SBC CHEVY 383 SUPER STROKER STAGE 2.2 DART BLOCK, CRATE MOTOR 530 hp BASE ENGINE
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SBC CHEVY STAGE 2.2 HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM 383 CUBIC INCH ENGINE 530 HP STREET ROD SETUP.
RUNS ON PUMP GAS.
This engine is fully assembled from intake to oil pan.
DART SHP BLOCK WITH SPLAYED MAIN CAPS.
FORGED 4.030 BORE WISECO PISTONS, SCAT 3.750 STROKE CRANK, AND 6.0 SCAT RODS. NKB ALUMINUM HEADS.
FULLY ASSEMBLED FROM INTAKE TO OIL PAN.
4.030" BORE X 3.750" STROKE
- DART SHP BLOCK WITH SPLAYED MAIN CAPS. COMMONLY USED IN ENGINES BUILT TO 800+ HORSE POWER.
- NKB ALUMINUM ALLOY HEADS.
- HOWARDS ROLLER CAM AND TIE BAR STREET STRIP ROLLER LIFTERS. A CUT ABOVE THE OTHERS.
- ROLLMASTER RACE BILLET TIMING SET. THE VERY BEST ROLLMASTER HAS TO OFFER.
- SCORPION RACE SERIES ALUMINUM ROCKERS 1.5 OR 1.6 RATIO.
- SCAT CRANKSHAFT, CLEVITE BEARINGS. BALANCED ON OUR CWT BALANCER TO BELOW 2 GRAMS.
- SCAT RODS WITH ARP 8740 CAP SCREWS.
- WISECO PREMIUM FORGED PISTONS. 800+HP RATED.
- MELLING M-SELECT SERIES OIL PUMP WITH M-SELECT DRIVE ROD.
- CHAMP 5 QT. OIL PAN WITH OIL CONTROL SYSTEM. 8qt. AVAILABLE AS AN UPGRADE.
- PRO-RACE BRAND DAMPER.
- TWO YEAR WARRANTY.
This engine is designed for street/strip use. Pump gas friendly.
See our other listings for the fully dressed out turn-key version.
Two year warranty, see details below.
This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners. Cams #3 and #4 are our favorites for offering exceptional low end and mid range performance plus max drivability without needing to deepen final gearing or the need for a high stall speed torque converter.
If you choose to go with the Hurricane single plane intake and the first choice cam with 1.6 rockers, it will bring the hp numbers up to approx. 530. We do not recommend the single plane intake combined with cam choice 1 on any car that is over approx 3,200 lbs and/or cars with a steep (tall) final gear.
Please read the cam info provided below on the four cam choices before purchasing this engine. It is very important that you choose the correct cam and intake for your car and its intended purpose.
Here are a few good reasons why we think the 383 engine is a better choice than the 350 engine.
1. The 383 will accelerate most medium to heavy cars dramatically quicker than the common 350's on the market. The main difference between a 383 and the 350 is that the 383 torque comes in much lower. The difference is so dramatic that you would estimate the engine to have a much higher horsepower rating than it actually has. If you're not familiar with the 383 engine, do an internet search on SBC 383 vs 350, and you will be convinced of the difference. There is no inherent weakness in the 383 engine when using a Dart high performance block. These engines are built to last. All parts used have much higher hp ratings than this engine is producing.
2. The exhaust note that this engine produces is much deeper than that of any of the smaller cubic inch engines on the market. The difference is dramatic to say the least.
3. This engine can be installed in medium to heavier cars without killing acceleration, having to deepen the final gear, and needing a huge stall converter. This engine will accelerate a 3600 lb or heavier car much better than the 350.
4. Very low maintenance, decent drivability, yet costing only slightly more than building a 350 street rod engine. Horsepower will vary, depending on cam and intake choice. You have up to four different cams to choose from, and two styles of intake manifolds plus two rocker ratios.
5. Longevity, reliability and low maintenance. You don't have to turn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce its max hp output. There is nothing unsafe about running an engine that's as well built as this up to approx. 6,200 rpm. Our NKB aluminum heads use very high quality hardware. The new Dart Super High Performance block would be indestructible if built to the power rating of this engine. The Wiseco Racing pistons are rated at 800+hp. The protection against detonation is at its highest with these type pistons.
6. Should you ever decide to sell your car, the resale value of a street rod with a 383 engine is very desirable compared to those running 350's. No 350 can be built up to the level of a 383 while running pump gas with the same compression. The power and torque numbers down low in the rpm band are what make the 383 such an incredible engine, compared to the 350.
We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
As of 9/15/2013 we completed installation of our brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. In the past, we outsourced our dyno work. We were unable to do the research and development we truly wanted, and this prompted us to make the $105,000 investment. It’s been one of the best investments we have ever made. Every aspect of our engines can now be monitored, calibrated, and tuned. Best of all, we can now see what combos generate the best power, with consideration to drivability.
One thing we have noticed is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have less top end horsepower than expected, but the torque increase in the low rpm range is much greater than in the higher horsepower setup. This increase in torque down low is what you want if you’re sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.
The build sheet is as follows:
Pictured below is the new Dart SHP block. This block is the absolute ultimate in quality, durability, and value.
Dart SHP block, splayed caps
The block is bored to size with our new Centroid touch probe machine. Few machine shops have a machine of this accuracy.
We also deck the blocks to an RA finish of approx. 15 or better. The decking procedure is also done by our Centroid CNC machine.
We often find many brand new blocks to have a sloping deck of up to 4 thous. When we're finished decking the block, it is within approx. .001 accuracy from end to end. Many machine shops fail to catch this as the machinery they use does not allow for such accuracy.
We then plate hone the block with our new Sunnen SV10 diamond hone machine. This is also a very advanced machine that hones the block with a finish unlike conventional machines.
The final step is to clean the block in our high pressure block washer.
Pictured below is the rotating assembly that comes in this engine.
(file photo, actual parts may vary, see details below)
The photos above and below are file photos. Actual appearance may vary. This picture is to give you an idea of parts used in the rotating assembly portion of this engine. All parts are brand new, first line, unblemished, and balanced in house.
READ THIS LISTING COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BUY ELSEWHERE!
Connecting Rod Specs.
Piston & Ring Specs.
Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.
Flat or Dish top pistons will be used depending on Cam selection.
The Wiseco fully forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They offer several price levels of pistons, starting with the Pro-Tru Street version made with 4032 forged alloy. The next level up would be the Professional series that are much more expensive and made from 2618 aircraft alloy.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons are very close in comparison to the Professional series as they are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns.
We have seen a few engine builders use the
forged 4032 alloy. They may fragment from the effects of detonation
, and we find them to be very risky for any carbureted street rod engine that produces high horse power numbers. We would not even consider using such pistons. Such pistons can allow the connecting rods to destroy the block, crank, and cylinder head. Those types of pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but should never be used in carbureted engines built to high horse power levels. These type of pistons will not stand much detonation. The forged 2618 alloy piston is so much more resistant to the effects of detonation and heat.
Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons have a compression height that is .015 taller than nearly all catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.
Another good feature about our pistons having a taller compression height is that the ring land above the top ring is much stronger by being .015 thicker. When pistons encounter the effects of detonation, it is not uncommon to see pistons with the ring land above the top ring broken off. The thicker ring land also makes a better heat sink.
You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only. This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing.
Our custom made Wiseco forged pistons are made from 2618 aircraft alloy. We find this alloy to be much more suitable for high performance engines than the common 4032 forged alloy. You will usually see the higher end pistons on the market using 2618 aircraft alloy.
Why go with 2618 forged pistons? If you encounter certain tuning issues, detonation is highly probable, and its effects can cause severe damage to your engine. The 2618 forged piston is able to withstand the damaging effects from detonation to a higher degree than the lower cost 4032 forged pistons, especially non-forged hypereutectic pistons such as Speed Pro or Keith Black, and many others.
We have built approximately 3500 engines using the Wiseco pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor has there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect.
Flat or dish pistons, depending on cam choice. 5.7 or 6.0 inch piston and rod combinations available.
HASTINGS HIGH PERFORMANCE MOLY RINGS
The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.
Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft:
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.
Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down considerably.
We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.
Our choice of rods are the Scat Pro Stock rods with ARP-8740 cap screws.
We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike some Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.
We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name, and series of every part used in our engines.
Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.
Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws.
PRO RACE BRAND HARMONIC DAMPER, 6.75 DIAMETER, INCLUDED.
Pro-Race brand damper is used on all of our engines.
INTERNALLY BALANCED, 6.75" DIAMETER REDUCED ROTATIONAL MASS, OFFERS EXCELLENT CLEARANCE.
1.52" THICKNESS, 2.38" THICKNESS WITH HUB
BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.
This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your engine.
Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.
Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
NKB 200cc ALUMINUM HEADS
Our new NKB-200 heads have been designed especially for us. After receiving many recommendations from our engine builders, we came up with the best quality, best flowing heads on the market relative to cost. The only way you’re going to get a set of heads that flow as well or better will be to spend at least double the cost or more. We have installed these heads on all of our 383 and 406 engines for the past two years. Many of these engines were dynoed on our new Superflo dyno. The engines had every possible combination of cam, intake and carb. The results have been amazing. These heads are excellent in design and quality. Our choice of hardware and precision assembly also contribute to the performance and reliability of the heads.
In the flowchart below, the NKB-200s are superior to the Procomp heads in flow rates, and also edge out the Dart SHP heads on the intake side. The intake numbers are far more important than the exhaust. The overall average flow numbers on the NKB-200 heads are higher than most any brand of non cnc'd cast aluminum heads on the market.
The difference in horsepower and torque generated by the NKB heads is monumental compared to most all of the low cost sbc heads on the market. We offer four different cam choices with our 383 engine.
Here is a rundown on the hardware used in the NKB heads and the assembly process.
The retail cost at most High Performance stores on the PBM Competition valves is $239
We are now using the Competition Series PBM valves in all of our 383 and 406 engines. These are considered a high end valve. These valves have an undercut and backcut feature.
The backcut feature reduces valve weight by an average of 12.5 grams per valve. This weight reduction of approx. 208 grams off the complete set of valves has a monumental effect on acceleration, deceleration, and valve train life. It may be difficult to understand how this works, but rest assured, this is a huge reduction. The valve spring compression and rebound action will remain stable for a much longer time running lighter weight valves, as well as reducing valve float.
The backcut feature is not be mistaken for undercut. These valves have both features. Backcutting is an additional radius, but located on the head of the valve to increase the flow numbers and reduce valve weight. The flow increase is approx. 3-6 points on the flow bench, and possibly more, depending on the initial flow rate of the heads.
According to one of our machinists who built Winston Cup engines for 15 years, the exhaust valves had an additional radius cut on the outermost edge that allowed a better escape of the exhaust gas. This cut on the exhaust valve is in addition to the back-cut feature. The competition series are made from a much higher temp alloy than most other stainless valves. There are at least three levels of stainless valves on the market, excluding those used in very high level racing such as pro-mod. The PBM competition series is compared to the highest level of those three. As a final note, backcutting a set of valves is said to improve flow in the low lift area, and this is most desirable on street rods.
Comp High Performance Dual Springs, Part Number 987-16
Our Comp springs are 1.43 diameter, with an inner spring and internal damper. Others are using springs that are much smaller in diameter. Smaller diameter springs may be in the correct spring pressure zone, but they usually have a shorter life. Comp springs are made in the USA. All of our engines using the NKB heads use these springs. Spring failures are near non-existent.
COMP CAMS "POSITIVE STOP" VITON VALVE STEM SEALS. # 529-16
Comp 10 degree machined valve locks.
We use only Comp Super 10 degree machined locks. Our head builder noticed the low grade locks on the market fit more loosely than he felt they should, not to mention the possibility that they were made of inferior metal. He envisioned the engine being much more prone to dropping a valve at high rpm. Using these locks, we have yet to have an engine drop a valve due to a valve lock failure.
Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp Cams ID locators Part number: 4771-16
Our Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp ID locators # VTH-4771-16 are made from 4130 chromoly steel. These retainers have a perfect fit with the Comp valve locks. We have used these on all of our engines for many years, and have had zero failures.
We hone all of the bronze valve guides with a ball berry flex hone to establish not only perfect clearance, but also a semi cross hatch finish for oil retention. We finish off with a natural bristle brush. The heads are then placed in our parts washer and cleaned with high pressure hot water, then pressure dried. Before installing the valves, we apply a heavy coat of engine assembly lube to the valve stems. The coating on the valve stems is essential to protect the bronze guides from gaulding on initial startup.
Our next step is to set the spring pressure to a predetermined pressure using a spring height checking device, most suitable for street rod use. The springs we are using allow for a near perfect seat to nose ratio. Be warned that some sellers of aftermarket heads may not be checking the installed height when assembling the heads, and may not be setting them up to the correct pressures. We have a full scale machine shop with several very knowledgeable engine builders that know and fully understand how to properly assemble a set of heads. Combine the possibility of poor assembly methods with incorrect or low grade hardware, and it is easy to see how failures can result.
Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series, and ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.
Scorpion Race series 1.5 OR 1.6 ratio roller rockers with 7/16 ARP rocker studs. We recommend the 1.5 ratio for better low end response and extended valve train life.
THE BEST HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING ROCKER ARMS MANUFACTURED IN THE USA.
We were amazed at the low level of sound produced in the valve train when we did a test run using our first set of Scorpions. We attribute this quiet operation to the close tolerances in the trunnion section. The trunnion barrels are also micro polished.
The rockers have a lifetime warranty. The aluminum body is made from a 7000 series aircraft alloy. Most rockers have a considerable amount of side play in the trunnion section, and may have an excessive amount of needle bearing clearance. The Scorpion does not have much of a loose feel in the trunnion. Many round track and drag racers run these at very high rpm levels and even run them on solid roller setups. With the milder spring pressures of our engines, these rockers should last a lifetime.
All Scorpion Rockers Feature:
Needle Bearing Fulcrum and Roller Tip, Centerless Ground Trunnion, Centerless Ground Pin & Roller, Burr-Free Thru Hole in Trunnion, Large Machined Seat, Thick Walled Adjusting Nut, Pedestals Machined from Solid Steel, Black Oxide Coated Steel Parts, & 100% CNC Machined.
If you’ve read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a very similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell off-shore, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The aluminum alloys used are never aircraft aluminum alloys as are used in all USA made roller rockers. They often mention the alloy as being 6061, and that is a very soft form of aluminum. The 6061 alloy used on these will assure rocker-flex on any higher than stock spring pressures, and this will affect performance. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces.
We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.
We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a very low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.
We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble.
We use Scorpion, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum, and Comp Gold Arc rockers in all of our engines. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge. Do a Google search on this subject and you will know then what we’re talking about.
HOWARDS TIE BAR LIFTERS, HOWARDS CHROMOLY 1pc. .080 WALL PUSHRODS.
We use Howards brand premium pushrods in all of our engines. They are lightweight in design, yet very strong. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
Our choice of lifters are the Howards brand tie bar lifters. These lifters are much costlier than the regular drop in hyd. roller lifters, and have many unique features.
We are offering four cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.
Cam choice # 1
Howards part no. 180345-10
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .565/Exhaust .580
Duration @.050": Intake .245/Exhaust .253
This cam is the most aggressive of the four choices listed. It will make its peak horse power at approx 6500 rpm. The idle is very radical. Power comes in around 3200 rpm.
We recommend a stall converter of around 2800-3200. Final gearing would need to be at 373 or numerically higher. A 373 final gear is most optimal with this cam, providing the car is reasonably light. This cam does make the most horse power but will trade off bottom end throttle response and low speed cruising in the low rpm range unless your car is setup in pro-street form. The idle sound with this cam is very erratic.
You would not be able to run an overdrive trans, power brakes, or air conditioning with this cam choice. Valve train life and reliability is reduced with this cam as compared to the other choices. This would only be a concern for those wanting to drive their vehicles on long trips or with frequent use. This cam choice puts your setup nearly into the Pro-Street league.
Drivability is fair at best with this cam, unless you have a very light car, with a decent final gear.
If your car is over 3400 lbs, we strongly advise against this cam, unless you have a final gear in the 4.10 range or numerically higher. If you're on the fence with this cam choice and the one below, then you may want to go with this cam and keep the rocker ratio at 1.5, or go with cam choice 2 and go with a 1.6 ratio. That would put you somewhere in the middle of cam choice 1 and 2, at least in respect to valve lift.
Below are our dyno results on one of our 383 engines with cam choice # 1 with a dual plane intake. You results may vary depending on intake choice. The horse power numbers will always improve anywhere from 5-10 more than what the dyno results show after the rings have fully seated.
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with cam choice #1, Pro Maxx heads, and a single plane intake.
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with cam choice #1 and a dual plane intake.
Cam choice # 1 and a dual plane intake.
If you choose cam choice 1 with the single plane intake combination, it is highly recommended that you upgrade the ignition system to an MSD Pro Billet distributor, and CDI unit. You should also upgrade the carburetor to the SS Series for optimal performance. These important upgrades are essential for improved idling and overall performance. If you do decide to use the MSD Pro Billet distributor we suggest you use the black timing degree bushing to increase the initial timing and possibly the lighter springs to control how soon the total mechanical advance comes in. You may even "lock-out" the distributor, depending on you cars overall setup. The CDI unit will make a huge improvement in how the engine runs at idle. Low speed cruising will be greatly improved, as well as high rpm operation. The SS carb upgrade is an all out double pumper carb, and gives the engine instant throttle response. If you choose cam choice 2 you may not require these upgrades but should consider them to enhance the performance and drivability of your engine.
There is one more upgrade that I feel would enhance overall performance and add stability and longevity the valve train. The Max Effort Tie bar lifter upgrade is essential for those that choose to run hard. We use the regular Howards tie bar lifters with this cam and they do well, but the Max Efforts have proven to be much more stable in the upper rpm ranges. Any over-revving of the engine beyond it's peak power may bring on valve float when using the regular tie bar lifters. The Howards Max Effort Tie Bar lifters will not only improve performance but also allow the engine to operate very well in it's peak rpm range and beyond. This is a very nice upgrade for any street rod running into the upper rpm ranges.
Cam choice #2
PART # 180265-10
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .530/Exhaust .545
Duration @.050": Intake .233/Exhaust .245
Lobe sep. angle: 110º
Cam choice 2 is considered still somewhat aggressive and improves drivability compared to cam choice 1. This cam will still have an aggressive lopy idle. You would require a stall converter in the 2500-2800 range.
Final gearing should still be at approx. 3.73. If your car is in the 3800 lb weight range or more, we recommend cam choice 3 or 4. Hp numbers will drop with this cam, around 20-25 at the most. Combine this cam choice with the dual plane intake option and hp numbers will fall approx another 10-15, but bottom end torque is greatly improved, as well as drivability.
It is not recommended to opt for the single plane intake if your car is in the medium to heavy weight range. They do not operate as well in the lower rpm range. The low end torque with this cam comes in sooner than cam choice 1, but you must still set the car up with proper gearing and converter stall. This cam is our most popular and delivers great bottom end power and very good drivability.
You may not be able to run an overdrive trans with this setup, power brakes are a possibility. We do not recommend this cam if your going to run an A/C unit. Our cam choice 3 or 4 would be much more suitable.
Below are our dyno results on one of our 383 engines with cam choice # 2 with a single plane intake.The single plain intake would have produced a higher hp number. Results will vary depending on intake choice. The horse power numbers will usually improve anywhere from 5-10 more than what the dyno results show after the rings have fully seated.
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with cam choice #2 and a single plane intake.
Cam choice #2 and a single plane intake.
Cam choice #3
PART # 180245-10
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .500/Exhaust .510
Duration @.050": Intake .225/Exhaust .231
Lobe sep. angle: 110º
This cam choice (3) is the perfect all around setup for those wanting excellent bottom and mid range power, while still generating decent power at the top. Horsepower rating would drop an additional 10-15 hp below the cam choice 2. Drivability and street manners would be considered excellent. Heavy cars, upwards of 3800 lbs or more, would do well with this cam choice. No need for a high rpm stall with this cam, but you would still require a stall in the 2200-2500 rpm range for optimal acceleration.
If your car is in the heavy weight range, and/or geared on the steep side and you want much better streetability, then this is the correct cam choice. You still want to keep the final gear ratio at approx. 3.20 or numerically higher. If you have an overdrive trans., then this cam, coupled with the dual plane intake, would allow the engine to cruise in overdrive with rpm in the 1950-2050 rpm range. Should you have a Turbo 350 trans, then this cam choice would allow you to run a somewhat taller final gear to allow decent highway driving in the lower rpm ranges.
You may choose 1.5 or 1.6 rockers with this cam, but we recommend the 1.5 rockers for even better low end response, especially if you plan on running an overdrive transmission. You can also expect a much longer valve train life with this cam compared to the larger cams listed above, especially with the 1.5 ratio rocker choice.
Carb size when using this cam will drop. You'll notice slightly better mileage and better throttle response with this carb versus the larger carbs required when running the larger cams. If your vehicle is very heavy, over 4400 lbs, then we recommend our cam choice #4.
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with this cam choice, 1.6 rockers, and a single plane intake.
Cam choice #4
PART # 180315-10
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .465/Exhaust .470
Duration @.050": Intake .209/Exhaust .215
Lobe sep. angle: 110º
Cam choice #4 would be an excellent choice for those with a heavy car or truck. This cam would also be the best choice for those running a 700R4 trans. Low speed cruising, running an A/C, and excellent vacuum for operating power brakes are all possible with this cam.
Great off idle power. A stall converter in the 1800-2500 range would give excellent results. Gearing could be considerably taller, allowing for much better mileage and low rpm highway cruising.
Excellent of idle power is what to expect from this cam choice. Carb size will drop once more with this cam. Possibly better mileage, and for certain, throttle response would be excellent with this cam. Valve train wear and noise would be nearly nonexistent when coupled with 1.5 or 1.6 rockers.
One more benefit of this cam choice is that we can set the engine up with a reduced compression ratio, and this would offer great protection against detonation, and also extend the life the of engine. Running mid grade fuel or even regular grade fuel becomes a possibility with the reduced compression ratio.
The information above on cam selection is not etched in stone. You could step outside these guidelines in either direction to some degree and still have very good street manners. The larger cams could possibly cross the finish line sooner in cars that are setup properly compared to the smaller choices, but the smaller cams will have a better feel in the lower to mid rpm range without all the drama of the more radical setups above.
We're all hungry for as much horsepower as we can get, but building an engine of a given size to higher horsepower will always require a trade off. The 383 engine offers the best of both worlds when it comes to bottom and top end power, but the bigger cams are more demanding on gearing and stall, sensitive to weight, and suffer on drivability as well as valve train wear and tear.
THE CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD OR SPORT TRUCK.
You have a choice of single or dual plane intake. The single plane intake (1st pic below) should only be used on cars that are very lightweight and have good hood clearance.
Dual Plane Intake shown below. This is a large runner dual plane intake. They make excellent mid range power.
Pictured below is the Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane intake. If you're going with cam choice # 2 or 3 and require more bottom end power, we strongly recommend this intake. This intake offers incredible low end response and has excellent hood clearance for those installing this engine in a C3 Corvette with a non-cowl stock hood.
Polished intakes also available.
304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
Pictured below are some of our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost for your engine.
The satin covers below are by far the most popular.
RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.
THE RETRO FINNED VALVE COVERS CONTRAST NICELY WITH THE CHROME AND POLISHED ITEMS.
OUR RETRO STYLE TALL FINNED VALVE COVERS HAVE BECOME VERY POPULAR. YOUR CHOICE.
Timing components: Rollmaster Race Billet double roller timing set.
Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.
We use the top of the line Rollmaster timing set with a torrington bearing. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany and the sprockets are hardened billet steel (upper and lower). These sets are hand matched for selective sizing. The picture above is the actual Rollmaster timing set used in our bbc engines.
The cost on this high end timing set is approx $135.00, about three times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others.
This top of the line timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.
Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.
The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.
Pictured below is the oil pan included with this engine. The Champ oil pan used on this engine has a 5 qt. capacity. It has an elaborate oil control system. Features windage tray, crank scraper, .055 gauge outer shell. Champ oil pans are made in the USA. All of our engines will come with the Champ oil pan. We also offer the 8qt Champ pan as an optional upgrade. If your car will not allow the use of the large capacity Champ oil pan.
We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.
We use this premium studded mini nut set for oil pan and valve cover fasteners. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other builders. We use this set on all our engines.
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
We offer this engine with selected upgrades. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value. Most of these upgrades are low in cost considering the benefits they offer.
Flywheel upgrade/option for manual transmission. Upgrade to a 168-tooth or 153-tooth flexplate for manual transmissions.
Cost for this option is $105.00 We have this upgrade/option featured in our other listings. There will be a 153 tooth and a 168 tooth size available. Be sure you know the size you need. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
SFI Billet Steel flywheel upgrade/option for manual transmission. Upgrade to a PRW brand billet steel flywheel SFI rated 168-tooth or 153-tooth for manual transmissions. We highly recommend the SFI billet steel flywheel for those running hard. These are fully cnc'd and far superior in many ways compared to the regular cast iron flywheel.
Cost for the SFI billet flywheel option is $169.00 We have this upgrade/option featured in our other listings. There will be a Chevy 153 tooth and a Chevy 168 tooth size available. Be sure you know the size you need. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
SFI damper: Offers an extreme level of safety against breakage, and is very resistant against slippage of the elastomer damping material. SFI dampers are not only made from a better grade of steel, they are also constructed differently and have a much better appearance. They usually last much longer than a non-SFI damper. Many drag strips require this on engines producing high horse power levels. The SFI certification is laser etched into the side.
Cost of the SFI damper upgrade is $69.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Scat Competition Rods: Recommended for those running hard. The regular Scat rods that come with this assembly are sufficient for most street rod uses, but the Scat Competition series rods offer more security against rod breakage under hard use, and they have the huge ARP-8740 7/16's cap screws. The Competition rods have a 600+ Hp rating, and the slight cost to upgrade is well worth it in our opinion. These rods require slightly less cam to rod clearancing then the regular Scat rods. We use the very same Scat Competition rods in our 600+ hp 427 and 434 engines.
Cost of this Scat Competition rod upgrade is $65.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
ARP-2000 rod bolts: This is one upgrade that we find to be very valuable. The rod bolts are most likely to fail under hard use, moreso than the rod itself. When a rod bolt fails during high RPM, total engine destruction is usually the result. The ARP-2000 rod bolts are a very good upgrade, in our opinion. We actually have few, if any, problems with the regular ARP-8740 bolts, but those who run hard always upgrade to the ARP-2000 rod bolts. The ARP-2000 rod bolts also torque at a higher number, and this increased clamping force is also a factor in keeping the big end of the rod stable and true to size. The ARP-2000 bolts are installed in the rods and this upgrade is only available with the Competition rod upgrade.
Cost of this ARP 2000 rod bolt upgrade is $85.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Race balancing: This is for those who want the engine to operate virtually vibration free at high rpm. Extends engine life and frees up a few more horse power. This is a somewhat labor intensive procedure and is not required, but the feel of an absolutely vibration free engine at high rpm is desirable by many. The standard balance job that is included with this assembly at no extra charge is certainly sufficient. With a race balance job, all pistons and rods are match weighed to within 2/10's of a gram or less, and the final balance is brought down to around 1 gram plus or minus. An ultra smooth engine at high rpm has a noticeable feel and sound to it. If you do not opt for this upgrade, the assembly will still be fully balanced. We spend a good hour and a half doing the regular balance work, and it will certainly meet your needs.
Cost of this race balancing upgrade is $125.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Scat 4340 Forged Crank: The forged Scat crank has a rating of 800+ HP. This is the ultimate upgrade for those wanting to run hard. Nos, blowers, turbos, are not an issue with this crank. Even without such power adders, this Crank offers great protection under the most severe conditions. This upgrade also comes with the HP high Performance King bearings. Should you decide to run power adders in the future, this would be essential. The fatigue life of the 4340 crank over the cast nodular is also greatly extended. We do offer this upgrade as part of many of our assemblies in some of our other listings. They have the key words, "fully forged," in the title.
Cost of this forged crank upgrade is $460.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Internal (neutral) balanced front. This low cost upgrade is the next best thing to an internal balanced crank. This Scat crank is similar in design to the one offered in this assembly, but it has an internal (neutral) balanced front. Running a crank that is neutral balanced in the front will allow the use of a non-weighted front damper. This will eliminate the additional mass from a weighted damper. Replacing the damper, if it's ever needed, becomes a simple procedure, and assures that the balancing is not affected. It's well known that under high rpm conditions, the front of the crank on externally balanced engines is at risk of breaking much more than those with an internal setup.
Cost of the internally balanced front crank is $49.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Polished single plane or dual plane Intake Manifold: This low cost upgrade really adds beauty to the engine for those who like the bright polished look on the engine. This is available on our Single plane or large runner dual plane intake, known as the Eliminator (very similar to the Edelbrock RPM Airgap).
Cost of the polished single or dual intake is $49.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Single plane or dual plane Speedmaster polished intake upgrade, your choice.
Dyno Tuning: This is one of the most important upgrade/options we offer. There are many benefits to this service. The engine is first run at fast idle to bring the water and oil temp up to normal operating temperature. It is then run for approx. 20 minutes under a simulated load at around 3k rpm to promote initial ring seating. After this, the engine is shut down to allow us to check the readings on the spark plugs, and for any possible oil leaks. This cool down is considered part of the engine's first heat cycle. We then follow up with multiple low to medium rpm runs to further the break-in process of all the moving parts in the engine. During these multiple runs, we are paying close attention to the EGT, (exhaust gas temp) readings, vacuum pump readings, oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, and overall engine sound. At this point, we start the actual dyno tuning process and this focuses around the air to fuel ratio numbers and what timing numbers produce peak power. We usually have to change carb. jetting several times, adjust the idle circuits, and the air-bleeds occasionally have to be changed. We then establish the engine's full horse power and torque numbers at a given rpm limit.
Having your engine dyno tuned will allow it to run its absolute best, and is very important in protecting the engine from potential damage caused by the carburetor running excessively rich or lean. This also establishes the engine's hp output and max rpm. These numbers are very important to know. There is one more value we consider just as important to what we have mentioned above. An engine that has been dyno tuned has also been validated to be in perfect operating condition. This is something that running the engine on a test mule can't provide. Any problems the engine may have will show up during the dyno tuning process. We have on rare occasion seen a popular combination show hp numbers that were not where they should be. Some of these problems give no indication other than reduced hp numbers. We find and fix such problems. The problem may be something simple and easy to find and in some cases very difficult to pinpoint. We will not send the engine out until it's perfect. If you choose not to purchase the dyno tuning package, we will still do a test mule run, as many engine builders do, and it certainly is better than nothing but pales in comparison to a full dyno tuning. When engines are dyno tuned, the chances of you having a problem are near non-existent. Unforeseen problems may still, occur but they are rare. We have kept the cost on this extensive procedure low to not only make it affordable, but it gives us great peace of mind knowing the engine will be in perfect operating condition when it is received. The cost to do a repair once the engine is installed can be very expensive for both us the seller and the customer. When you see the final dyno run of your engine on youtube, consider the fact that approximately five man hours, around $25.00 worth of fuel, oil and filter and $105K worth of dyno equipment went into making that one minute final test run video.
Cost of the full dyno tune option is $350.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Pictured below is one of our actual Super Flow dyno's. This is a 2016 model and highly advanced compared to the much older models many shops have. We have two of these in use at our shop.
The Super Flow is the best dyno in the industry.
If you purchase a starter from us you will have to install it. There is no way for us to properly shim the starter (should it be needed) while the torque converter and transmission are not installed. The flexplate will change position when the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate. Some flexplates have a slight amount of run-out/warpage when the trans. and torque converter are not connected to it. This makes correct starter installation difficult. Only when you have the torque converter mounted to the flexplate can you properly install and adjust the starter.
Suggestion: While the engine is out of the car, still mounted on the engine stand, bolt up your torque converter to the flexplate. This will flatten out the flexplate to a great degree. Then, mount your starter on the engine. This is the only time you will have a birds eye view of the starter gear and ring gear from the back of the engine. You can see ifthe proper amount of mesh is there.
It's possible that once the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate, the position of the ring gear may move a slight bit more. The transmission shaft centers up to the torque converter, and this causes the flexplate to further change shape slightly. This may alter your initial starter adjustment, and if it does, you may need to do a light adjustment once the transmission is installed.
We strongly suggest using our Powermaster 9100 or 9400 starter on this engine. These starters have proven to be highly reliable, and offer excellent header clearance.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING.
For those with very heavy vehicles, such as 4x4 quad cab trucks, 3/4 ton trucks, and crew cab/ex-cab trucks, Suburbans, plus trucks that may do light to medium trailer towing, we recommend the de-tuned version of this engine.
For those wanting to run a supercharger, we recommend our extra deep dish pistons with the 75cc heads regardless of the vehicle.
Our machinists each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is done to exacting specs and with great care. Many vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have. We have built engines that cost upwards of $50,000. All of our engine builders have been in the engine machining and engine building line of work for their entire working lives. Their ages range from 40 to 67. We have a total of seven machinists/engine builders.
Will do business again thanks for great service
Reviewed by o***2 on Jan. 9, 2017, 1:44 a.m. | Permalink
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