CHEVY SBC 350 355 STAGE 1.0 CRATE MOTOR ENGINE, ROLLER CAM 435 HP BASE ENGINE
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SBC CHEVY STAGE 1.0 355 CUBIC INCH ENGINE 425 HP STREET ROD SETUP. RUNS ON MID-GRADE PUMP GAS. WISECO FORGED PISTONS AND SCAT CRANK & RODS, NKB ALUMINUM HEADS. HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM.
Pictured below is our base 355 engine with the single plane intake.
Introducing our Stage 1.0 355 cid 425 HP engine.
THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE AS SHOWN FROM INTAKE TO OIL PAN.
Two year warranty; see details below.
This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners as it may be referred to.
The horse power numbers were achieved with our cam choice # 1 and with our single plane intake manifold with our Quick Fuel Slayer 750 carb. Our test engine produced right at 425 HP at 6100 RPM; very impressive at that RPM range. We do not recommend the single plane intake on any car that is over approx. 3,250 lbs.
We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
One thing we have noticed on our dyno is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have less top end horsepower, but the torque band is moved down lower in the rpm range considerably. This increase in torque down low is what you want if you're sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.
This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. The electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system.
The build sheet is as follows:
The bare block is a fully machined re-manufactured true GM late model roller block. 1 pc. rear main seal style and designed for street or strip applications. This engine is bored and finish honed. All internals in this engine are 100% brand new.
The compression range will be approx. 10.3:1. This setup will certainly generate the highest horsepower when coupled with our cam choice # 1 or 2. We do not see any problems with a 10.3:1 compression range in light to medium weight cars.
This 4 bolt main bare block used for this engine is an OEM late model GM roller block that has been fully reconditioned/re-manufactured. All machine work has been performed. Mains were line honed, cylinders are bored and torque plate honed, decks have been trued. The rotating assembly and all other parts except the block are 100% brand new. This engine is set up with your choice of several different hydraulic roller cams.
The blocks used for building our Stage 1.0 355 do have four bolt main caps.
These blocks will accept mechanical fuel pumps.
As you can see in the picture above, this is a true roller block for those wanting to upgrade to a roller cam at a later date.
These are 1 pc. rear main seal style.
Mains have been line-honed to factory specs. This important procedure is often skipped, and failure to do this usually results in a short-lived build.
Block has been bored and torque plate honed. The use of a torque plate when honing is a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market don't have this performed.
Block has been decked to approx. 9.020. It is desirable to keep the deck as thick as possible, so as little as possible has been removed to correct any deviations. Our pistons have a taller than normal compression height. This allows the piston to have a very good quench zone of around .038-.042.
The use of the 1 pc. rear main seal block is highly desirable, as they are highly resistant to leaks. These blocks are all from the roller cam era (approx. 1992-2001). Between 2005 and 2008, we built approximately 900 355 and 383 engines using this exact style of block. We had extremely good results and no failures. Over 50% of them were built as hyd. roller setups, and were putting out around 415-500 HP, depending on piston choice, cam style, and profile.
We never used the early style blocks with 2 pc rear main seal to build engines, as we find them to be far past their prime, and prone to oil leakage.
We do have this engine available in many variations of build levels, (bare block, short block, long block, and turn key). See our other listings.
The 1 pc. rear main seal engine will fit perfectly in cars that have early style 2 pc. rear main seal blocks. There is no difference in the engine mount position. All early style transmission bell housings will mount perfectly to the Gen 2 block. There are many advancements on the late style blocks compared to early style 2 pc. blocks. The cost of rotating assembly parts for 1 pc. rear main seal blocks is the exact same price as the early 2 pc. RMS Gen 1. This is the style block most people are choosing.
As you can see pictured above, the stroker clearancing has been performed at the bottom of each cylinder, as well as the pan rail area. This is not required for the 355 engine, but all of our blocks are done this way, and should you decide to upgrade in the future to a 383 this procedure will not have to be done.
Pictured below is the rotating assembly that comes in this engine.
(file photo, actual parts may vary, see details below)
The photos above and below are file photos. Actual appearance may vary. This picture is to give you an idea of parts used in the rotating assembly portion of this engine. All parts are brand new, first line, unblemished, and balanced in house.
READ THIS LISTING COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BUY ELSEWHERE!
Connecting Rod Specs.
Piston & Ring Specs.
Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.
WISECO FULLY FORGED PISTONS, RATED AT 800+ HP. WISECO PISTONS ARE 100% MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. THEY ARE ONE OF THE HIGHEST RATED PISTON BUILDERS IN THE COUNTRY.
Flat or Dish top pistons will be used depending on Cam selection.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns.
The Wiseco forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They
are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns. We prefer the 2618 alloy over the lower cost 4032 alloy. This alloy may fragment from the effects of detonation and if this happens, it can be very destructive to the engine.
Those types of pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but should never be used in carbureted engines built to high horse power levels.
The forged 2618 alloy piston is much more resistant to the effects of detonation and heat.
Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.
Our custom made pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller on bbc pistons, and .015 taller on sbc pistons, as compared to most all of the catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.
Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of the block. Our goal is set the piston at zero deck (flush with the deck surface). This maintains the deck's thickness, making it much stronger than a block that has been cut down .025. The engine will also run a bit cooler with a thicker deck. It's well known that the deck dissipates much of the built up heat an engine generates. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing without compromising the integrity of the block. On our bbc engines, we actually leave the piston about .003 to .005 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock. Our sbc engines will have the pistons setting right at zero with the deck.
You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only. This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing.
We have built approximately 5000 engines using the Wiseco pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor have there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect.
These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups.
Flat or dish pistons, depending on cam choice. 5.7 or 6.0 inch piston and rod combinations available.
The photos below are file photos of our Wiseco pistons.
HASTINGS HIGH PERFORMANCE MOLY RINGS
The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.
Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft:
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.
Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down to below considerably.
We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.
Our choice of rods are the Scat Pro Stock rods with ARP-8740 cap screws.
We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.
We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name and series of every part used in our engines.
Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.
Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws are used in all our Scat Rods.
PRO RACE BRAND HARMONIC DAMPER, 6.75 DIAMETER INCLUDED.
Pro-Race brand damper is used on all of our engines.
6.75" DIAMETER REDUCED ROTATIONAL MASS, OFFERS EXCELLENT CLEARANCE.
1.52" THICKNESS, 2.38" THICKNESS WITH HUB
BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.
This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer used by most others. We balance the rotating assembly to 2 grams or less. A balance sheet is included with your engine.
Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.
Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
OUR NKB-200 HEADS.
NKB aluminum heads with 200cc runners, 64cc with cnc'd combustion chambers. 2.02/1.60 stainless valves, 1.46 diameter dual roller springs.
Our custom built NKB-200 aluminum heads with 200cc runners, 2.02/1.60 stainless valves, 1.46 diameter dual roller springs. These heads are not built by Procomp, and have no association with them in any way. We have sold over 1200 sets of these heads in the past year, and have seen zero problems. The performance is the best we have seen from a set of 200cc as cast heads.
In the flowchart above, the NKB-200s are superior to the Procomp heads in flow numbers, and also edge out the Dart SHP heads on the intake side. The intake numbers are far more important than the exhaust. The overall average flow numbers on the NKB-200 heads are higher than most any brand of non cnc'd cast aluminum heads on the market. We guarantee the flow numbers to be accurate, as well as the horsepower numbers produced by them.
Most importantly, all three of these heads were tested by the same person, on the same machine, (Superflo bench 1020) using the same testing method, on the same day. These numbers show the true difference between each brand, and that's what counts.
The difference in horsepower and torque generated by these new heads is monumental compared to the Procomp heads.
The difference in horsepower and torque generated by the NKB heads is monumental compared to most all of the low cost sbc heads on the market.
Assembled by us with premium PBM competition grade valves, Comp high performance dual springs, Comp retainers, Comp Viton valve seals, Comp spring ID locators, Comp 10 degree locks.
Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series, and ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.
Comp Cams High Energy Aluminum Roller Rockers.
Delphi Anti Pump up lifters.
We have had a vast amount of experience with the Dehphi hydraulic roller lifters. They are a good quality lifter and work well in our engines.
Howards Brand Chromoly One pc. Pushrods.
Howards brand are the only type of pushrod we use in our engines. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
You have a choice of single or dual plane intake. The single plane intake (1st pic below) should only be used on cars that are very lightweight and have good hood clearance.
Dual Plane Intake shown below. This is a large runner dual plane intake. They make excellent mid range power.
Pictured below is the Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane intake. If you're going with cam choice # 2 and require more bottom end power, we strongly recommend this intake. This intake offers incredible low end response and has excellent hood clearance for those installing this engine in a C3 Corvette with a non-cowl stock hood.
304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
We are offering several cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.
Cam choice #1
PART # 180245-10 This is a roller cam for use in OE roller blocks.
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .500/Exhaust .510
Duration @.050": Intake .225/Exhaust .231
Lobe sep. angle: 110º
PART # 180315-10 This is a roller cam for use in OE roller blocks.
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .465/Exhaust .470
Duration @.050": Intake .209/Exhaust .215
Lobe sep. angle: 110º
The rule of thumb for cam size: the smaller the cam in a given application, the better will be the low end response. One more benefit to the smaller cam is the reduced requirements for lower gearing and higher RPM stall converters. A final gear ratio of 310 would be acceptable with this cam. The bottom end power would be much better with this cam than the two other choices above.
This would be the only choice for running an overdrive transmission such as the 700R4 cruising at around 2,000 RPM in overdrive. A stall converter of 2,200 would be the minimum for this cam.
Do not choose the single plane Hurricane intake with this cam, as it would be totally impractical. Valve train life is extended greatly with this cam as compared to the others, and drivability is at its best. Low and mid throttle response is very strong. This cam choice will also produce the greatest amount of vacuum at idle compared to those listed above.
If you need help in selecting a cam to suit your needs, feel free to contact our tech. department.
THE TWO CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD.
We have had a few customers who wanted to run this engine in a very heavy vehicle such as a 3/4 ton or 1 ton dually, 4x4 quad cab truck, or Chevy Suburban. These vehicles weigh approx. 6,000 lbs or more. Even if you don't plan to do any towing or hauling heavy items, none of the three cams listed would be suitable for this.
We do have cams for such applications.
A tall gear would be acceptable with this setup, but some cars came equipped with a 273 final gear. This gear came into use in the mid 70's during the fuel crisis. This gear should not be used with any street rod engine. The tallest gear that should be used would be the more common 307.
If you're running a T350 trans, the tall gear would also allow for a decent highway cruising RPM range. If I were to choose this cam and had a medium to heavy car, I would go with a 323 to have decent off the line acceleration and comfortable highway cruising. You would still want the engine to run at approx. 1,800-2,000 RPM during highway cruising speed to keep the engine from loading up with carbon.
Pictured below are some of our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost for your engine.
The satin covers below are by far the most popular.
RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.
Timing components: SA Gear 8999T billet double roller timing set.
Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.
We use the top of the line SA Gear timing set with a torrington bearing and rolon chain. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common low-cost timing set. The upper sprocket is made from billet steel and the lower is induction hardened with nine keyways. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.
The cost on this high end timing set is approx $97.50, more than double the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others.
This timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.
Champ premium oil pan.
Pictured below is the oil pan included with this engine. The Champ oil pan used on this engine has a 5 qt. capacity. It has an elaborate oil control system. Features windage tray, crank scraper, .055 gauge outer shell. Champ oil pans are made in the USA. All of our engines will come with the Champ oil pan. We also offer the 7 qt Champ pan as an optional upgrade.
We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4th of a quart. Doing this may reduce the chance of oil leaks and reduce oil temps. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines. The higher capacity 7 quart oil pan is an optional upgrade on some of our engines.
To be clear on what we're saying, we would like to see you add right at 6.75 quarts of oil grand total in your engine and oil filter when using the higher capacity oil pan. When using the stock appearing oil pan, we would like to see you add right at 4.75 quarts grand total in your engine and oil filter.
Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark.
We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.
Pictured below is a file photo. The actual Felpro gasket used will be the correct model for this application.
Studded Mini Nut Set.
We use our premium studded mini nut set on all of our oil pans and valve covers. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan and valve covers to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other engine builders. Our standard engine color is black. Custom paint work on engine blocks and oil pans is available as an optional upgrade. The pictures above and below are file photos to display the studded mini nuts. Other items seen in these pictures may not represent your actual engine.
Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.
The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE
If you purchase a starter from us you will have to install it. There is no way for us to properly shim the starter (should it be needed) while the torque converter and transmission are not installed. The flexplate will change position when the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate. Some flexplates have a slight amount of run-out/warpage when the trans. and torque converter are not connected to it. This makes correct starter installation difficult. Only when you have the torque converter mounted to the flexplate can you properly install and adjust the starter.
Suggestion: While the engine is out of the car, still mounted on the engine stand, bolt up your torque converter to the flexplate. This will flatten out the flexplate to a great degree. Then, mount your starter on the engine. This is the only time you will have a birds eye view of the starter gear and ring gear from the back of the engine. You can see ifthe proper amount of mesh is there.
It's possible that once the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate, the position of the ring gear may move a slight bit more. The transmission shaft centers up to the torque converter, and this causes the flexplate to further change shape slightly. This may alter your initial starter adjustment, and if it does, you may need to do a light adjustment once the transmission is installed.
If your engine is equipped with a manual trans. flywheel, there is no torque converter involved, and installing the starter with the engine on the stand and establishing ring gear clearance is a must. There is no need to bolt on the clutch pressure plate. The thick flywheel is flat and true without anything bolted onto it.
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
We offer this engine with selected upgrades. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value. Most of these upgrades are low in cost considering the benefits they offer.
The Super Flow is the best dyno in the industry.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING
For those with very heavy vehicles, such as 4x4 ex cab or quad cab trucks, 3/4 ton trucks, or one ton dually, plus trucks that may do light to medium trailer towing, I strongly recommend the de-tuned version of this engine. We can build this engine with a reduced compression ratio. We offer a special cam for such use at no additional cost if the truck is very heavy or is being used for towing.
None of the cam choices we offer would be suitable for use in a very heavy truck. The intake choice would then have be the dual plane EPS Edelbrock. Single plane intakes do produce more top end horse power than the dual plane version, but they also move the torque band up higher in the RPM range. Our Stage 1.0 engine comes with a three key way timing gear, and we do set it up in the middle, (straight up) position. You may experiment with this at some point to optimize your torque curve.
Ignition timing should be run at 30-32 rather than the more aggressive 33-35 degrees total when running this engine in heavy vehicles. The above changes would help move the torque band down lower in the RPM range. The HP numbers would fall to approx. 405-410 when coupled with our special order cam that has a profile for very heavy vehicles. Setup with such a cam the engine would have a very strong pull up to around 5,200 RPM.
This setup in a very heavy vehicle would be extremely durable, and you may even be able to run a mid-grade fuel as the compression ratio would be slightly below 10:1, but do this with caution, and listen for detonation (ping and clatter).
For those wanting to run a supercharger, we recommend the extra deep dish -20cc pistons with the 72cc heads regardless of the vehicle.
Our machinists each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is done to exacting specs and with great care. Of course, some vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have. We build many engines that cost upwards of $50,000.00.
We have dyno tested the original setup very extensively. We now include the engine test mule run at no additional cost. The engine is thoroughly tested for leaks, vibration, unusual noises, overall engine sound and feel.
This engine has a Two Year Warranty with unlimited mileage.
Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm.
If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.
There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.
The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.
This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. We believe that the electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system. If you decide to run a high volume mechanical fuel pump on this engine, then you must use the special polymer fuel pump rod, and you must also use a fuel pressure regulator, and gauge, set to approx. 6.0-6.5 psi. Only use engine oils with zinc compounds in them when running a mechanical fuel pump. This will protect the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the camshaft. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Racing oil. See our other listings for this oil.
If you insist on running a mechanical fuel pump, then using a race grade oil becomes essential. To further protect the cam, we offer a very special fuel pump rod made from an ultralight material. It’s made from a proprietary blended, carbon reinforced, bearing-grade polymer. This fuel pump rod only weighs 25 grams, and is very strong yet gentle on the eccentric cam lobe.
Unlike the common light weight hollow rod on the market, this rod is one third the weight, and a bit more costly. By reducing the reciprocating mass of the fuel pump rod, the load on the eccentric cam lobe is greatly reduced. We offer this rod in our other listings.
As for oil filters, we recommend a high quality oil filter. Racing oil filters are excellent.
You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.
We recommend using a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase. The exhaust evac system we recommend is made by Moroso. The benefits are numerous as compared to the typical pcv system. Oil leaks are greatly reduced by using the exhaust evac system.
Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed.
Drive safely please but keep your engine under load more than normal and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern. This is why race engines are dynoed: to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will partially seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls.
If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine, then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for full synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.You should replace the low cost oil filter that comes on the engine with a high quality oil filter, but opt for the medium length version, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version.
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