SBC CHEVY 355 CUBIC INCH TURN KEY ENGINE 415 HORSE POWER.
STREET ROD SETUP.
STAGE 1.5 SERIES, HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM RUNS ON PUMP GAS. FORGED PISTONS AND SCAT RODS, & CRANK, NKB 200cc ALUMINUM HEADS.
Pictured below is our turn key engine with the single plane intake. The second picture further down in the ad shows it with the optional dual plane intake. We also offer these intakes with a polished finish as an upgrade.
Our user id is: skipwhite, and our store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White." We are the original premier seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article in the lower part of this ad for a more detailed explanation
The engine will come with a stock appearing oil pan.
Introducing our Turn Key Stage 1.5 Roller cam 355 cid 415 HP engine.
The detailed build
sheet is at the lower part of this listing, but we felt it important to
summarize a few aspects about some of the parts used in this engine
up front. Many of these parts are on the upper end of the scale as far as
quality goes, considering this engine's price range. The use of such high
quality parts will determine not only the performance, but the endurance and
reliability expected. An example of such parts used would be our Genuine Scat
9000 series crank with an HD flexplate and Pro-Race brand damper, Scat rods with ARP cap screws, forged Wiseco pistons made from 2618 aircraft alloy, Comp aluminum roller rockers, USA made, Howards brand 4130 chromoly pushrods, PBM race series valves, and Comp Cams retainers, id locators, and 10 degree valve locks, ARP rocker studs and oil pump stud. Our engine builders all have a
minimum of 20-35 years experience building very high level engines. Our machinery is the most advanced on the market. Our company
founder, Skip White, is also very knowledgeable on the proper combination of
parts used to maximize drivability, performance, and reliability to suit your
individual needs. We seldom ever have
serious problems with the engines we build.
We know for a fact
that most, if not all, of the similar priced engines on the market use very few,
if any, of the higher end parts in their engines. Could it be possible that the
higher end parts are not actually needed
and their use is nothing more than "overkill?" We
think not, considering we do try to keep costs down to make our engines profitable
Past experience tells
us the use of these above average parts is very important if you
want maximum performance, durability and reliability. Some lower cost
parts used in many engines often fail early on, and perform poorly. So, please make a true comparison before making your
decision on such an important purchase.
Continue reading for
the full description of this engine.
This engine is designed for street/strip use. Pump gas friendly.
THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE AS SHOWN FROM CARBURETOR TO OIL PAN. ACCEL 5000 SERIES PREMIUM PLUG WIRES ARE INCLUDED BUT NOT INSTALLED.
Pictured below shows the engine with the dual plane intake manifold. Polished finish also available as an upgrade.
Two year warranty; see details below.
This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners as it may be referred to.
The dyno numbers produced on our base engine were created with our cam choice # 1 and a single plane intake manifold with a Quick Fuel carburetor. Our test engine produced right at 415 HP at 5800-5900 RPM; very impressive at that RPM range.
Here are a few good reasons why we think the 355 Stage 1.5 engine is an excellent choice when compared to any of the stock GM 350 engines that came in most classic Chevy's.
1. Decent drivability and generating up to 415 HP. Horsepower will vary, depending on cam, carb and intake choice. You have three different cams to choose from, and two styles of intake manifold. Flat or dish pistons are available, but we recommend staying with the piston volume size that we match up with your cam choice.
2. Longevity, reliability and low maintenance. You don't have to turn the engine to a critical RPM range to produce its max HP output. There's nothing unsafe about running an engine that's well built, like this, up to 6,200 RPM. The hydraulic roller cam is very reliable. Our aluminum heads use very high quality hardware.
3. 355 engines are known to be very fuel-efficient when set up properly.
We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
As of 9/15/2013, we completed installation of our brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. In the past, we outsourced our dyno work. We were unable to do the research and development we truly wanted, and this prompted us to make the $105,000.00 investment. It's been one of the best investments we have ever made. Every aspect of our engines can now be monitored, calibrated, and tuned. Best of all, we can now see what combos generate the best power, with consideration to drivability.
Update, as of 4/20/2016, we now have a second brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. The new Super Flow dyno has very advanced electronics, and this dyno is what is used on our sbc engines for research and development.
One thing we have noticed on our dyno is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have less top end horsepower, but the torque band is moved down lower in the rpm range considerably. This increase in torque down low is what you want if you're sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.
The build sheet is as follows:
The bare block is a fully machined re-manufactured true GM late model roller block. 1 pc. rear main seal style and designed for street or strip applications. All internals and external items in this engine are 100% brand new.
The compression range will be approx. 10.3:1 or less, depending on cam choice. This setup will certainly generate the highest horsepower when coupled with our cam choice # 1 or 2. We do not see any problems with a 10.3:1 compression range in light to medium weight cars. For those choosing cam choice 3, we will lower the compression ratio slightly. The lower compression is all that's needed with the smaller cam, and this further increases resistance against detonation to a great extent. Fuel requirements can be lowered to mid grade 89-91 octane with the reduced compression, but do also consider the many other factors that increase the need for octane, such as outside temps, altitude, ignition timing, vehicle weight, gearing, payload, etc. We would prefer that you use premium fuel regardless of what setup you choose. We're more or less on the thin line between mid-grade and premium fuel requirements with the reduced compression setup.
This 4 bolt main bare block used for this engine is an OEM late model GM roller block that has been fully reconditioned/re-manufactured. The rotating assembly and all other parts except the block are 100% brand new. This engine is set up with your choice of several different hydraulic roller cams.
The blocks used for building our Stage 1.5 roller cam 355 do have four bolt main caps.
These blocks will accept mechanical fuel pumps.
As you can see in the picture above, this is a true roller block.
Listed below are all the machining procedures performed on this block. These are 1 pc. rear main seal style.
Mains have been line-honed to factory specs. This important procedure is often skipped, and failure to do this usually results in a short-lived build.
Block has been bored and torque plate honed. The use of a torque plate when honing is a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market don't have this performed.
Block has been decked to approx. 9.020. It is desirable to keep the deck as thick as possible, so as little as possible has been removed to correct any deviations. Our pistons have a taller than normal compression height (1.140). This allows the piston to have a very good quench zone of around .038-.042. total including head gasket.
Most catalog pistons sit much lower in the block, and this may be desirable when used in old blocks that have had the deck milled down many times. When installing such pistons in blocks that have a near stock deck height, the quench zone is very poor. We had our pistons custom made to address this issue. Keeping the quench tight not only makes more power, but protects the engine from detonation to a much greater extent than a loose quench/squish zone.
The use of the 1 pc. rear main seal block is highly desirable, as they are highly resistant to leaks. These blocks are all from the roller cam era (approx. 1992-2001). Between 2005 and 2008, we built approximately one thousand 383 engines using this exact style of block. We had extremely good results and no failures. Over 50% of them were built as hyd. roller setups, and were putting out around 415-503 HP, depending on piston choice, cam style, and profile.
The advancements on the late roller blocks are many compared to the early style blocks. The only reason we stopped building the 383's with these blocks had to do with core availability. We never used the early style 1pc. rms non-roller blocks or 2 pc rms style to build engines, as we find them to be far past their prime.
We are now offering a flat rate shipping fee on this item, see details below. We do have this engine available in many variations of build levels, (bare block, short block, long block, and turn key). See our other listings.
The 1 pc. rear main seal engine will fit perfectly in cars that have early style 2 pc. rear main seal blocks. There is no difference in the engine mount position. All early style transmission bell housings will mount perfectly to the Gen 2 block. There are many advancements on the late style blocks compared to early style 2 pc. blocks. The cost of rotating assembly parts for 1 pc. rear main seal blocks is the exact same price as the early 2 pc. RMS Gen 1. This is the style block most people are choosing.
As you can see pictured above, the stroker clearancing has been performed at the bottom of each cylinder, as well as the pan rail area. This procedure was performed on a cnc machine for absolute accuracy and consistency. We have noticed some machine shops butcher these areas in the block.
Pictured below is the rotating assembly that comes in this engine.
(file photo, actual parts may vary, see details below)
The photos above and below are file photos. Actual appearance may vary. This picture is to give you an idea of parts used in the rotating assembly portion of this engine. All parts are brand new, first line, unblemished, and balanced in house.
READ THIS LISTING COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BUY ELSEWHERE!
- Crankshaft: Genuine Scat
- Crankshaft Stroke: 3.48"
- Crankshaft Material: Cast Nodular
- Journal Diameter: STD SBC
- Rear Main Seal: 1pc RMS
Connecting Rod Specs.
- Rods: Genuine Scat
- Rod Type: Scat I-beam, Bronze Bushed.
- Rod Length: 5.7
- Rod Material: Forged 4340 Alloy.
- Rod Bolt/Cap Screw: ARP 8740 Cap Screws.
Piston & Ring Specs.
- Pistons: Wiseco Fully Forged. High Performance for street/strip use.
- Piston Size: 4.030"
- Dome Volume: FLAT TOP. Comp. ratio calculates out to approx. 10.3:1
- Piston Material: Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy
- Piston Rings: Mahle High Performance, Moly, Standard Tension.
- Ring Size and Fit: 5/64 5/64 5/64.
- Ring Material: Cast/Stainless/Moly
Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.
- Main Bearings: King
- Rod Bearings: King
- Balance: In House on CWT balancer.
- Damper: Pro-Race brand 6.75"
- Flexplate: Heavy Duty SFI 168 tooth or 153 tooth. Manual Trans. flywheels available.
WISECO FULLY FORGED PISTONS, RATED AT 800+ HP. WISECO PISTONS ARE 100% MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. THEY ARE ONE OF THE HIGHEST RATED PISTON BUILDERS IN THE COUNTRY.
Flat or Dish top pistons will be used depending on Cam selection.
Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.
Our custom made pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller on bbc pistons, and .015 taller on sbc pistons, as compared to most all of the catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.
Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of the block. Our goal is set the piston at zero deck (flush with the deck surface). This maintains the deck's thickness, making it much stronger than a block that has been cut down .025. The engine will also run a bit cooler with a thicker deck. It's well known that the deck dissipates much of the built up heat an engine generates. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing without compromising the integrity of the block. On our bbc engines, we actually leave the piston about .003 to .005 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock. Our sbc engines will have the pistons setting right at zero with the deck.
You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only. This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing.
We have built approximately 5000 engines using the Wiseco pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor have there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect.
These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups.
The Wiseco forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They
are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns. We prefer the 2618 alloy over the lower cost 4032 alloy. This alloy may fragment from the effects of detonation and if this happens, it can be very destructive to the engine.
Those types of pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but should never be used in carbureted engines built to high horse power levels.
The forged 2618 alloy piston is much more resistant to the effects of detonation and heat.
Flat or dish pistons, depending on cam choice.
The photos below are file photos of our Wiseco pistons.
MAHLE RINGS INCLUDED.
The Mahle rings have a reduced tension bottom ring.
The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.
Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft:
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.
Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down to below considerably.
KING MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS FOR CHEVY 305 350 383 ENGINES
Our choice of rods are the Scat Pro Stock rods with ARP-8740 cap screws.
We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.
We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name and series of every part used in our engines.
Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.
Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws are used in all our Scat Rods.
PRO RACE BRAND HARMONIC DAMPER, 6.75 DIAMETER INCLUDED.
Pro-Race brand damper is used on all of our engines.
6.75" DIAMETER REDUCED ROTATIONAL MASS, OFFERS EXCELLENT CLEARANCE.
1.52" THICKNESS, 2.38" THICKNESS WITH HUB
BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.
This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer used by most others. We balance the rotating assembly to 2 grams or less. A balance sheet is included with your engine.
Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.
Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
NKB 64cc 200cc ALUMINUM HEADS
Our new NKB-200 heads have been designed especially for us. After receiving many recommendations from our engine builders, we came up with the best quality, best flowing heads on the market relative to cost. The only way you're going to get a set of heads that flow as well or better will be to spend at least double the cost or more. We have installed these heads on all of our 355, 383 and 406 engines for the past three years. Many of these engines were dynoed on our new Superflo dyno. The engines had every possible combination of cam, intake and carb. The results have been amazing. These heads are excellent in design and quality. Our choice of hardware and precision assembly also contribute to the performance and reliability of the heads.
In the flowchart below, the NKB-200s are superior to the Procomp heads in flow rates, and also edge out the Dart SHP heads on the intake side. The intake numbers are far more important than the exhaust. The overall average flow numbers on the NKB-200 heads are higher than most any brand of non cnc'd cast aluminum heads on the market.
The difference in horsepower and torque generated by the NKB heads is monumental compared to most all of the low cost sbc heads on the market.
Assembled by us with premium PBM race series valves, Comp high performance dual springs, Comp retainers, Comp Viton valve seals, Comp spring ID locators, Comp 10 degree locks.
Comp Cams High Energy Aluminum Roller Rockers.
If you've read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell non branded, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces.
We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.
We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.
We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble.
We use Comp High Energy, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum, Comp Gold Arc, Scorpion Race and Endurance Series rockers in all of our engines. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge.
Delphi Anti Pump up lifters
We have had a vast amount of experience with the Dehphi hydraulic roller lifters. They are a good quality lifter and work well in our engines.
Howards Brand Chromoly One pc. Pushrods.
Howards brand are the only type of pushrod we use in our engines. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
You have a choice of single or dual plane intake. The single plane intake (1st pic below) should only be used on cars that are very lightweight and have good hood clearance.
Dual Plane Intake shown below. This is a large runner dual plane intake. They make excellent mid range power.
Pictured below is the Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane intake. If you require more bottom end power, we strongly recommend this intake. This intake offers incredible low end response and has excellent hood clearance for those installing this engine in a C3 Corvette with a non-cowl stock hood.
304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
We are offering several cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.
Cam choice #1
Special Grind # 33151
PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-11480
111 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Step Nose Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice is the perfect all around setup for those wanting a decent bottom and mid range while still generating excellent power at the top. This setup will generate its peak power at approx. 5700 RPM and this can vary depending on rocker and intake choice. Vacuum is fair with this cam.
If your car is in the medium weight range or up to approx. 4,500 lbs, and you want decent streetability, then this is a good cam choice. You still want to keep the final gear ratio at 3.55 or numerically higher. A stall converter in the 2500 rpm range would be suitable for this setup.
This cam can be paired up with the dual plane EPS Edelbrock intake for greatly improved drivability. The single plane Hurricane can be used, but the dual plane will have much better bottom end and mid range response. This cam will have a lopey idle. The dual plane intake will drop the hp numbers approx. 20-22 but low to mid range torque numbers are greatly increased.
Official Dyno report on our 355 engine coming soon.
Cam choice #2
PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-13436
111 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Step Nose Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice has a lower lift and duration than Cam Choice 1, and is highly recommended for use in heavy cars or full size sport trucks. The low end response and mid-range power with this cam is very good. Vacuum is excellent with this cam.
The rule of thumb for cam size: the smaller the cam in a given application, the better will be the low end response. One more benefit to the smaller cam is the reduced requirements for lower gearing and higher RPM stall converters. A final gear ratio of 3.30 would be acceptable with this cam.
This would be the only cam choice for running an overdrive transmission such as the 700R4 overdrive transmission. A stall converter in the 2000 rpm stall is recommended, especially in heavy vehicles with a tall final gear. If you are running an overdrive transmission, then choose this cam with the 1.5 ratio rockers, and the Edelbrock EPS intake.
Valve train life is greatly extended with this cam choice and drivability is at its best. Low and mid throttle response is very strong. This cam choice will also produce the greatest amount of vacuum at idle compared to Cam Choice 1. You may run power brakes with this cam without any problems. This cam is best paired up with our Edelbrock EPS intake. This particular intake is offered at no extra cost. The EPS intake actually has amazing off idle power compared to any of the larger runner dual plane intakes. This intake is the most practical intake to select when you use this cam. Fuel mileage would be at its best with this cam and the EPS intake. We also run a lower compression piston with this combination, making the engine less prone to detonation.
Official dyno results coming soon.
Carburetor is included with this engine.
Quick Fuel Technology (QFT) has engineered its new Slayer series vacuum secondary street carbs with all the features. The Slayer is not some stripped-down off-shore QFT copy, it features the same QFT race engineering, all-aluminum construction and hand-built quality that goes into all QFT race-winning carburetors.
The Slayer's incredible value is made possible by QFT's new CNC machining centers and the unique design that utilizes a secondary metering plate with changeable jets, eliminating the costly secondary metering block unneeded for most street/strip cars. The majority of fine tuning on a street carburetor is done on the primary side, and the Slayer provides all of the popular options: changeable idle air and high-speed air bleeds, 3-stage emulsion circuits, changeable primary idle feed restrictions and power valve restrictions.
A truly welcomed feature is the QFT QuickSet adjustment on the vacuum secondary diaphragm that provides a quick external twist adjustment without changing springs. Secondary metering can be altered with changeable main jets and the secondary float is also notched for jet extensions.
Additional features are a fully adjustable electric choke, and a semi polished finish that will improve any engine compartment. The Slayer 750cfm (Part # SL-750-VS) features a 1-11/16" throttle bore and a 1.375" venturi.
Using fuel systems that other than what is offered in this engine package, may affect your warranty.
Pictured below are some of our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost for your engine.
The satin covers below are by far the most popular.
RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.
THE RETRO FINNED VALVE COVERS CONTRAST NICELY WITH THE CHROME AND POLISHED ITEMS.
Billet Aluminum Breather set.
If you chose cam choice 1, then we highly recommend using an exhaust evac. system. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using the larger cam, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best. The exhaust evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit of the evac system is that you're not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi-burned byproducts from the engine oil and combustion process.
After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup may be sufficient. However, it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup.
We also offer a vacuum pump system for the ultimate in crankcase pressure control.
If you do decide to use an exhaust evac system, we have a few more recommendations. The bullet style perforated mufflers, like those made by Magnaflow and many other companies, must be used. In our opinion, they sound the best and, most importantly, they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly. Magnaflow is a popular brand of the true straight through mufflers, and there are several other brands on the market such as Corsa, Borla, and Bullet. The sound level is controlled by the length you choose. The 12-16 inch length sounds the best to us. These mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls. They should not be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, which are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound.
Traditional chambered mufflers, like Flowmaster, create a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. system. Chambered mufflers have the reputation of helping bottom end throttle response, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine, especially if you have chosen cam choice 2. In our experience, the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect, and allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. system. More info. on this subject below.
Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.
If your engine is equipped with the optional 7 qt. Champ oil pan, it has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend opting for the stock appearing 5 qt. oil pan.
Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark.
We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.
Pictured below is a file photo. The actual Felpro gasket used will be the correct model for this application.
Studded Mini Nut Set.
We use our premium studded mini nut set on all of our oil pans and valve covers. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan and valve covers to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other engine builders. Our standard engine color is black. Custom paint work on engine blocks and oil pans is available as an optional upgrade. The pictures above and below are file photos to display the studded mini nuts. Other items seen in these pictures may not represent your actual engine.
Melling M55A Oil Pump, with ARP stud.
Pictured below are the front end accessories that are included with this engine. They will be installed on the engine.
High volume satin aluminum water pump with an aluminum impeller.
Stainless Socket head bolts are used to mount the water pump.
Our 120 amp chrome plated one or three wire alternator.
Polished billet aluminum alternator bracket.
Chrome plated power steering pump and bracket with aluminum pulley.
File photos. Actual appearance may vary.
ACCEL 5000 SERIES SUPER STOCK 8mm HIGH TEMP WIRES
UNIVERSAL FOR CUSTOM FIT WITH 90 DEGREE BOOTS, FITS MOST V-8 AND V-6 ENGINES.
FITS HEI STYLE CAP OR POINT STYLE.
CHEVY V-8 SBC AND BBC 65000 VOLT HEI DISTRIBUTOR FOR GEN 1 CHEVY ENGINES.
PART NUMBER 6500-R
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
We offer this engine with selected upgrades. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value. Most of these upgrades are low in cost considering the benefits they offer.
SFI Rated Billet Steel flywheel upgrade/option for manual transmission. Upgrade to a SFI billet steel flywheel 168-tooth or 153-tooth for manual transmissions. We highly recommend the SFI billet steel flywheel for those running hard. These are fully cnc'd and far superior in many ways compared to the regular cast iron flywheel.
Cost for the SFI billet flywheel option is $169.00 We have this upgrade/option featured in our other listings. There will be a Chevy 153 tooth and a Chevy 168 tooth size available. Be sure you know the size you need. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
SFI damper: Offers an extreme level of safety against breakage, and is very resistant against slippage of the elastomer damping material. SFI dampers are not only made from a better grade of steel, they are also constructed differently and have a much better appearance. They usually last much longer than a non-SFI damper. Many drag strips require this on engines producing high horse power levels. The SFI certification is laser etched into the side.
Cost of the SFI damper upgrade is $69.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Race balancing: This is for those who want the engine to operate virtually vibration free at high rpm. Extends engine life and frees up a few more horse power. This is a somewhat labor intensive procedure and is not required, but the feel of an absolutely vibration free engine at high rpm is desirable by many. The standard balance job that is included with this assembly at no extra charge is certainly sufficient. With a race balance job, all pistons and rods are match weighed to within 2/10's of a gram or less, and the final balance is brought down to around 1 gram plus or minus. An ultra smooth engine at high rpm has a noticeable feel and sound to it. If you do not opt for this upgrade, the assembly will still be fully balanced. We spend a good hour and a half doing the regular balance work, and it will certainly meet your needs.
Cost of this race balancing upgrade is $125.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Scat 4340 Forged Crank: The forged Scat crank has a rating of 800+ HP. This is the ultimate upgrade for those wanting to run hard. Nos, blowers, turbos, are not an issue with this crank. Even without such power adders, this Crank offers great protection under the most severe conditions. This upgrade also comes with the HP high Performance King bearings. Should you decide to run power adders in the future, this would be essential. The fatigue life of the 4340 crank over the cast nodular is also greatly extended. We do offer this upgrade as part of many of our assemblies in some of our other listings. They have the key words, "fully forged," in the title.
Cost of this forged crank upgrade is $460.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Polished single plane or dual plane Intake Manifold: This low cost upgrade really adds beauty to the engine for those who like the bright polished look on the engine. This is available on our Single plane or large runner dual plane intake, known as the Eliminator (very similar to the Edelbrock RPM Airgap).
Cost of the polished single or dual intake is $49.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Single plane or dual plane Speedmaster polished intake upgrade, your choice.
MSD STREET FIRE DISTRIBUTOR. The MSD Street Fire HEI distributor is a far superior unit compared the regular HEI unit that comes with this engine. The failure rate is near non existent. We find the advance curve characteristics also to be more in suitable for street rod engines. We have also noticed that the degree span from initial to total timing is a slightly closer, approx. 18 degrees variance. This allows the engine to have more initial timing when operating at low speed without the use of the vacuum advance.
Cost of the MSD is $108.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Fuel Injection System. This has become a very popular upgrade on many of our engines. For those not wanting to deal with the potential quirks of a carburetor, this is the way to go. Drivability becomes greatly improved over a carb. Startup and warm-up are also greatly improved. Tuning stays spot on. These systems make it very easy to tweak the tuning on your engine to better serve your application. Our engine room crew has found the Holley Sniper system to be a very straightforward setup. Some of our customers have requested the Fitech system, and we find them to be an inferior product in many ways to the Holley Sniper system. The customer service offered by Fitech also has been a very poor experience for us. There is no comparison in the way the two systems function, nor in the way they are set up. The Holley system is 100% made in the USA and that is not the case with the Fitech system. The Holley system has a slightly higher cost, but is well worth it, in our very strong opinion. Our company founder, Skip White, stated that he has no problems with running a carb on a street rod engine, but the ability to tune the engine to perfection and the fact that fuel metering is so perfect with the EFI system has changed how he thinks an engine should receive its fuel and air. The difference in drive between the two is vast, to say the least.
Cost for this upgrade is calculated by taking the retail difference between the carburetor that comes with this engine and the retail cost of the Holley Sniper EFI System. This is a great value with many benefits, in our opinion. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Dyno Tuning (Carbureted Engines): This is one of the most important upgrade/options we offer. There are many benefits to this service. The engine is first run at fast idle to bring the water and oil temp up to normal operating temperature. It is then run for approx. 20 minutes under a simulated load at around 3k rpm to promote initial ring seating. After this, the engine is shut down to allow us to check the readings on the spark plugs, and for any possible oil leaks. This cool down is considered part of the engine's first heat cycle. We then follow up with multiple low to medium rpm runs to further the break-in process of all the moving parts in the engine. During these multiple runs, we are paying close attention to the EGT (exhaust gas temp) readings, vacuum pump readings, oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, and overall engine sound. At this point, we start the actual dyno tuning process and this focuses around the air to fuel ratio numbers and what timing numbers produce peak power. We usually have to change carb. jetting several times, adjust the idle circuits, and the air-bleeds occasionally have to be changed. We then establish the engine's full horse power and torque numbers at a given rpm limit.
Having your engine dyno tuned will allow it to run at its absolute best, and is very important in protecting the engine from potential damage caused by the carburetor running excessively rich or lean. This also establishes the engine's hp output and max rpm. These numbers are very important to know. There is one more value that we consider just as important to what we have mentioned above. An engine that has been dyno tuned has also been validated to be in perfect operating condition. This is something that running the engine on a test mule can't provide. Any problems the engine may have will show up during the dyno tuning process. We have on rare occasion seen a popular combination show hp numbers that were not where they should be. Some of these problems give no indication other than reduced hp numbers. We find and fix such problems. The problem may be something simple and easy to find and in some cases very difficult to pinpoint. We will not send the engine out until it's perfect. If you choose not to purchase the dyno tuning package, we will still do a test mule run, as many engine builders do, and it certainly is better than nothing but pales in comparison to a full dyno tuning. When engines are dyno tuned, the chances of you having a problem are near non-existent. Unforeseen problems may still occur, but they are rare. We have kept the cost on this extensive procedure low to not only make it affordable, but it gives us great peace of mind knowing the engine will be in perfect operating condition when it is received. The cost to do a repair once the engine is installed can be very expensive for both us as the seller and for the customer. When you see the final dyno run of your engine on youtube, consider the fact that approximately five man hours, around $25.00 worth of fuel, oil and filter, and $105K worth of dyno equipment went into making that one minute final test run video.
Cost of the full dyno tune option for carbureted engines is $350.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Cost of the full dyno tune option for engines with EFI fuel systems will be $100 more.
Pictured below is one of our actual Super Flow dyno's. This is a 2016 model and highly advanced compared to the much older models many shops have. We have two of these in use at our shop.
The Super Flow is the best dyno in the industry.
If you purchase a starter from us you will have to install it. There is no way for us to properly shim the starter (should it be needed) while the torque converter and transmission are not installed. The flexplate will change position when the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate. Some flexplates have a slight amount of run-out/warpage when the trans. and torque converter are not connected to it. This makes correct starter installation difficult. Only when you have the torque converter mounted to the flexplate can you properly install and adjust the starter.
Suggestion: While the engine is out of the car, still mounted on the engine stand, bolt up your torque converter to the flexplate. This will flatten out the flexplate to a great degree. Then, mount your starter on the engine. This is the only time you will have a birds eye view of the starter gear and ring gear from the back of the engine. You can see ifthe proper amount of mesh is there.
It's possible that once the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate, the position of the ring gear may move a slight bit more. The transmission shaft centers up to the torque converter, and this causes the flexplate to further change shape slightly. This may alter your initial starter adjustment, and if it does, you may need to do a light adjustment once the transmission is installed.
We strongly suggest using our Powermaster 9100 or 9400 starter on this engine. These starters have proven to be highly reliable, and offer excellent header clearance.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING.
For those with very heavy vehicles, such as 4x4 quad cab trucks, 3/4 ton trucks, and crew cab/ex-cab trucks, Suburbans, plus trucks that may do light to medium trailer towing, we recommend the de-tuned version of this engine.
For those wanting to run a supercharger, we recommend our extra deep dish pistons with the 75cc heads regardless of the vehicle.
Our machinists each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is done to exacting specs and with great care. Many vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have. We have built engines that cost upwards of $50,000. All of our engine builders have been in the engine machining and engine building line of work for their entire working lives. Their ages range from 40 to 67. We have a total of seven machinists/engine builders.
We have dyno tested the original creation of this engine with every cam and intake choice available extensively. We now include the engine test mule run at no additional cost. The engine is thoroughly tested for leaks, vibration, unusual noises, overall engine sound and feel.
THIS ENGINE IS BUILT WITH THE BEST AVAILABLE PARTS WITH CONSIDERATION TO KEEPING THE COST OF THIS ENGINE REASONABLE. WE'VE REVIEWED WHAT THE COMPETITION IS OFFERING, AND WE'RE CONVINCED THAT WE ARE OFFERING THE BEST VALUE FOR THE MONEY.
This engine is warranted, with limitations and exclusions as set forth below, for two years from date of sale.
- Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first year of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine both ways.
- Keep the crate your engine came in to ensure a safe return to our workshop.
- We do not cover the removal or re-installation of the engine at any time during the warranty period.
- Our engines must be used with a rev limiter. Should warranty issues arise, proof of the rev limiter use will be required.
- Should a problem occur in the first year of the warranty that we determine can be repaired by you or a qualified repair shop, upon our written approval, we will pay for the repair based on our in-house hourly rates for labor and our estimate of a reasonable amount of time to make the repair with the engine on a stand as you received it. To be specific, due to the difficulty of accessing certain engine parts in some vehicles, we are not responsible for the additional time and labor costs you may incur in removing and replacing such parts.
- In the second year, the warranty will cover all parts minus any labor to remove and install needed parts. The cost of shipping the engine to us is not covered in the second year of warranty.
- Tuning or maintenance are not covered under the warranty. Tuning includes jetting or adjusting the carb, ignition timing, or readjusting the rockers. Tuning would also include changing out plugs to optimize temp range for your needs. Setting ignition timing is also considered tuning. You must check the timing on this engine before it is driven.
- If you are not satisfied with the cam or intake you have chosen, we will exchange any of these items for up to 60 days. You will pay for shipping and any required labor.
- Damage due to overheating, detonation or extreme abuse will not be covered by the warranty. Detonation damage is evident upon removal of the cyl. heads.
- Engines used in marine applications will have a limited warranty of ONE year from date of sale. The first six months will cover parts and labor, and the second half of the one year period will cover parts only. Marine engines must upgrade to a 4340 crank unless the engine already comes with this, and the ARP-2000 rod bolts.
- All external items on the engine, such as the carburetor, distributor, alternator, water pump, and power steering pump, will be warranted for the time period specified by the manufacturer. Most of these items have a warranty of one year or less.
- Our engines are custom built to your specifications (e.g., cam choice, intake, rocker ratio, engine color, compression ratio, and upgrades).
You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by racing or improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem.
Your carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone.
- It is highly recommended that you re-torque the intake manifold. The gasket sealant tends to shrink after a period of time and this may cause the intake bolts to lose their proper torque values. The torque range is approx. 25-30 lbs.
- The spark plug gaps should all be re-checked. For those running an HEI distributor, the plug gap should be approx. .040-.045 Those running an MSD 6AL unit should gap the plugs to approx. .035-.040 These values are very controversial and you may experiment as to what runs best in your engine. Widening the gap too much can put a strain on the ignition components. Be sure your plug wires are completely fastened onto the spark plugs.
- If your engine came equipped with a front end accessory setup, we recommend that you check all of the bracket and pulley bolts. It would be rare to find any of them loose, and it should only take a few minutes to check. We would also like you check the belt alignment.
- Check your flexplate or flywheel bolts.
- Check fuel bowl levels in the sight glass on the carb once you have the engine running. Be sure your fuel pressure is set in the correct range. Adjust the choke on the carb. We would prefer you set the choke to a loose setting. Setting it tightly may allow it do its job better, but can cause engine damage over a period of time due to excess fuel entering the engine upon warm up. Be sure to use a high quality fuel filter.
You may not find a problem with any of the items mentioned above, but considering the small amount of time it takes to check them, we find it to be a valuable preventive measure.
As it's been said, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."
Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the recommendations listed below.
Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations.
This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such as our Schaeffer brand racing oil. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Micron Moly 20w-50 grade in warm to hot weather or you may run the 10w-30 weight Schaeffer Supreme 7000 series semi synthetic oil in cooler weather. The part number for this oil is 709-06 for the six qt. case or 709-12 for the full case. After the engine is fully broken in, you may move over the Schaeffer full synthetic oil. The Schaeffer brand oil is very highly rated. It is the only brand of oil we use when dyno tuning. Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal.
We offer a full line of this oil in our other listings.
Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm.
If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.
There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.
The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.
This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. We believe that the electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system. If you decide to run a high volume mechanical fuel pump on this engine, then you must use the special polymer fuel pump rod that we offer, and you must also use a fuel pressure regulator, and gauge, set to approx. 6.0-6.5 psi. Only use engine oils with high levels of zinc compounds in them when running a mechanical fuel pump. This will protect the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the camshaft. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Racing oil. See our other listings for this oil.
As for oil filters, we recommend a high quality oil filter. Racing oil filters are excellent. See our other listings for the recommended oil filters.
You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.
We strongly recommend using a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase. The exhaust evac system we recommend is made by Moroso. The benefits are numerous as compared to the typical pcv system. Oil leaks are greatly reduced by using the exhaust evac system.
Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed.
Drive safely please but keep your engine under load more than normal and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern. This is why race engines are dynoed: to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will partially seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls.
If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine, then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for full synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE.
This engine does not come with oil in it. The oil that was used during the test run or dyno tuning will be drained as this is required by the shipping companies. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for metal particles. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris. To prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet, we re-install the oil filter. You must replace the oil filter that is installed on the engine with a high quality oil filter, but opt for the medium length version, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version. See our listings for the recommended oil filters.
You must prime your new oil filter. Priming is not needed when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. If your new engine has been sitting around for weeks, or possibly months, then you must prime the oil filter.
Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark.
More tuning recommendations. Very important.
You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct. We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor. Proper carb jetting is also a must. If you purchased the dyno package from us then the fuel to air ratio on your carburetor will be tuned within the safe ranges.
If you are using your own carb. on this engine, then you must be sure the fuel to air ratio is correct. If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.
If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly, not to mention cause excessive fuel consumption.
A tad on the rich side is not a problem and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage.
The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx. 13:1 Set total timing at 30-34 degrees. Total timing refers to the reading at 4500 rpm with the vac. advance disconnected. The closer to the lower number (30 degrees) the total timing is, the safer your engine will be. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing.
We do not recommend running the vacuum advance with this engine.
Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller or ignition kill switch. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting.
Do not run regular gas in this engine, no matter how much you have reduced the timing. It may not be enough! You may have run an old car in the past that pinged and clattered under load for many miles, and this didn't seem to hurt it. Most cars from the 60's and 70's had very low compression, especially when nearly worn out, and this is why the detonation did not destroy the engine. Excessive pinging, spark knock or valve clatter, as it's often referred to, may destroy this engine very quickly. Light pinging now and then is unlikely to do any damage, but it certainly will when there is an excessive amount of it under load.
Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping for very long, and you will lose the engine due to detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly.
Spark Plugs: We recommend the Autolite brand, part number Autolite 3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine when running in very hot climate. Race grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Keep the temp in the low to middle range. Use a plug that's too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition; use a plug that's too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start.
Most of our engines come with spark plugs in them, depending on the package you purchase. You may also use NGK part # NGK 4544, a plug that is one step lower in heat range than the Autolite plug. The NGK plug is only to be run during very hot weather.
You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It's more to do with heat range than any other factor. Factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do determine the temp range to run.
A slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, as well as possible difficulty in starting. However, you can have much more serious issues by running plugs with high temp ranges.
Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it's consistent, and not climbing.
Never use any of the modern day type antifreeze formulas that are used in most newer cars. This will most likely destroy the gasket material used in these engines. We have a customer that used the orange colored antifreeze made for Toyota trucks as he happened to have this on hand. This led to a failure of the high quality Felpro intake gaskets. The print seal material was partially dissolved allowing great amounts of coolant into the combustion chamber. This led to a catastrophic engine failure. The correct type of antifreeze to use should be ethylene glycol based, usually green colored. There are some animal safe substitutes on the market that should be ok to use. A mixture of 50/50 or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Keep the engine temp down if possible, but don't worry if you can't get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950, and never too far below this unless you are running the smaller engine cam choices. The reduced size cams would allow for a lower idle speed.
Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period.
When setting your carb choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult. QuickFuel brand carbs are best to run. They are also suitable for use on engines running a mechanical or electric fuel pump.
If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine, and will waste fuel.
If you feel you can get by without using the choke, then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering, the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all.
Hydraulic roller setups are virtually maintenance-free and require little if any maintenance.
Our recommendations will change from time to time. We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and from feedback from our customers. We know there's always room for improvement. We're always working on research and development, as does any successful business. We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis.
Why have we given such detailed information on our warranty and maintenance suggestions? Some customers bought our engines and did not fully understand our warranty and the maintenance needs of the engines.
Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do's and don'ts is asking for problems. We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information.
However, beware of some individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little. Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines.
For engines equipped with special order solid roller cams, the warranty on the valve train components is for 30 days. You may never have a problem with any of the components, but excessive street driving at cruising speed can adversely affect these components.
Solid roller setups should not be driven for excessively long distances or for long periods of time on the street. A weekend of racing at the drag strip would likely have less of an effect on the valve train components than a 100 mile easy drive.
If you do think you will be driving significant numbers of miles, we strongly recommend staying with our hydraulic roller cam package. The warranty on the hydraulic roller cam and valve train components is the same as the rest of the engine. See our other listings for info on all of our engines.
Your engine info will include the balance sheet and other information on this engine such as cam card, and your invoice will show your personal selection of the options offered.
Many have asked why we're able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It's because we're a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase price for the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master warehouse distributor (WD) pricing. Few machine shops ever get to master-wd pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.
A final note.
Our user id is: skipwhite, and our store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White." We are the original premier seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article below for a more detailed explanation.
The real story...Skip White Performance vs. White Performance & Machine
I'm sure many of you have noticed there are 2 high performance engine builders in Kingsport, TN with similar names, and this has led to a great amount of confusion.
We are Skip White Performance, NOT White Performance and Machine.
Due to the name similarity many customers looking for us online inadvertently find them, thinking we are the same company. Definitely not...there is no connection between the two companies. We don't have a problem with free enterprise (competition). However, when the competition builds their foundation on such things as a name similarity and their supposedly long history of being in business, then we think it's about time we set the record straight.
We have owned White Performance since 2003, with the exception of the machine shop, which was owned by Fred White at the time. He continued to operate the machine shop and build engines for us while we continued selling online under the user ID of skipwhite and the store name of whiteperformance1.
Due to their limited production capability and many disagreements about the engine building process and workmanship, we opted to open a full scale machine shop of our own a few years later. Fred White began competing against us even though our contract had a non-compete clause in it.
As our business grew, we opened a second, much larger warehouse and machine shop around 2011, located on Brookside Ln. in Kingsport TN. By putting heart and soul in this company, we have become the number one street rod engine builder in the nation.
Fred sold his shop to an investor in 2016 and the new owners continue to reap the benefits from this confusion between the two shops. This investor lacks any knowledge of this industry. They continue to use the White Performance & Machine name. Contrary to what is posted on their website, Fred White is no longer associated with the company in any way. Their main spiel in advertising is, "In business since 1979," when in fact, we purchased the White Performance company in 2003, with the exception of the machine shop.
All in all, we have been in this business 16+ years. Skip White's passion has been owning and building street rods for 47 years on a personal level. The knowledge he has gained over time has allowed him to venture into this business and succeed to a very high level.
The great pretenders continue capitalizing on our success due to the name similarity, but have been degrading our reputation. Recently, we have been getting calls nearly on a daily basis from people that now realize there are two shops in this town with very similar names. They complain of serious problems in getting their engines in a timely manner from them. They think they purchased their engine from us. Due to the confusion, there is an increasing amount of negative talk that is starting to reflect on our reputation within the street rod community, when in fact we have a near perfect reputation in this industry. We have an "A+" rating with the Better Business Bureau and we have maintained the A+ rating for many years.
FAST FORWARD TO 2019...We have become the largest street rod engine builder in the nation. Our engines, rotating assemblies, and cylinder heads are built to very high standards and shipped to our customers in a timely manner. We are a premier seller on with a positive feedback score of well over 206,000 and growing, as compared to our competitor’s score of approximately 24,000.
Our engines are custom-built to our customers' specifications and are shipped in approx. 2-4 weeks, perhaps sooner, depending on the season. Our rotating assemblies usually ship out in about one week or less, and our heads ship in about a week or less.
Now you know the real story, and we hope this helps with the confusion.