Chevy BBC 632 DRAG SERIES Base Engine, AFR HEADS DART Block, 1050 HP-BASE
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The build sheet is at the lower part of this listing. This engine is designed for high performance pro street rodding or strip use.
This engine uses a brand new DART block, with a tall (10.200) deck height.
The block is bored to size with our new Centroid touch probe machine. Few machine shops have a machine of this accuracy.
We also deck the blocks to an RA finish of approx. 15 or better. The decking procedure is also done by our Centroid CNC machine.
We often find many brand new blocks to have a sloping deck of up to 4 thous. When we're finished decking the block, it is within approx. .001 accuracy from end to end. Many machine shops fail to catch this as the machinery they use does not allow for such accuracy.
We then plate hone the block with our new Sunnen SV10 diamond hone machine. This is also a very advanced machine that hones the block with a finish unlike conventional machines.
The final step is to clean the block in our high pressure block washer.
We now use the New Generation Dart blocks in our BBC 572 engine builds. The New Generation Dart block is light years ahead in overall construction as compared to any of the other blocks on the market. Dimensional specs are spot on, and this has been an issue with other blocks we have used in the past. Many of the top engine builders, ourselves included, have found the new Dart block to be superior to the earlier generation Big M series Dart block in many ways.
Dart Machinery has completely redesigned the Big M series Block. They have incorporated numerous improvements and new features to virtually every area of the block.
Below are the specs of the rotating assembly portion of this engine.
The picture above is a file photo of the rotating assembly that comes with this engine. See the detailed info below for the actual pictures and items included in this engine.
Fully balanced in house.
- Crankshaft: Genuine Manley #190280
- Crankshaft Stroke: 4.750"
- Crankshaft Material : 4340 Forged Alloy.
- Journal Diameter: STD BBC
- Rear Main Seal: 2pc RMS
- Rods: Genuine Manley 14072R-8
- Rod Type: H-Beam
- Rod Length: 6.700"
- Rod Material: Forged 4340 Alloy.
- Rod Bolt/Cap Screw: ARP 2000 Cap Screws.
- Pistons: JE Custom Built Fully Forged. High Performance for street/strip use.
- Piston Size: 4.600"
- Dome Volume: Dome Top. Comp. Ratio will be right at 13:1
- Compression Height: 1.115
- Piston Material: Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy
- Piston Rings: Total Seal metric premium rings.
- Ring Size:
- Ring Material:
- Main Bearings: Clevite HP High Performance Series.
- Rod Bearings: Clevite HP High Performance Series.
- Balance: In House on CWT balancer. Race balanced.
- Damper: ATI Super Damper SFI Internally balanced.
- Flexplate: Heavy Duty SFI 168 tooth or 153 tooth. Manual Trans. flywheels available.
Our JE Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.
Our custom made pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller on bbc pistons, and .015 taller on sbc pistons, as compared to most all of the catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.
Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of the block. Our goal is set the piston at zero deck (flush with the deck surface). This maintains the deck's thickness, making it much stronger than a block that has been cut down .025. The engine will also run a bit cooler with a thicker deck. It's well known that the deck dissipates much of the built up heat an engine generates. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing without compromising the integrity of the block. On our bbc engines, we actually leave the piston about .003 to .005 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock. Our sbc engines will have the pistons setting right at zero with the deck.
These pistons are also suitable for use with mild nitrous or blower setups that do not exceed a 25% increase in horsepower over the engines naturally aspirated rating.
The New Manely Pro-Series 4340 Forged Crankshaft.
The picture below is a generic file photo
Some of the benefits of the new Manley Pro-Series crankshaft supplied with this engine:
Manley Pro Series crankshafts can make your engine bulletproof. They feature forged 4340 construction and undergo a multi-step heat-treatment process and are then nitrided for added strength. The crankshafts are stress-relieved, shot-peened, and magnafluxed. Manley Pro Series crankshafts have micro-polished large .125 in. radius journals, gun-drilled mains, and lightened rod journals for weight reduction. The counterweights are fully profiled and they are designed for internal balancing. These crankshafts will include a spec. sheet that validates journal sizes and checks for taper on each journal as well as finish quality.
We recommend that you check the thrust clearance on the crank before assembling the engine. This is recommended on any crankshaft, regardless of brand or cost. Also be sure to check your main and rod journal size.
Our choice of rods are the Genuine Manley 6.700 H-beam rods with ARP 2000 cap screws.
The Manley H-beam rods are very high rated in the racing industry. They easily outrank most of the other common brands on the market.
Genuine ARP-2000 cap screws.
We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.
HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.
This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your assembly.
Three CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.
Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
AFR fully cnc'd aluminum cylinder heads. 385cc runner size with titanium retainers.
File photo. Actual appearance may vary.
We use premium pushrods in all of our engines. They are made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These pushrods have extra thick walls.
Cometic premium race grade series head gaskets, ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.
Edelbrock Victor II single plane intake # 2897 or the Profiler 10D depending on availability.
304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
Peak advertised hp of 1050 would come in around 6700-6800 rpm. The carb used on our dynoed test engine was a 1425 Dominator.
BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR ENGINES AS WE DO.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
As you can see in the picture below, these timing pointers have a glove like fit.
We strongly recommend that you run a vacuum pump on this engine. We will supply the non-accessory hole valve covers with this engine if needed.
Timing components: SA gear billet double roller timing set.
Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.
We use the top of the line SA Gear timing set with a torrington bearing and rolon chain. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common low-cost timing set. The both sprockets are made from billet steel. This is a nine keyway timing set. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.
The cost on this high end timing set is approx $120.00, more than double the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others.
This timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.
COMP ULTRA PRO MAGNUM XD ALUMINUM ROLLER ROCKERS #1820-XD
If you’ve read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a very similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell off-shore, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The aluminum alloys used are never aircraft aluminum alloys as are used in all USA made roller rockers. They often mention the alloy as being 6061, and that is a very soft form of aluminum. The 6061 alloy used on these will assure rocker-flex on any higher than stock spring pressures, and this will affect performance. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces.
We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.
We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a very low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.
We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble.
We use Scorpion, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum XD in this engine. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge. Do a Google search on this subject and you will know then what we’re talking about.
Champ premium oil pan.
The oil pans we use on all of our engines are made in the USA by Champ. The Champ oil pan has a full windage tray, crank scraper, and trap door. Threaded dipstick is included. Extreme duty pickup designed not to fail. The oil pan is made from a thicker than normal gauge material, and has embossed ribs in the body.
This is an extended capacity oil pan. The special pickup tube is designed for this oil pan. If you think you may have a clearance issue with the 8 qt pan, let us know and we can use the stock style pan.
The 8 qt pan is approx half an inch deeper than a stock pan, and the kickouts on the side are at the lower section of the sump. They start to swell outward about three inches from the bottom, approx. 3 inches or less on each side. Most vehicles have no problem with this type of pan and it's certainly a much better setup than a conventional oil pan.
The quality of these pans far exceeds any of the lower priced oil pans used on many engines.
We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.
Pictured below is a file photo. The actual Felpro gasket used will be the correct model for this application.
We use our premium studded mini nut set on all of our oil pans and valve covers. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan and valve covers to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other engine builders. Our standard engine color is black. Custom paint work on engine blocks and oil pans is available as an optional upgrade. The pictures above and below are file photos to display the studded mini nuts. Other items seen in these pictures may not represent your actual engine.
The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.
We are confident that the price we have on our engine will never be matched by our competition!
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
As with any race grade engine, this engine will not have a basic warranty. We will warranty our workmanship, and any parts used in this engine will carry the warranty offered by the manufacturer only.
- Any additional items purchased with the engine, such as a carburetor, distributor, alternator, water pump, and/or power steering pump, will be warranted for the time period specified by the manufacturer. Most of these items have a warranty of one year or less.
- Our engines are custom built to your specifications (e.g., cam choice, intake, engine color, compression ratio, and upgrades).
Your carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone.
- It is recommended that you re-torque the intake manifold after the first 1000 miles. The gasket sealant tends to shrink after a period of time and this may cause the intake bolts to lose their proper torque values. The torque range is approx. 25-30 lbs.
- The spark plug gaps should all be re-checked before you first start this engine. For those running an HEI distributor, the plug gap should be approx. .040-.045 Those running an MSD 6AL unit should gap the plugs to approx. .035-.040 These values are very controversial and you may experiment as to what runs best in your engine. Widening the gap too much can put a strain on the ignition components. Be sure your plug wires are completely fastened onto the spark plugs.
- If your engine came equipped with a front end accessory setup, we recommend that you check all of the bracket and pulley bolts. It would be rare to find any of them loose, and it should only take a few minutes to check. We would also like you check the belt alignment.
- Check your flexplate or flywheel bolts.
- Check fuel bowl levels in the sight glass on the carb once you have the engine running. Be sure your fuel pressure is set in the correct range of approx. 5.5-6.5 lbs. Adjust the choke on the carb. We would prefer you set the choke to a loose setting. Setting it tightly may allow it do its job better, but can cause engine damage over a period of time due to excess fuel entering the engine upon warm up. Be sure to use a high quality fuel filter. If your running an electric fuel pump you may not even need the choke. If your engine comes with one of our street strip carbs with a milled air horn, then you must run an electric fuel pump, as these high performance carbs do not come with a choke.
Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm. When the time comes to change your first oil filter, the Wix racing filter will most likely improve oil pressure. It will certainly improve oil flow, and GPM rating. The Wix Racing filters are a true racing filter, and have a micron rating of around 60. You will be required to change your oil and filter more frequently when using the Wix Racing filters. Around every 1500-2000 miles.
If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.
There are many special additives in true race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.
The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.
This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 5.5-6.5 psi. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. We believe that the electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system. If you decide to run a high volume mechanical fuel pump on this engine, then you must use the special polymer fuel pump rod that we offer, and you must also use a fuel pressure regulator, and gauge, set to approx. 6.0-6.5 psi. Only use engine oils with high levels of zinc compounds in them when running a mechanical fuel pump. This will protect the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the camshaft. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Racing oil. See our other listings for this oil.
You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.
We strongly recommend using a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase. The exhaust evac system we recommend is made by Moroso. The benefits are numerous as compared to the typical pcv system. Potential oil leaks are greatly reduced or eliminated by using the exhaust evac system.
Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed.
Drive safely please but keep your engine under load more than normal and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern. This is why race engines are dynoed: to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will partially seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls.
If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine, then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for full synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.
Some of our engines offer and extended capacity Champ oil pan that has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side and has a square flat bottom but depth is only about half an inch different from the stock style pan. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend opting for the stock appearing oil pan. This style pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4th to 1/2 a quart. Doing this may greatly reduce the chance of oil leaks, and reduce oil temps as well as other issues caused by windage. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts create a large amount of windage and are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines.
Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark if needed.
Your engine will be in a crate on a pallet, and you will receive a roll around engine cradle at no additional cost. The value of the engine cradle and lift plate is approx. $65.00 Your engine will also be fully insured.
Below are pictures showing how your engine is prepared for shipping. We start with a heavy duty pallet with an OSB base, then the engine is put on an engine cradle, (wheels are included) and bolted to the pallet with an engine lift plate installed on the intake and fully shrink wrapped to avoid scuffing the engine when removing the crate and this also protects the engine in the event the outer crate is knocked loose during shipping. We then build a heavy duty custom engine crate that is bolted and nailed onto the base over the engine and once again shrink wrap the complete crate for added strength. Prior to shipping you will be sent a close up picture showing your engine on the pallet including any other items you purchased with your engine.
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
Contact us for shipping cost for overseas delivery. We have excellent sources for low cost shipping anywhere in the world.
We have now included a flat rate shipping fee on this engine within the 48 continental states. This rate only applies to delivery to a business with the capability to unload the engine without the use of a lift gate. You must have a dock or fork lift. We can have the engine delivered to a residence with lift gate service but at an additional cost.
Our eBay user id is: skipwhite, and our eBay store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White." We are the original premier eBay seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other eBay names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article below for a more detailed explanation.
The real story...Skip White Performance vs. White Performance & Machine
I'm sure many of you have noticed there were 2 high performance engine builders in Kingsport, TN with similar names, leading to a great amount of confusion.
PAYMENT AND SHIPPING DETAILS
Note from Skip White, President.
Pictured above is the Centroid DRX 750 at the SEMA show. All were impressed by this machine's performance. This is one of the most advanced block blueprinting machines on the market. Pictured below is the machine in operation at our shop.
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