The engine shown above is an actual representation of the engine you will receive.

The build sheet is at the lower part of this listing. This engine is designed for high performance pro street rodding or strip use.

This engine uses a brand new DART block, with a tall (10.200) deck height.

The block is bored to size with our new Centroid touch probe machine. Few machine shops have a machine of this accuracy.

We also deck the blocks to an RA finish of approx. 15 or better. The decking procedure is also done by our Centroid CNC machine.

We often find many brand new blocks to have a sloping deck of up to 4 thous. When we're finished decking the block, it is within approx. .001 accuracy from end to end. Many machine shops fail to catch this as the machinery they use does not allow for such accuracy.

We then plate hone the block with our new Sunnen SV10 diamond hone machine. This is also a very advanced machine that hones the block with a finish unlike conventional machines.

The final step is to clean the block in our high pressure block washer.

BBC NEW GENERATION DART BLOCK BORE 10.200" STD DECK HEIGHT

 

We now use the New Generation Dart blocks in our BBC 572 engine builds. The New Generation Dart block is light years ahead in overall construction as compared to any of the other blocks on the market. Dimensional specs are spot on, and this has been an issue with other blocks we have used in the past. Many of the top engine builders, ourselves included, have found the new Dart block to be superior to the earlier generation Big M series Dart block in many ways.

Dart Machinery has completely redesigned the Big M series Block. They have incorporated numerous improvements and new features to virtually every area of the block.

Below are the specs of the rotating assembly portion of this engine.

The picture above is a file photo of the rotating assembly that comes with this engine. See the detailed info below for the actual pictures and items included in this engine.

Fully balanced in house.

**********************************************************

Crankshaft Specs.

 

• Crankshaft: Genuine Manley #190280
• Crankshaft Stroke: 4.750"
• Crankshaft Material : 4340 Forged Alloy.
• Journal Diameter: STD BBC
• Rear Main Seal: 2pc RMS

Connecting Rod Specs.

• Rods: Genuine Manley 14072R-8
• Rod Type: H-Beam
• Rod Length: 6.700"
• Rod Material: Forged 4340 Alloy.
• Rod Bolt/Cap Screw: ARP 2000 Cap Screws.

Piston & Ring Specs.

• Pistons: JE Custom Built Fully Forged. High Performance for street/strip use.
• Piston Size: 4.600"
• Dome Volume: Dome Top. Comp. Ratio will be right at 13:1
• Compression Height: 1.115
• Piston Material: Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy
• Piston Rings: Total Seal metric premium rings.
• Ring Size:
• Ring Material:

Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.

• Main Bearings: Clevite HP High Performance Series.
• Rod Bearings: Clevite HP High Performance Series.
• Balance: In House on CWT balancer. Race balanced.
• Damper: ATI Super Damper SFI Internally balanced.
• Flexplate: Heavy Duty SFI 168 tooth or 153 tooth. Manual Trans. flywheels available.

Listed below is a complete breakdown of all the parts that are included in this engine.

 

 

JE CUSTOM MADE FULLY FORGED PISTONS. JE PISTONS ARE 100% MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. THESE ARE CUSTOM BUILT AND HAVE LATERAL GAS PORTING. TOOL STEEL GRADE WRIST PINS.

 

 

 

 

The JE forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They

are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns. We prefer the 2618 alloy over the lower cost 4032 alloy. This alloy may fragment from the effects of detonation and if this happens, it can be very destructive to the engine.

Those types of pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but should never be used in carbureted engines built to high horse power levels.

 

The forged 2618 alloy piston is much more resistant to the effects of detonation and heat.

 

The wrist pins that are included are made from a tool steel grade material, and have thicker than normal walls. This is a very expensive type of wrist pin, and capable of handling very high amounts of horse power.

 

Our JE Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.

Our custom made pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller on bbc pistons, and .015 taller on sbc pistons, as compared to most all of the catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.

 

Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of the block. Our goal is set the piston at zero deck (flush with the deck surface). This maintains the deck's thickness, making it much stronger than a block that has been cut down .025. The engine will also run a bit cooler with a thicker deck. It's well known that the deck dissipates much of the built up heat an engine generates. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing without compromising the integrity of the block. On our bbc engines, we actually leave the piston about .003 to .005 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock. Our sbc engines will have the pistons setting right at zero with the deck.

 

These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups.

Manley 4340 Forged Crankshaft.#190280

The picture below is a generic file photo

 

Crank Polishing.

Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down to below considerably.

Genuine Manley brand heavy duty 6.700 H-beam rods with ARP-2000 cap screws.

We use genuine Manley H beam rods with ARP-2000 cap screws in our drag series 632 engine.

We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name, and series of every part used in our engines.

Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.

Genuine ARP-2000 cap screws.

We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.

ATI SUPER DAMPER SFI INCLUDED.

 

INTERNALLY BALANCED, SFI rated, 7.074" DIAMETER, REDUCED ROTATIONAL MASS, OFFERS EXCELLENT CLEARANCE.

HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.

This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.

We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.

We offer premium grade Ram brand SFI Billet Steel flywheels for manual transmission use at an additional cost. See our other listings. This engine includes a flexplate for automatic transmission use at no additional cost.

 

When purchasing a flywheel for manual transmission use, be sure to know what tooth count you need. There are two sizes available, and it is of the utmost importance to select the flywheel that is correct for this engine. There are several factors that must be addressed when choosing your correct flywheel. The tooth count must be correct. This is very important. There are two sizes available, and it is the bellhousing size on the transmission that determines this. Another important factor is if the engine your purchasing is internally balanced often referred to as neutral balanced or if it is an externally balanced engine, often referred to as externally balanced. Big block and small block engines will also have a different bolt pattern in most cases. To sum it up, there are three important factors to look for when selecting the correct flywheel, tooth count, int. or ext bal. and whether or not you purchasing a big block or small block engine. The Ram brand flywheels we offer are very high quality. See our other listings for a complete line of the Ram brand SFI flywheels.

 

 

Our CWT 5500 Balancer.

We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your assembly.

Three CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.

Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.

AFR fully cnc'd aluminum cylinder heads. 385cc runner size with titanium retainers.

 

The pictures of the AFR heads are a file photo of our regular AFR heads used on other motors. This engine will have the 385cc fully cnc'd heads with titanium retainers.

GENUINE AFR STUD GIRDLES.

 

File photo. Actual appearance may vary.

We use premium pushrods in all of our engines. They are made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These pushrods have extra thick walls.

Cometic premium race grade series head gaskets, ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.

Comp custom ground cam.

 

 

Comp Cams.

Part number: Special Grind. Solid Roller.

 

BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR ENGINES AS WE DO.

We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.

As you can see in the picture below, these timing pointers have a glove like fit.

Timing components: SA gear billet double roller timing set.

Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.

We use the top of the line SA Gear timing set with a torrington bearing and rolon chain. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common low-cost timing set. The both sprockets are made from billet steel. This is a nine keyway timing set. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.

The cost on this high end timing set is approx $120.00, more than double the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others.

This timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.

COMP ULTRA PRO MAGNUM XD ALUMINUM ROLLER ROCKERS #1820-XD

 

The picture above is the non-XD series. This engine will have the XD Ultra Pro Magnum rockers.

 

The new Ultra Pro Magnum XD™ Roller Rocker Arms not only live up to the lofty standards of the original Pro Magnums™, but they also take stud mount rocker performance, stability and value to a whole new level. The modern arched, web-like design delivers increased strength and rigidity while still reducing the moment of inertia and optimizing the dynamic balance.

Important notice.

If you’ve read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a very similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell off-shore, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The aluminum alloys used are never aircraft aluminum alloys as are used in all USA made roller rockers. They often mention the alloy as being 6061, and that is a very soft form of aluminum. The 6061 alloy used on these will assure rocker-flex on any higher than stock spring pressures, and this will affect performance. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces.

We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.

We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a very low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.

We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble.

We use Scorpion, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum XD in this engine. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge. Do a Google search on this subject and you will know then what we’re talking about.

Skip White

The oil pans we use on all of our engines are made in the USA by Champ. The Champ oil pan has a full windage tray, crank scraper, and trap door. Threaded dipstick is included. Extreme duty pickup designed not to fail. The oil pan is made from a thicker than normal gauge material, and has embossed ribs in the body.

This is an extended capacity oil pan. The special pickup tube is designed for this oil pan. If you think you may have a clearance issue with the 8 qt pan, let us know and we can use the stock style pan.

The 8 qt pan is approx half an inch deeper than a stock pan, and the kickouts on the side are at the lower section of the sump. They start to swell outward about three inches from the bottom, approx. 3 inches or less on each side. Most vehicles have no problem with this type of pan and it's certainly a much better setup than a conventional oil pan.

The quality of these pans far exceeds any of the lower priced oil pans used on many engines.

We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.

Pictured below is a file photo. The actual Felpro gasket used will be the correct model for this application.

Studded Mini Nut Set.

We use our premium studded mini nut set on all of our oil pans and valve covers. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan and valve covers to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other engine builders. Our standard engine color is black. Custom paint work on engine blocks and oil pans is available as an optional upgrade. The pictures above and below are file photos to display the studded mini nuts. Other items seen in these pictures may not represent your actual engine.

The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.

We are confident that the price we have on our engine will never be matched by our competition!

We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.

As with any race grade engine, this engine will not have a basic warranty. We will warranty our workmanship, and any parts used in this engine will carry the warranty offered by the manufacturer only.

Your carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone.

Pre-Installation/Pre-Run Recommendations.

• It is highly recommended that you re-torque the intake manifold. The gasket sealant tends to shrink after a period of time and this may cause the intake bolts to lose their proper torque values. The torque range is approx. 25-30 lbs.

• The spark plug gaps should all be re-checked. For those running an HEI distributor, the plug gap should be approx. .040-.045 Those running an MSD 6AL unit should gap the plugs to approx. .035-.040 These values are very controversial and you may experiment as to what runs best in your engine. Widening the gap too much can put a strain on the ignition components. Be sure your plug wires are completely fastened onto the spark plugs.

• Check your flexplate or flywheel bolts.

• Check fuel bowl levels in the sight glass on the carb once you have the engine running. Be sure your fuel pressure is set in the correct range. Adjust the choke on the carb. We would prefer you set the choke to a loose setting. Setting it tightly may allow it do its job better, but can cause engine damage over a period of time due to excess fuel entering the engine upon warm up. Be sure to use a high quality fuel filter.

You may not find a problem with any of the items mentioned above, but considering the small amount of time it takes to check them, we find it to be a valuable preventive measure.

As it's been said, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the oil recommendations listed below.

Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations.

This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such as our Schaeffer brand racing oil. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Micron Moly 20w-50 grade in warm to hot weather or you may run the 10w-30 weight Schaeffer Supreme 7000 series semi synthetic oil in cooler weather. The part number for this oil is 709-06 for the six qt. case or 709-12 for the full case. After the engine is fully broken in, you may move over the Schaeffer full synthetic oil. The Schaeffer brand oil is very highly rated. It is the only brand of oil we use when dyno tuning. Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal. We offer a full line of this oil in our other listings.

Here is a brief outline of the average additive levels in the Schaeffer Oils as compared to Valvoline VR1. We only use Schaeffer oil in our dyno room, and strongly recommend its use in our engines. The 10W-30 7000 series oil is totally acceptable to use in one of our brand new engines. It will not interfere with the break-in process. The 20W-50 Micron Moly is also an excellent choice to use in warm weather.

This engine does not come with oil in it. The oil that was used during the test run or dyno tuning will be drained as this is required by the shipping companies. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for metal particles. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris.

To prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet, we re-install an extended life high quality oil filter. This oil filter that we supply has an internal by-pass valve in it and is rated at 25 micron filtration. Run the oil and filter for a period of approx. 500 miles.

You may wonder why we're using an extended life oil filter but want it replaced in such a short period. These extended life oil filters are an excellent choice for a new engine. They have a much larger capacity for the higher amount of debris developed from the new engine without affecting the oil flow volume. They also have better designed bypass valves and stronger cases on them. All of these features are essential to a new engine.

When replacing the filter with one of your choice, you must use a high quality oil filter that has a by-pass valve in it. Some filters may also have an anti-drainback valve on them, but they are not necessary on V-8 Chevy engines, but the bypass valve feature is a must. Our engines are now equipped with a billet oil filter adapter that requires the use of an oil filter that has its own by-pass valve in it. Always opt for the medium length version, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version. If your headers are an issue with the medium length filter, then the shorty version is acceptable. See our listings for the recommended oil filters.

Billet aluminum oil filter adapter.

Racing oil filters such as the Wix Racing oil filter may only be used after the engine is completely broken in. These racing filters have a very loose media and provide very little resistance and a high oil flow volume, but due to the loose media, they don't filter small particles of debris from the oil. They are only to be used on engines that do not see high mileage use, and have gone through one or two oil changes with low micron rated filters.

Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm.

If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.

There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.

The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.

This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. We believe that the electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system. If you decide to run a high volume mechanical fuel pump on this engine, then you must use the special polymer fuel pump rod that we offer, and you must also use a fuel pressure regulator, and gauge, set to approx. 6.0-6.5 psi. Only use engine oils with high levels of zinc compounds in them when running a mechanical fuel pump. This will protect the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the camshaft. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Racing oil. See our other listings for this oil.

Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed.

Drive safely please but keep your engine under load more than normal and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern. This is why race engines are dynoed: to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will partially seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls.

If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine, then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE.

You must prime your new oil filter. Priming is not needed when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. If your new engine has been sitting around for weeks, or possibly months, then you must prime the oil filter.

If you have chosen our Champ stock appearing pan, fill it with approx 5 quarts of oil in the sbc engine and 6 quarts in the bbc engine. Some engines are offered with the extended capacity oil pan, and these use 7 quarts of oil in the sbc engine and 8 quarts in the bbc engine. You will be able to distinguish the extended capacity oil pan from the stock appearing model by the addition of the kick-outs on the side of the pan.

More tuning recommendations. Very important.

You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct. We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor. Proper carb jetting is also a must. If you purchased the dyno package from us then the fuel to air ratio on your carburetor will be tuned within the safe ranges.

If you are using your own carb. on this engine, then you must be sure the fuel to air ratio is correct. If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.

If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly, not to mention cause excessive fuel consumption.

A tad on the rich side is not a problem and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage.

The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx. 13:1 Set total timing at 30-34 degrees. Total timing refers to the reading at 4500 rpm with the vac. advance disconnected. The closer to the lower number (30 degrees) the total timing is, the safer your engine will be. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing.

Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller or ignition kill switch. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting.

Do not run pump gas in this engine. Run 110 octane fuel only.

Spark Plugs: Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. It is advised that you run the type plugs that are included with this engine.

Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it's consistent, and not climbing.

Never use any of the modern day type antifreeze formulas that are used in most newer cars. This will most likely destroy the gasket material used in these engines. We have a customer that used the orange colored antifreeze made for Toyota trucks as he happened to have this on hand. This led to a failure of the high quality Felpro intake gaskets. The print seal material was partially dissolved allowing great amounts of coolant into the combustion chamber. This led to a catastrophic engine failure. The correct type of antifreeze to use should be ethylene glycol based, usually green colored. There are some animal safe substitutes on the market that should be ok to use. A mixture of 50/50 or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Keep the engine temp down if possible, but don't worry if you can't get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950, and never too far below this.

Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period.

Do not overfill with engine oil. Slightly less than normal is better than too much, in most cases. Using half a quart less oil can greatly reduce potential oil leaks. This is a common practice in many high performance engines.

Our recommendations will change from time to time. We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and from feedback from our customers. We know there's always room for improvement. We're always working on research and development, as does any successful business. We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis.

Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do's and don'ts is asking for problems. We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information.

However, beware of some individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little. Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines.

Special note.

Solid roller setups on BBC engines should not be driven for excessively long distances or for long periods of time on the street. A weekend of racing at the drag strip would likely have less of an effect on the valve train components than a 100 mile easy drive.

Skip White

Your engine booklet will include the balance sheet and other information on this engine such as, cam card, and your invoice will show your personal selection of the options offered. We usually mail this out prior to shipping the engine.

THIS ENGINE USES THE BEST PARTS. WE’VE REVIEWED WHAT THE COMPETITION IS OFFERING, AND WE’RE 100% CONVINCED WE ARE OFFERING A FAR BETTER VALUE.

Many have asked why we’re able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It’s because we’re also a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase price for the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master warehouse distributor (WD) pricing. Few machine shops ever get to master-wd pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.

A final note.

Our user id is: skipwhite, and our store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White." We are the original premier seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article below for a more detailed explanation.

The real story...Skip White Performance vs. White Performance & Machine

I'm sure many of you have noticed there are 2 high performance engine builders in Kingsport, TN with similar names, and this has led to a great amount of confusion.

We are Skip White Performance, NOT White Performance and Machine.

Now you know the real story, and we hope this helps with the confusion.