ROCKERS : INT .500 / EXT .510
  • DURATION IN DEGREES : ADVERTISED - INT .278 / EXT .284
  • DURATION @0.050" : INT .225 / EXT .231
  • LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE : 110º 

Cam choice #4 would be an excellent choice for those with a very heavy car or sport truck. This cam would also be the best choice for those running a 700R4 trans. Low speed cruising, heavy car, running AC, ability to cruise at low rpm ranges with ease, then this cam would be an excellent choice. Near off idle power. Near stock stall converter, but you would still want a 2200-2500 stall for best results. Gearing could be considerably tall allowing for much better fuel mileage. Torque in the low rpm range would be off the charts high. You would loose a bit more off the top, but the reward down low would be very impressive. Carb size when using this cam will drop to the SS-830. Slightly better fuel mileage, and better throttle response would be noticed with this carb as compared to the others mentioned above. Valve train wear would be near non existent with this cam, coupled with 1.5 rockers. 

The information listed above on cam selection is not etched in stone. You could step outside these limitations towards the more aggressive side, but the driving experience will usually not be as exciting as if you stayed on the conservative side. The larger cams would possibly cross the finish line a bit sooner as compared to the smaller choices, but the smaller cams will have a better feel in a narrower power band. Were all hungry for as much horse power as we can get, but to build an engine of a given size to higher limits of horse power will always require a trade off. Actually the 421/427 engine does somewhat offer the best of both worlds when it comes to bottom and top end power, but rest assured the bigger cams are more demanding of gearing, stall and sensitive to weight, and suffer on drivability.

THE CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD OR SPORT TRUCK.

We have had a few customers wanting to run our Stage 4.0/5.0 421/427 engine in a heavy duty work truck such as a 3/4 ton or 1 ton dually used for trailer towing. None of the four cams listed above would be suitable for this. We do have cams for such applications. We recommend staying with the 421 size engine due it s thicker cyl. walls when using this engine in a work truck. Please continue reading.

HOWARDS TIE BAR LIFTERS

 
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Howards Cams Street series retrofit hydraulic roller lifters are designed for street performance enthusiasts who want to upgrade to a hydraulic roller camshaft. They are manufactured to fit early or late model blocks, including blocks with tall lifter bosses. Howards Cams uses cold form technology to shape their bodies for durability. The lifters are then carbonitrided and tempered for hardness. They also feature hardened and tempered steel alloy roller wheels, heat-treated stainless steel cross bars, and high-alloy steel tie bar buttons. Howards Cams Street series retrofit hydraulic roller lifters are made in the USA and are specifically designed for street applications up to 6,500 rpm or possibly more.

              

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OUR 421/427 USE ONLY THE HOWARDS BRAND PUSHRODS. LIGHT WEIGHT IN DESIGN, YET  VERY STRONG. MADE IN THE USA. THEY ARE MADE FROM 4130 CHROMOLY STEEL. REGULAR SO CALLED HARDENED PUSHRODS WILL MOST LIKELY FLEX IN THE ENGINE WHEN RUNNING ABOVE NORMAL RPM RANGES, AND RISK BENDING UNDER HIGH RMP. THESE DO NOT HAVE THE WELDED BALL ON THE END. WE ONLY USE THE SWEDGED ONE PC. DESIGN. A WELL PROVEN DESIGN FAR SUPERIOR TO THE STYLE MANY OTHERS USE IN ENGINES. 4130 CHROMOLY STEEL IS ALSO MUCH STRONGER, AND WILL RESIST FLEXING. WHEN A PUSHROD FLEXES IN THE ENGINE YOU ARE LOOSING LIFT. DON T BE MISLEAD BY THE TERM "HARDENED", AS THIS IS NOTHING MORE THAN A STOCK STYLE LOW COST PUSH ROD. THEY WILL FLEX IN THE ENGINE OR POSSIBLY PERMANENTLY BEND.


QUICK FUEL DUAL PUMP MODEL Q-950 CFM MECHANICAL SEC., SS-830 or SS-850 

We will select the correct carb for your engine depending on cam and intake choice. Regardless of what we put on the engine it will be a true dual pump carb. 

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Big-time performance with Quick Fuel Q-Series 4-barrel carburetors with Proform high-flow main bodies, which include either down-leg or annular boosters, screw-in idle and high-speed air bleeds, accelerator pump discharge nozzles, and a blended venturi area. These carburetors have CNC-machined billet metering blocks with 4-stage emulsion to provide more precise fuel metering, improve throttle response, and give a more uniform fuel performance curve. With so many great benefits and their blend of performance and drivability, it s no wonder that these Quick Fuel Q-Series carburetors are the popular choice.

Single or dual plane Polish finish intake your choice, satin available if you prefer. The single plane intake should only be used on cars that are very light weight, and have good hood clearance. 

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Pictured below is our most popular intake choice. The dual plane crosswind. This intake is designed exactly like the Edlebock RPM Airgap. This intake offers much better low end responce than the single plane intake.  

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Pictured below are our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of our valve covers we have listed. It will be your choice at no additional cost. The valve covers are included with this engine.

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Any choice of valve covers you want. See our wide selection of very high end valve covers.

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304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.

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Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1014 premium race grade series.

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ARP HEAD BOLTS AND WASHERS

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ARP ROCKER ARM STUDS ARE THE ONLY STUDS WE USE IN OUR ENGINES.

The timing components are the Cloyes  Race Billet double roller timing set. Part # 9-3645X3

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We use the top of the line Cloyes timing set. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany, and the sprockets are hardened billet steel upper and lower and made in the USA. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing. The cost on this setup is approx $129.00 This is approximately four times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will notice the upper gear has a fully array of lightening holes in it. It is a bit over-kill to use this expensive setup but what we really like about it, besides being the most precise timing set made, is that they come in three different sizes. Many times a regular timing set will have to much tension in the chain for various reasons, and if the mains have been line bored or line honed this can create a loose chain effect. This top of the line timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit of this premium set is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way, and longevity of this setup would be most likely for life. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups.


POLISHED ALUMINUM TIMING COVER. 

We use only Felpro seals and gaskets with our timing cover. 

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The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades versus the regular Melling oil pumps. This oil pump is a much better unit than the typical Melling M-55 series. Gears are billet steel, stronger body, nitrite coated, corrosion resistant coating. The drive rod that is included is also from the M-Select line. We use this exact unit in our Stage 4&5 street rod engines only. 

PICS COMING SOON OF THIS OIL PAN.

Pictured above is the type of oil pan included with this engine. The USA made Champ oil pan used on this engine has an 8qt. capacity. It has an elaborate oil control system in it. Windage tray, crank scraper, .055 gauge outer shell, with reinforcing ribs. Champ oil pans are made in the USA. All QRP Series engines will have the Champ oil pan on them.

We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.

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Our choice of oil pan and valve cover fasteners is our premium studded mini nut set. The nuts in this kit have a serrated face and built in washer. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine. Far superior to the typical bolts used by most others. We use this set on all of our engines.

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Listed below are the items that are installed on the outside of the engine. These items are what make this a "Turn Key" engine.

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BILLET ALUMINUM BREATHER, AND PCV BREATHER.

Pictured below is our exhaust evacuation system. It will be your choice of the breather/pcv setup pictured above or the exhaust evac. system. If you have chose cam choice 1 or 2 then we highly recommend the exhaust evac. system. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at it s best, but the vacuum is also very erratic. It would be fair to say that the fuel to air ratio is somewhat erratic when using a pcv system on a street rod of this level. The evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit from the evac system is that your not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi burned by-products from the engine oil, and combustion process. Another downside to using the pcv system is that the vacuum levels are somewhat insufficient at medium to high rpm to handle the blow by gasses generated especially with a new high compression engine. This lower than normal level of vacuum is a result of the size of the heads, cam, carb and intake, and couple this with the higher than normal compression ratio, and you may have problems from an excess of blow by gasses building up in the crankcase. There are many factors to this, and it s not etched in stone that you can t run a conventional pcv system, but depending on your setup and driving habits, the evac system may serve you better. Oil leakage from engine seals and oil forcing out of any possible orifice are common with engines that are unable to rid them selves of excess crankcase pressure. On a stock low compression engine the pcv system operates much better, but not on a street rod or race engine. You will never see any race engine using one at the track for sure. We will let you decide what setup you want. After the engine is completely broke in the pcv setup is not as detrimental, but as mentioned depending on may factors, it may not be the best choice. The break in time is also likely to be much slower with the pcv setup. There is no up charge for the evac system. It requires a slight bit of work to install but is relatively simple 

If you do choose the exhaust evac system there are few other recommendations I would like to make. The bullet style perforated mufflers such as those made by Magnaflow as well as many other companies not only sound the best, but also allow the evac system to work much better than chambered mufflers such as Flow Master brand. The chambered muffler creates a back pressure pulse that will somewhat interfere with the air flow and draw. They say chambered mufflers help bottom end response, and yes they do, but you should have no shortage of bottom end power with this engine. I can assure you the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect. These are not to be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, those are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound. Magnaflow is one of the popular brands of the true straight through mufflers on the market, and there are several others. The sound level is controlled by the choice of length you have. I find the 12-16 inch length to sound the best. If you choose these type mufflers be sure they have perforated inner walls not fluted.  

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BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.

We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past, but we noticed that from the driver side of the engine there was a birds eye view of the timing pointer, so we decided to use these on all of our engines. 

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RED, BLACK OR CHROME  3hp STARTER INCLUDED. YOUR CHOICE


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Polished aluminum high volume water pump, with aluminum impeller. This is a very high quality unit. 


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120 AMP ONE WIRE CHROME ALTERNATOR AND ALUMINUM BRACKET KIT

Pictured below are a few of our distributor and wire combinations. The first picture below is the compact ready to run HEI distributor. This unit will not have any problems with fire wall clearance that may be encountered with a full size HEI unit. 

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You will have a choice of colors on the HEI distributor cap and the plug wires. See our other listings for a variety of color choices. We thought the best looking combination was the red HEI cap with the black wires. If your putting this engine in a pre-75 model car, be sure to select the oe style distributor cap rather than the super cap. The oe style cap will allow much better firewall clearance than the super cap. There are also a few cars that will not even allow the use of any type full size HEI distributor due to very close firewall clearance. If you suspect this to be a problem then we will install a Ready to run HEI distributor in the engine. The third picture above is of the ready to run unit. Take notice of it s compact size. It will have a cap size identical to the early point style dist. It will require an external coil, but this smaller unit is still considered an full HEI distributor. We recommend the E-Core style coil to be used with the small base ready to run unit. See our other listings for this type of coil.

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65,000 VOLT HEI DISTRIBUTOR AND 8.5MM MEGAFIRE SPARK PLUG WIRES

Let it be understood that the plug wires used on this engine are a very high end set made in the USA by United Wire in Cleavland Ohio. They are makers of most all the premium wires in this country. Also let it be understood that the superb sizing of these wires as can clearly be seen in any of the pictures did not come out of the box like this. We custom cut the wires to exact length. These wires are configured to go under the headers, as this is a very popular setup. If your running looms then let us know and we will custom size them to a perfect fit. If your running block hugger headers they will have to be configured differently also. So do let us know this information. Should you decide on the black wires, they will be the Accel 300 Series 8.8 premium grade wires. These are a much more expensive wire than the Megga Fires, but cost to you will be the same. The Accel wires sell for right at $100.00 per set at all major retail outlets and are in our opinion the best choice. 


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WATER PUMP, CRANK, AND POWER STEERING PULLEY

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CHROME POWER STEERING PUMP WITH POLISHED PULLEY AND BRACKET KIT.

 Our new 427 engine is premium pump gas friendly, VERY GOOD STREET MANNERS. Never run regular 87 octane in this engine, premium only. Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees regardless of what your timing shows to be. You can never totally trust timing components accuracy. 

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING

For those with very heavy vehicles, such as 4x4  quad cab trucks, 3/4 ton trucks, and crew cab/ex-cab trucks, Suburbans, plus trucks that may do light to medium trailer towing, I strongly recommend the de-tuned version of this engine and going with our 421 Stage 4.0 The 4.0 will have thicker cylinder walls than the 427 engine. We have a write up on de-tuning for very heavy vehicles in that add.

 For those wanting to run a supercharger, we recommend the extra deep dish -20cc pistons with the 72cc heads regardless of what vehicle your putting this engine in.  

SFI APPROVABLE FLEX PLATE, Black Powder coat or zinc dichromate  from Scat . This flexplate will resist cracking, warpage, leading to imbalance in the engine. One good telltale in identifying a cheap flex plate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. Ours are welded on both sides, and is approx. 35 thousandths thicker than an oem plate. Never would we use the thinner plate on an assembly such as this. It is also zinc dichromate coated. We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel.

We would like to point out that the machinists that are doing this work have many years each of experience building racing engines. You can rest assure that this very critical work is being done to exacting specs and with great care. It would be comforting to know that all machine shops do this work properly, and most probably do, but you can bet that some do not have the experience or the proper equipment. We build many engines that cost upwards of $50,000.00

We do not dyno test each engine, as it not necessary, but we have dyno tested the original setup to very extensive levels. We do now include the engine test mule run at no additional cost. The engine is thoroughly tested for leaks, vibration, unusual noises, overall engine sound and feel. This test also allows testing of the starter, alt, water pump and carb. 

THIS ENGINE USES THE MOST DESIRABLE CHOICES IN PARTS. WE HAVE REVIEWED WHAT THE COMPETITION IS OFFERING, AND ARE 100% CONVINCED WE ARE OFFERING THE BEST VALUE YOU WILL EVER FIND.

Many have asked why were able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It is because were also a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase prices of the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master WD pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.

WARRANTY INFORMATION

This engine has a Two year warranty with unlimited mileage. Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first year of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine to and from you. We do not cover the removal or installation of the engine should it be required at any time during the warranty period. The second year will cover all parts minus any labor to remove and install needed parts. Shipping of the engine is not covered in the second year of warranty. Should a problem occur in the first year of the warranty that can be repaired by you or a qualified repair shop, we will require an estimate to be submitted for approval. This estimate is to be in writing via fax or email before our approval is given. If we do approve the cost for repairs performed outside our shop we will send the approval via email or fax to you. The decision on what is to be allowed for repairs will be made by us. It is doubtful you will have a problem with this engine for many years to come, as we consider this engine to be over-built for street rod use. Tuning or maintenance is not covered under the warranty. Tuning includes jetting or adjusting the carb, readjusting the rockers should it be needed. Tuning would also include changing out plugs to optimize temp range for your needs. Setting ignition timing is also considered tuning. You must check the timing on this engine before it is driven. If you are not satisfied with the cam, or intake choice you have made we will exchange any of these items not including labor or shipping. The cam and intakes swap will cost no upgrade on pricing if done within the first 60 days. Should any serious problems occur with the engine that are to be covered by warranty we would want the engine returned to us. Keep the crate your engine came in for as long as possible as this would allow for a safe return. Any damage due to detonation or extreme abuse will not be covered by the warranty. To date of this article we have sold over 600 engines, and have only had 2 serious warranty claims, and approx. 6 minor repairs such as oil leaks, intake vac. or coolant seepage, and lifter failure on a couple occasions. On the other hand we have had two destroyed engines sent back to us that experienced extreme detonation. The proof of detonation damage is highly evident upon removal of the cyl. heads. We also had a severely damaged engine returned that experienced cylinder wash-down caused from an excessively rich fuel mixture or possibly faulty carb. This engine was sold as a non-turn-key setup, and the customer used an old faulty carb that we did not sell them. The pistons were destroyed, rings, and cyl. wall finish was damaged. All in all, we are surprised more people have not had more problems caused from faulty tuning. You can be off the mark on your tuning up to a certain point, and not cause problems. It s when the tunning is off to an extreme that problems happen quickly. There are many telltales to when your tuning is off. Educate your self on the correct way your engine should be tuned and what these telltales signs are, and you will never have a problem. Always feel free to give us a call if you have a question about tuning.

You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by competitive racing or from improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem. The carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values are to be in the recommended safe zone. Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburation.

Tuning, Maintenance, and break-in             

It is mandatory that this engine be broke in with an oil especially designed for brand new high performance engines. This type of oil is to be ran regardless if the engine was dyno tuned or not. The break-in oil should be ran for approximately 300-400 miles. We feel that the life of the engine can be greatly extended if you follow this procedure, and performance can also be improved if the engine is broke in properly. After the break in period, you must run a high quality race grade oil that has the zinc additive formulated in the oil. There are many brands on the market, and most are available in synthetic grade for those who prefer. Do wait till you have ran non synthetic racing oil for at least 1000 miles to assure the rings have seated completely. Rather than using mileage as an indicator of ring sealing, it would be better to use oil consumption as a guide. Our personal preference of oil is, Driven Racing Oil, also known as, Joe Gibbs Racing oil. This brand of oil has an exceptional reputation, and is used by many performance engine builders. You don t have to run their off road grade of racing oil. The street/strip grades are suitable. The 10w-40 BR series for break-in and the 10w-30 HR is suitible for use after the break-in period. There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Do bear in mind that racing oil is to be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal. Never add any type additives to racing oil. These types of oil have exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil for many reasons. The anti foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and you may think this is only benificial to flat tappet cams, but you would be very wrong. There are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.

 If you are running a mechanical fuel pump on our engine, then it becomes an absolute must that you follow the oil guide lines in this article to the letter. We prefer that you run an electric fuel pump on this engine due to the higher than normal eccentric cam lobe failure rate experienced with engines running a mechanical fuel pump. The high volume mechanical fuel pumps put an additional strain on the eccentric cam lobe. Coupled with the possibility that modern roller cam technology may not be addressing the eccentric cam lobe design like it once was years ago. They may not be addressing it simply because very few people are running mechanical fuel pumps anymore, and the roller cams and lifters do not require these special treatments. Modern oils further the problem due to the absence of high levels of the zinc compounds they once had. All or even some of these factors combined can spell doom for the eccentric cam lobe in these engines. If you insist on running a mechanical fuel pump, then using a race grade oil becomes essential. To further protect the cam, we offer a very special fuel pump rod made from an ultralight material. They re made from a proprietary blended, carbon reinforced, bearing-grade polymer. This fuel pump rod only weighs 25 grams, and is very strong yet gentle on the eccentric cam lobe. Not to be mistaken for the common light weight hollow rod on the market. This rod is half the weight of those, and a bit more costly. By reducing the reciprocating mass of the fuel pump rod, the load on the eccentric cam lobe is greatly reduced. 

 If you consider that fact that early style engines back in the mechanical fuel pump days had very low volume fuel pumps on them, max engine rpm was usually around 4500, and oils were loaded with zinc additives to protect these parts, it s easy to see why they worked so well. That s not the case anymore, so please follow the recommendations in this article.

 The best oil filters to use would be AC Delco, K&N, Moroso, or any of the high quality oil filters on the market. Beware that some K&N filters have a very low micron rating, and we don t recommend them. All oil filters have a micron particle rating. If you want to run a low micron rated oil filter during the break-in period then that would be acceptable, but do not run the engine at high rpm during this break-in period with a low micron oil filter. The filtration on these type oil filters is high but the restriction is also very high and can reduce oil flow to a great extent when running at wide open throttle. We have seen some filters rated at up to 61 micron size, and this would be a great filter to run at the track, but we find it s micron rating much to high to run on the street in our opinion. Filters in the micron range of around 20-25 would offer the best overall protection and not interfere with oil flow/pressure to any great extent. The AC Delco and K&N are known for having a very strong case on them and this is very desirable if you have purchased one of our engines with a Dart block. The Dart block has a priority main oiling system, and pressure in the oil filter can be very high. You must always allow the engine to warm up completely before any hard acceleration. It will be more important than you already know, let me explain. The forged pistons that we use are not made from the low expansion 4032 alloy materiel as most street forged pistons are made from. Ours are all made from 2618 Aircraft alloy. This type of alloy has a greater amount of expansion and is somewhat loose in the bore until fully warmed up, but not as much as some of the all out race pistons are, but none the less they are a bit looser. So let the engine warm up before doing any all out acceleration. It s not a problem to start up and go with it cold, but at a below normal driving pace for about 8-10 min or longer. You must run a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue it will be required that you can prove you have this. You can t just guess at it. Even with a tach, there is no way you can control your engine speed all the time when running hard. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom of not having to watch the tach, and drive at the same time. Every car in the world from the factory has this feature and for good reason. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection. 

 You must run a crankcase ventilation system to pull the exhaust gasses from the crankcase. Usually the pcv system will work, but due to the erratic engine air speed, they may not work so well. Depending on the cam, cyl heads, and intake this can vary on how well it will work. The absolute best system to use in our opinion is an exhaust evac system that is fed into the collector of your headers. Run one at least or one on each side is even better. They will gently pull gasses from the crankcase at all times at a smooth consistent flow. Your engine rings will seat faster, and much better. One other benefit from using an exhaust evac system is the reduction of oil leaks. Excessive crankcase pressure is the cause of many oil leaks. We now offer the exhaust evac system or the pcv system with this engine. You will have your choice of what type vent system you want with this engine. If you have chose to run the conventional pcv system it may affect your warranty regarding oil seepage. See the details on the two systems offered

One more thing we want to mention on engine break-in, as far as ring seating is concerned. As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed. Get the car on the road soon as possible, and run the engine in a somewhat aggressive mode, not exceeding 4,500 rpm. Drive safely please, not asking you to drive fast or aggressively, just keep your engine under load more than normal. Drive it in a very inefficient manor so to speak. Keeping the engine with load against it, and bringing the rpm up and back down will seat the rings much better and faster. It is said that this allows the rings to be expanded out in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls. This will establish an even wear pattern on the cylinder walls. This is a well known fact. For the last forty years I ll bet I ve heard my father say a dozen times, "you got to exercise a new engine", further explaining that it had to work somewhat hard in the beginning. I never really knew if that was just a so called myth or what, until many years later, I bought a new Dodge Viper, and the owner’s manual said to not run the engine at a sustained cruise for the first five hundred miles, but to vary the engine speed frequently, in other words, "exercise the engine" as my father put it. Then I have also heard it from many race engine builders that one of the reasons they dyno many race engines was not just for tuning, but to put a good handful of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will seat the rings in to a great degree very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently cripple the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls. If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine then ring seating will be optimally established. This does not mean that your engine is ready for a synthetic racing oil should you desire to do so. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 500 or more miles of driving. Dyno tuning does seat the rings in to much greater degree and much faster than any type of actual driving on the street would. 

CarburationTiming, Spark plug recommendation.

You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct. We strongly recommend that you purchase a fuel to air ratio monitor. If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door. If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly. A tad on the rich side is not a problem, and can help resist detonation, a tad on the lean side will make the most power, and increase fuel mileage. The air to fuel ratio numbers that are optimal would be around 13.5:1 Set total timing at 32-35 Total timing refers to the reading at 3500-4000 rpm. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing. The closer to the low side of the total timing, the safer your engine will be. Do not use the vac. advance on any of our engines. It will not function as it was intended due to erratic, low air speed at idle and mid range rpm. You will not have a problem with how the engine runs without it. Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller. These are priceless and will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting. Should you ever hear valve clatter or pinging as it s called at any time, reduce, (retard) the timing just enough to eliminate it. Timing that is set just below valve clatter will allow the engine to run at its strongest, and if you pull an additional degree or two out, it will be in a safer mode from detonation, and you will notice that the engine accelerates, not faster, but smoother, with less of a short winded tight feel to it. If you set the timing to low, the engine will run very poorly and not idle properly. Here are a few factors that determine the need for reduced timing below peak power, very high outside temp, heavy weight cars or trucks, lower octane fuels, such as 91 vs 93 never run regular regardless of how much you have reduced the timing. It won t be enough! You may have had an old car in the past that pinged and clattered for years, and didn t seem to hurt it, (actually it did in many other ways), was because it was a very low compression engine. Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping for very long, and you will lose the engine from detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly. As for spark plugs we recommend the Autolite brand, part number Autolite 3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine. Racing grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Whatever brand you use, we like to keep the temp range in the low to middle range. Use a plug that s too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition, use a plug that s too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start. There are many exceptions to the rules on this but if you can get by with a colder plug then run it by all means. Some of our engines come with spark plugs in them depending on what package you purchased. We did at one time use the Autolite 5224. We find that particular plug to be higher in temp range than is needed, and have now changed over to the Autolite 3923 part number. You may also use NGK part # NGK 4544, for a plug that is one step lower in heat range compared to the Autolite. You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It s more to do with heat range than any other factor about the plug. There are many factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do in determining what temp range to run. As mentioned, run the coldest plug you can get by with. A very slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, and possibly difficulty in starting but you can also experience issues much more serious when running plugs with high temp ranges. Keep the engine temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it s consistent, and not climbing. Get the temp down if possible, but don t worry if you can t get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950 never too far below this. If your carburetor is not functioning correctly it can ruin your engine. If your carburetor is more than two steps down from the recommended size, it can cause an imbalance in the fuel to air ratio. Never let the engine idle for excessive long periods during the beak-in period. Do not overfill with engine oil. A slight amount less than normal is better than to much in most cases. When setting the carb choke it is highly recommended that it be set on mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to it s full straight up position quick as possible. Keep backing it off till cold starting becomes difficult. If the choke is setup on the aggressive side it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine as we see it. If you feel you can get by without a choke then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs of today actually do well with very little or no choke at all. A few pumps of the throttle, and a bit of feathering of the throttle will have you off and going smoothly in most cases with very little or no choking at all. 

Valve Train Maintenance

If your engine has a hydraulic roller cam it will require very little, if any, maintenance. I personally like to check the rocker arms on a new engine after a few outings just to be sure all is okay. Use your ears for unusual sounds as this is the best indicator of problems or the need for adjustment. It is strongly recommended that you find a competent street rodder to adjust or check this out. Most modern day mechanics are not familiar with this procedure. Every couple years it is advisable to remove the intake and inspect the complete roller lifter setup, as well as the pushrod ends, and rocker seats and valve tips. Also check for broken outer or inner springs. Hydraulic roller setups are virtually maintenance free more or less and very long lived.

You may wonder why we have been so extensive on the above information. It is because we have had many customers that have bought our engines, and did not know any of the above. Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do s and don ts is asking for problems. My suggestion is to join a couple of good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information that is very good on anything you want to know, or need to know about, but beware of those on forums that think they know it all, and really know very little. Explore the subject you want to know about from several sources, and read between the lines.

Enough Said, Skip White

VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE

This engine does not come with oil in it. All oil has been drained as this is required by any and all of the shipping companies we use. We prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for the presence of metal particles. We use a System One reusable filter on the engine during test running or dynoing. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris, but to prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet we re-install a new medium length regular spin-on oil filter. You must prime this oil filter. It is common not to do this procedure when changing oil on a well broke-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing oil, and we seem to have no problems, but do not even attempt this on your new engine that has been sitting around for weeks if not months, and has very little run time on it. You may replace the oil filter that comes on the engine with one that you prefer, but do opt for the medium length version, as these help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version. If your engine has our Champ stock appearance pan on it, fill with approx 5 qts. If you have the extended capacity Champ pan with kick outs then you will use approx. 8 qts of oil. Just remember to fill/prime the oil filter with oil before starting the engine. 

Note from our company president, Skip White


We have been very selective on the choice of parts used in our New Stage 4.0 421 and 5.0 427 engine. Many sellers will offer lower cost engines, and we have found most of these engines to be substandard in our opinion.  Many sellers are willing to take the risk to maximize profits and/or offer an engine at a very appealing price to maximize sales volume. The cost of a failed engine is not of their concern. We know where to draw the line on low cost products but keeping in mind that the product must be affordable for those with limited funds. All of our engines run the Scat Competition Series rods with huge ARP 7/16 cap screws. The 421-427 engines have an additional ugrade concerning the rod bolts. We opt for the ARP-2000 bolts versus the ARP-8740 s. This cost us an additional $75.00 but increases the rods pull-apart rating to a very high level. The flexplate was another item we have upgraded, and the additional money spent on this item was very little. It amazes me that other sellers will offer the oe style thin grey colored flexplates with single welded ring gears, when the Heavy duty version is only approx. $18.00 more. Our timing components are also a huge upgrade compared to the lower cost versions offered by most other street rod engine builders. As for our damper, we have seen many on the market that certainly fail to meet our standards, not to mention look very poor in appearance. Our 421/427 engines all come with a true SFI rated damper. Last but not least is our choice of the Dart racing block. These blocks are well known to be used in engines producing over 800 horsepower. The best part of these blocks is that they require no modification to live where the early style blocks once lived. Dart kept all mounting positions the same as GM including the ability to use any early style transmission on the market.

I have reviewed other similar 421/427 engines on the market, and find them overpriced considering what parts are used in them. The failures experienced by many who choose these low quality engines is very high. May we point out that they are most likely using an OE GM 400 block.  Those blocks were built as far back as 1971 and no later than 1976. They were very poorly designed in more ways than one, and when built to hp levels above stock they become highly susceptible to failure. Overheating is common and near impossible to control. The cylinder walls are thin when bored to 30 over, and when bored beyond that they are living on a prayer. Stroking the oe style GM 400 block with a 3.875 crank will comprosises the stuctural integrity to a great amount, and the result is block flex to a very high degree. The decks are also very weak when decked to accommodate any of the off the shelf pistons on the market or it is possible they have left the deck on the tall side, and have the pistons sitting about .015-.020 in the hole, and that is a very poor way to build an engine, (no quench/squish zone). The original equipment GM 400 blocks will not hold up well at all when built to high hp levels, and drove on the street. This is only one of the problems we see with the many low cost 421/427 engines on the market, but it is the most serious one. The build sheet they present in their adds shows nothing more than a concoction of extreme low end mismatched parts. The machine work or may I say, "lack of" on many of the blocks used may also pose a problem. Most all of the similar engines on the market fail to say exactly what is used in their engines. You may notice them make mention of the hard parts, but never do they mention anything about items such as oil pumps, gaskets, timing chain model, piston rings, hardware, etc other than brand. Most of the items used in these engines are the lowest cost items in existence. The smaller items used in our engines are certainly not the lowest cost version on the market for sure, but not to be misleading it would be fair to say they are the middle ground, or better. This is why I feel it necessary to mention all of the items used in our engine, as I feel they are what is going to make the difference in performance, reliability and longevity. If you want to make a true comparison, then you should request a full build sheet including brand and the actual part number or description of such items. Our tech support line is 423-722-5152 or email us your questions using the contact tab associated with this add. 

You may have noticed a mechanical fuel pump on the engine in the picture. This engine does not include a fuel pump. We do not want this engine to run on a mechanical fuel pump. This engine is to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A 130-140 gph rated pump should be more than sufficient. If you have chosen the de-tuned version of this engine, then the 110 gph rated pump will suffice. It s best not use a higher capacity fuel pump than required. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. The electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to mechanical system. 

Your engine booklet will include the balance sheet, and other various aspects of this engine such as, cam card, and your invoice that shows your personal selection of the options offered. Misty Moore is in charge of the production of this booklet. We usually mail this out prior to shipping the engine, should you fail to receive this feel free to contact Misty at 423-722-5152    

A final note,

Our eBay user id is: skipwhite, and our eBay store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White" We are the original premier eBay seller under this name since approximately 2002. We have no other eBay names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. 

Email us for shipping cost for overseas delivery. We have excellent sources for low cost shipping anywhere in the world 

WE OFFER GREAT DISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING. YOU PAY THE FULL SHIPPING FEE ON THE HIGHEST SHIPPING COST OF YOUR GROUP OF ITEMS, AND HALF PRICE SHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS. FEW OFFER DISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING SUCH AS THIS. EMAIL US USING THE ASK SELLER A QUESTION TAB, IF YOU WOULD LIKE US TO CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPING COST ON MULTIPLE ITEM ORDERS. IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO EMAIL US GIVE US A CALL AT 423-722-5152 FROM 8AM-6PM EASTERN TIME MON-FRI AND 11AM-3PM ON SAT. WE WILL ANSWER YOUR EMAIL WITHIN THE SAME DAY IN MOST CASES, SO KEEP SHOPPING AND PAY HALF PRICE SHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS. PLEASE CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPING CORRECTLY, TO AVOID DELAYS IN SHIPPING YOUR ITEMS.

IF YOU ARE HAVING DIFFICULTY PAYING WITH PAYPAL, FEEL FREE TO GIVE US A CALL AT 423-722-5152 . CUSTOMER SERVICE AND SALES HOURS OF OPERATION ARE 8AM-8PM Mon-Fri and 10AM-3PM SAT. 

FOR TECH SUPPORT, PLEASE USE THE, "ASK SELLER A QUESTION TAB". IT S LOCATED AT THE TOP RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THIS PAGE. YOU MAY ALSO CALL FOR TECH SUPPORT IF YOUR UNABLE TO EXPLAIN WHAT YOU NEED IN AN EMAIL. TECH SUPPORT IS USUALLY NOT AVAILABLE TILL AROUND 10-6 MON-FRI.

We have now included a flat rate shipping fee on this engine for the 48 state USA This rate only applies to delivery to a business with the capability to unload the engine without the use a lift gate. You must have a dock or fork lift. We can have the engine delivered to a residential with lift gate service but at an additional cost. You engine will be in a crate on a pallet, and you will receive a roll around engine cradle, at no additional cost. The value of the engine cradle is approx. $49.00 Your engine will also be fully insured. You are welcome to come pickup your engine in person, and delete the shipping cost. Should you decide to come in, you will be welcome to take a tour of our facility.

Pay with your credit card through PayPal, or call us at 877-383-5152 OR 423-722-5152 
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This video is of our company race car owned and operated by Skip White. The engine in the car at the time this video was made is our Stage Three 400 engine. It would be fair to say that our 421 engine would have ran far better than the 400 engine that in the car at the time of this video. We will soon be putting the 421/427 in the car and hope to produce an et time of around 9.85



Below is a tutorial on the proper way to remove the engine from it s crate. It is very important that you save your engine crate for as long as possible should it be needed to return the engine to us for any reason. When the engine arrives be sure to check the crate for any damage. If you notice any damage to the crate, then be sure to make note of this on the sign off sheet that the driver will ask you to sign, and do take pictures while the driver is present if possible. Should a damage claim have to be made, this will make the process very easy for us. We have made this engine crate nearly indestructible but some freight companies have still managed to damage our engines so remember to inspect the crate when it arrives, and do take pictures if you notice any damage.



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