CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 383 STROKER STAGE 2.0 AFR HEADS, ROLLER CAM ENGINE 503 HP
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Introducing our Turn Key Stage 2 Roller cam 383 cid 503 HP engine.
This engine is designed for street/strip use. Pump gas friendly.
THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE AS SHOWN FROM CARBURETOR TO OIL PAN. EDELBROCK PREMIUM PLUG WIRES ARE INCLUDED BUT NOT INSTALLED.
Pictured below shows the engine with the dual plane intake manifold.
Two year warranty; see details below.
This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners as it may be referred to.
The dyno numbers produced on our base engine were created with our cam choice # 1 and a single plane intake manifold with a Quick Fuel carburetor. Our test engine produced right at 503 HP at 6150 RPM; very impressive at that RPM range.
Please read the cam info provided below. Many cam choices are available to suit your needs. You may have noticed that our Stage 2.2 Super Stroker 383 engine with cam choice 1 makes more power, yet has the same cubic inch. This is due to the fact that cam choice 1 for that engine is one step up from the cam choice 1 in the Stage 2.0. The 2.2 is set up in a somewhat Pro Street fashion. The Stage 2.0 engine offered in this ad is a more conservative build, with extreme reliability, yet still offers very high horsepower numbers.
Here are a few good reasons why we think the 383 Stage 2.0 engine is a better choice over most other 383 engines on the market.
1. The 383 will accelerate most medium to heavy cars much better than the common under-powered 350's on the market.
2. The exhaust note of a small block 383 is much deeper that of the typical 350 engine.
3. The ability to put this engine in medium weight cars without killing its acceleration, having to deepen the final gear, and needing a huge stall converter is a real plus. This engine will accelerate a heavy car much better than the 350.
4. Decent drivability and generating up to 503 HP at the same cost as building a 350 street rod engine. Horsepower will vary, depending on cam, carb and intake choice. You have three different cams to choose from, and two styles of intake manifold. Flat or dish pistons are available, but we recommend staying with the piston volume size that we match up with your cam choice.
5. Longevity, reliability and low maintenance. You don't have to turn the engine to a critical RPM range to produce its max HP output. There's nothing unsafe about running an engine that's well built, like this, up to 6,200 RPM. The hydraulic roller cam is very reliable. Our AFR aluminum heads use very high quality hardware.
6. Should you ever decide to sell your car, the resale value of a street rod with a 383 engine in it is higher than those running 350's.
7. The cost of the Stage 2.0 roller cam 383 engine offers more value than the 350 engine considering the power increase.
8. 383 engines are known to be very fuel-efficient when set up properly.
We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
One thing we have noticed on our dyno is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have slightly less top end horsepower, but the torque band is moved down lower in the rpm range considerably. This increase in torque down low is what you want if you're sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.
The build sheet is as follows:
The bare block is a fully machined re-manufactured true GM late model roller block. 1 pc. rear main seal style and designed for street or strip applications. All internals and external items in this engine are 100% brand new.
The compression range will be approx. 10.5:1 or less, depending on cam choice. This setup will certainly generate the highest horsepower when coupled with our cam choice # 1 or 2. We do not see any problems with a 10.5:1 compression range in light to medium weight cars. For those choosing cam choice 3 or 4, we will lower the compression ratio slightly. The lower compression is all that's needed with the smaller cam, and this further increases resistance against detonation to a great extent. Fuel requirements can be lowered to mid grade 89-91 octane with the reduced compression, but do also consider the many other factors that increase the need for octane, such as outside temps, altitude, ignition timing, vehicle weight, gearing, payload, etc. We would prefer that you use premium fuel regardless of what setup you choose. We're more or less on the thin line between mid-grade and premium fuel requirements with the reduced compression setup.
This 4 bolt main bare block used for this engine is an OEM late model GM roller block that has been fully reconditioned/re-manufactured. The rotating assembly and all other parts except the block are 100% brand new. This engine is set up with your choice of several different hydraulic roller cams.
The blocks used for building our Stage 2 roller cam 383 do have four bolt main caps.
Listed below are all the machining procedures performed on this block. These are 1 pc. rear main seal style.
Mains have been line-honed to factory specs. This important procedure is often skipped, and failure to do this usually results in a short-lived build.
Block has been bored and torque plate honed. The use of a torque plate when honing is a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market don't have this performed.
Block has been decked to approx. 9.020. It is desirable to keep the deck as thick as possible, so as little as possible has been removed to correct any deviations. Our pistons have a taller than normal compression height (1.140). This allows the piston to have a very good quench zone of around .038-.042. total including head gasket.
Most catalog pistons sit much lower in the block, and this may be desirable when used in old blocks that have had the deck milled down many times. When installing such pistons in blocks that have a near stock deck height, the quench zone is very poor. We had our pistons custom made to address this issue. Keeping the quench tight not only makes more power, but protects the engine from detonation to a much greater extent than a loose quench/squish zone.
The use of the 1 pc. rear main seal block is highly desirable, as they are highly resistant to leaks. These blocks are all from the roller cam era (approx. 1992-2001). Between 2005 and 2008, we built approximately one thousand 383 engines using this exact style of block. We had extremely good results and no failures. Over 50% of them were built as hyd. roller setups, and were putting out around 415-503 HP, depending on piston choice, cam style, and profile.
The advancements on the late roller blocks are many compared to the early style blocks. The only reason we stopped building the 383's with these blocks had to do with core availability. We never used the early style 1pc. rms non-roller blocks or 2 pc rms style to build engines, as we find them to be far past their prime.
We are now offering a flat rate shipping fee on this item, see details below. We do have this engine available in many variations of build levels, (bare block, short block, long block, and turn key). See our other listings.
The 1 pc. rear main seal engine will fit perfectly in cars that have early style 2 pc. rear main seal blocks. There is no difference in the engine mount position. All early style transmission bell housings will mount perfectly to the Gen 2 block. There are many advancements on the late style blocks compared to early style 2 pc. blocks. The cost of rotating assembly parts for 1 pc. rear main seal blocks is the exact same price as the early 2 pc. RMS Gen 1. This is the style block most people are choosing.
As you can see pictured above, the stroker clearancing has been performed at the bottom of each cylinder, as well as the pan rail area. This procedure was performed on a cnc machine for absolute accuracy and consistency. We have noticed some machine shops butcher these areas in the block.
Pictured below is the rotating assembly that comes in this engine.
(file photo, actual parts may vary, see details below)
The photos above and below are file photos. Actual appearance may vary. This picture is to give you an idea of parts used in the rotating assembly portion of this engine. All parts are brand new, first line, unblemished, and balanced in house.
READ THIS LISTING COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BUY ELSEWHERE!
- Crankshaft: Genuine Scat Internally bal. front.
- Crankshaft Stroke: 3.750"
- Crankshaft Material : Cast Nodular
- Journal Diameter: STD SBC
- Rear Main Seal: 1pc RMS
- Rods: Genuine Scat
- Rod Type: Scat I-beam, Bronze Bushed.
- Rod Length: 5.7 or 6.0 Your Choice. We have pistons to accommodate both rods.
- Rod Material: Forged 4340 Alloy.
- Rod Bolt/Cap Screw: ARP 8740 Cap Screws.
- Pistons: Wiseco Fully Forged. High Performance for street/strip use.
- Piston Size: 4.030"
- Dome Volume: RD D-cup Dish. Comp. ratio calculates out to approx. 10.5:1
- Compression Height: 1.140 or 1.440 depending on rod length choice.
- Piston Material: Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy
- Piston Rings: Hastings High Performance, Moly, Standard Tension.
- Ring Size and Fit: 5/64 5/64 5/64.
- Ring Material: Cast/Stainless/Moly
- Main Bearings: Clevite
- Rod Bearings: Clevite
- Balance: In House on CWT balancer.
- Damper: Pro-Race brand Pro-Sport Series SFI 6.61"
- Flexplate: Heavy Duty SFI 168 tooth or 153 tooth. Manual Trans. flywheels available.
Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.
Our custom made pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller on bbc pistons, and .015 taller on sbc pistons, as compared to most all of the catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.
Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of the block. Our goal is set the piston at zero deck (flush with the deck surface). This maintains the deck's thickness, making it much stronger than a block that has been cut down .025. The engine will also run a bit cooler with a thicker deck. It's well known that the deck dissipates much of the built up heat an engine generates. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing without compromising the integrity of the block. On our bbc engines, we actually leave the piston about .003 to .005 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock. Our sbc engines will have the pistons setting right at zero with the deck.
These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups.
The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.
Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft:
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.
We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.
Our choice of rods are the Scat Pro Stock rods with ARP-8740 cap screws.
We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.
We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name and series of every part used in our engines.
Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.
Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws are used in all our Scat Rods.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.
This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer used by most others. We balance the rotating assembly to 2 grams or less. A balance sheet is included with your engine.
Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.
Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series, and ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.
Howards Brand Chromoly One pc. Pushrods.
Howards brand are the only type of pushrod we use in our engines. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
You have a choice of single or dual plane intake. The single plane intake (1st pic below) should only be used on cars that are very lightweight and have good hood clearance.
We now offer the single plane intake in aluminum with a black finish as a $49.00 upgrade.
Dual Plane Intake shown below. This is a large runner dual plane intake. They make excellent mid range power.
Pictured below is the Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane intake. If you're going with cam choice # 2 or 3 and require more bottom end power, we strongly recommend this intake. This intake offers incredible low end response and has excellent hood clearance for those installing this engine in a C3 Corvette with a non-cowl stock hood.
304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
We are offering several cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.
110 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Xtreme Energy Step Nose Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice, coupled with our single plane intake and our -7.5ccforged pistons with 1.5 rockers, will produce right at 503 horsepower at approx. 5,900 RPM. We recommend the dual plane intake for better drivability, and throttle response. The dual plane intake will move the torque down lower in the rpm range. The single plane intake would allow the engine to make its peak advertised horsepower at the peak rpm, but these type intakes move the torque band higher up in the rpm range. Expect a slight loss of top end power with the dual plane intake, but low speed drivability and cruising are greatly improved. If you car is in the lighter weight range and has a decent final gear, (3.55-3.73 or numerically higher), then you may select this build with our flat top pistons and 6 inch rods at no additional cost. The compression range is a bit on the high side, but considering the flat top pistons allow much better combustion, detonation is really not a problem. An octane boost additive would be recommended.
The single plane intake is not recommended for use in vehicles weighing over 3,800 lbs unless your vehicle is set up with a somewhat deep final gear, (3.55-3.73 ratio). Our cam timing components were left in the straight up position. Ignition timing was set at 34 degrees total and 93 octane fuel was used. During very hot weather, total timing should be set at 31-32 degrees. A final gear of approx. 3.73 or numerically higher, and a stall of approx. 2,500 would be the bare minimum. Preferably a stall speed of approx. 3,000 to 3,200 would be highly recommended, especially if you have chosen this setup with a single plane intake.
111 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Step Nose Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice is the perfect all around setup for those wanting a decent bottom and mid range while still generating excellent power at the top. Horsepower rating would drop off by approximately 25 with this cam when using the single plane intake and 1.6 rockers. This setup will generate its peak power at approx. 5600 RPM and this can vary depending on rocker and intake choice. Vacuum is increased with this cam compared to cam choice 1.
If your car is in the medium weight range or up to approx. 4,000 lbs, and you want slightly better streetability, then this is a very good cam choice. You still want to keep the final gear ratio at 3.55 or numerically higher. You may choose 1.5 or 1.6 rockers with this cam, but we recommend the 1.5 rockers if you would like to further improve low end response. A stall converter in the 2500 rpm or higher range would be suitable for this setup.
This cam should be paired up with the dual plane Crosswind intake for better drivability. The single plane Hurricane can be used, but the dual plane will have much better bottom end and mid range response. You can also expect a longer valve train life with this cam compared to the larger cam choice. This cam will also have a lopey idle, but not as radical as the larger cam above.
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with this cam choice, a single plane intake with 1.6 rockers and a Brawler 750 carb.
111 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Step Nose Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice has a lower lift and duration than the others offered above, and is highly recommended for use in heavy cars or full size sport trucks. The low end response and mid-range power with this cam is very good. Horsepower rating would be approx. between 405-420 depending on intake and rocker choice.
The rule of thumb for cam size: the smaller the cam in a given application, the better will be the low end response. One more benefit to the smaller cam is the reduced requirements for lower gearing and higher RPM stall converters. A final gear ratio of 3.30 would be acceptable with this cam.
This would be the only cam choice for running an overdrive transmission such as the 700R4 cruising at around 2000 RPM in overdrive. A stock stall converter may be used with this cam, but for improved acceleration, a 2000-2250 stall is recommended, especially in heavy vehicles with a tall final gear. If you are running an overdrive transmission, then choose this cam with the 1.5 ratio rockers, and the Edelbrock EPS intake.
Valve train life is greatly extended with this cam as compared to the others, and drivability is at its best. Low and mid throttle response is very strong. This cam choice will also produce the greatest amount of vacuum at idle compared to those listed above. You may run power brakes with this cam. This cam is best paired up with our Edelbrock EPS intake. This particular intake is offered at no extra cost. The EPS intake actually has amazing off idle power compared to any of the larger runner dual plane intakes. This intake is the most practical intake to select when you use this cam. Fuel mileage would be at its best with this cam and the EPS intake. We also run a lower compression piston with this combination, making the engine less prone to detonation.
THE CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD OR SPORT TRUCK.
QUICK FUEL SLAYER 600, Brawler 670, OR 750 CFM CARB, DEPENDING ON CAM CHOICE.
Quick Fuel Technology (QFT) has engineered its new Slayer series vacuum secondary street carbs with all the features. The Slayer is not some stripped-down off-shore QFT copy, it features the same QFT race engineering, all-aluminum construction and hand-built quality that goes into all QFT race-winning carburetors.
The Slayer's incredible value is made possible by QFT's new CNC machining centers and the unique design that utilizes a secondary metering plate with changeable jets, eliminating the costly secondary metering block unneeded for most street/strip cars. The majority of fine tuning on a street carburetor is done on the primary side, and the Slayer provides all of the popular options: changeable idle air and high-speed air bleeds, 3-stage emulsion circuits, changeable primary idle feed restrictions and power valve restrictions.
A truly welcomed feature is the QFT QuickSet adjustment on the vacuum secondary diaphragm that provides a quick external twist adjustment without changing springs. Secondary metering can be altered with changeable main jets and the secondary float is also notched for jet extensions.
Additional features are a fully adjustable electric choke, and a semi polished finish that will improve any engine compartment. The Slayer 750cfm (Part # SL-750-VS) features a 1-11/16" throttle bore and a 1.375" venturi.
Using fuel systems that other than what is offered in this engine package, may affect your warranty.
Pictured below are some of our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost for your engine.
The satin covers below are by far the most popular.
RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.
THE RETRO FINNED VALVE COVERS CONTRAST NICELY WITH THE CHROME AND POLISHED ITEMS.
Billet Aluminum Breather set.
If you chose cam choice 1 or 2, then we highly recommend using an exhaust evac. system. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best. The exhaust evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit of the evac system is that you're not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi-burned byproducts from the engine oil and combustion process.
After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup may be sufficient. However, it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup.
We also offer a vacuum pump system for the ultimate in crankcase pressure control.
If you do decide to use an exhaust evac system, we have a few more recommendations. The bullet style perforated mufflers, like those made by Magnaflow and many other companies, must be used. In our opinion, they sound the best and, most importantly, they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly. Magnaflow is a popular brand of the true straight through mufflers, and there are several other brands on the market such as Corsa, Borla, and Bullet. The sound level is controlled by the length you choose. The 12-16 inch length sounds the best to us. These mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls. They should not be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, which are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound.
Traditional chambered mufflers, like Flowmaster, create a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. system. Chambered mufflers have the reputation of helping bottom end throttle response, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine, especially if you have chosen cam choice 2, 3 or 4. In our experience, the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect, and allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. system. More info. on this subject below.
Timing components: SA Gear 8999T billet double roller timing set.
Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.
We use the top of the line SA Gear timing set with a torrington bearing and rolon chain. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common low-cost timing set. The upper sprocket is made from billet steel and the lower is induction hardened with nine keyways. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.
The cost on this high end timing set is approx $97.50, more than double the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others.
This timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.
Champ premium oil pan.
The oil pans we use on all of our engines are made in the USA by Champ. The Champ oil pan has a full windage tray, crank scraper, and trap door. Threaded dipstick is included. Extreme duty pickup designed not to fail. The oil pan is made from a thicker than normal gauge material, and has embossed ribs in the body.
If your engine is equipped with the 7 qt. Champ oil pan, it has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend opting for the stock appearing 5 qt. oil pan. The 5 qt. pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4th of a quart. Doing this may reduce the chance of oil leaks and reduce oil temps. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines. The higher capacity 7 quart oil pan is an optional upgrade on some of our engines.
To be clear on what we're saying, we would like to see you add right at 6.75 quarts of oil grand total in your engine and oil filter when using the higher capacity oil pan. When using the stock appearing oil pan, we would like to see you add right at 4.75 quarts grand total in your engine and oil filter.
Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark.
We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.
Pictured below is a file photo. The actual Felpro gasket used will be the correct model for this application.
We use our premium studded mini nut set on all of our oil pans and valve covers. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan and valve covers to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other engine builders. Our standard engine color is black. Custom paint work on engine blocks and oil pans is available as an optional upgrade. The pictures above and below are file photos to display the studded mini nuts. Other items seen in these pictures may not represent your actual engine.
Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.
The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.
Pictured below are the front end accessories that are included with this engine. They will be installed on the engine.
High volume satin aluminum water pump with an aluminum impeller.
Stainless Socket head bolts are used to mount the water pump.
Our 120 amp chrome plated one or three wire alternator.
Polished billet aluminum alternator bracket.
Chrome plated power steering pump and bracket with aluminum pulley.
File photos. Actual appearance may vary.
EDELBROCK MAX-FIRE ULTRA-SPARK 50 OHM UNIVERSAL SPARK PLUG WIRE SET AND OUR MSD STREET FIRE HEI DISTRIBUTOR ARE INCLUDED.
The Edelbrock Max-Fire Ultra Spark wires are premium grade wires. They have the same specs as the top of the line MSD Super Conductor wires. The Edelbrock wires have a 50 ohm impedance per foot rating and are 8.5 mm in diameter. As you may know, plug wires come in many different grades. These wires are on the high end of the scale. They are also totally suitable for use with HEI distributors and capacitative discharge ignition systems such as the MSD Pro-Billet distributors that run the 6AL box. Most of the lower grade wires on the market have a much higher level of resistance and are usually only 8.0 mm diameter. The lower the ohm rating the better. Edelbrock wires are 100% made in the USA. The plug wires are included but not installed on the engine. Due to the many different style headers being used, we will send the universal wires with the engine for custom fitment. The wires are available in red or black.
If your vehicle is a pre 75 model that came with a point style distributor, you may encounter firewall clearance issues with the MSD HEI distributor. If you think you are going to encounter this problem, then you should upgrade to the MSD Pro-Billet distributor. This unit will clear any firewall. You will need a CDI box such as the MSD 6AL and an external coil when using the MSD Pro-Billet distributor. We offer these systems in our other listings. The MSD CDI system is far superior to the regular HEI distributor in many ways. We strongly recommend it.
The plug wires are included but not installed on the engine. Due to the many different style headers being used, we will send the universal wires with the engine for custom fitment.
The MSD HEI distributor will be installed in the engine.
MSD STREET FIRE DISTRIBUTOR. The MSD Street Fire HEI distributor is a far superior unit compared the low cost HEI unit on the market. The failure rate is near non existent. We find the advance curve characteristics also to be more in suitable for street rod engines. We have also noticed that the degree span from initial to total timing is a slightly closer, approx. 18 degrees variance. This allows the engine to have more initial timing when operating at low speed without the use of the vacuum advance.
The MSD Street Fire HEI distributor is now included in all of our turn key engines as of purchases made after 1/8/2021
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
We offer this engine with selected upgrades. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value. Most of these upgrades are low in cost considering the benefits they offer.
If you purchase a starter from us you will have to install it. There is no way for us to properly shim the starter (should it be needed) while the torque converter and transmission are not installed. The flexplate will change position when the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate. Some flexplates have a slight amount of run-out/warpage when the trans. and torque converter are not connected to it. This makes correct starter installation difficult. Only when you have the torque converter mounted to the flexplate can you properly install and adjust the starter.
Suggestion: While the engine is out of the car, still mounted on the engine stand, bolt up your torque converter to the flexplate. This will flatten out the flexplate to a great degree. Then, mount your starter on the engine. This is the only time you will have a birds eye view of the starter gear and ring gear from the back of the engine. You can see ifthe proper amount of mesh is there.
It's possible that once the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate, the position of the ring gear may move a slight bit more. The transmission shaft centers up to the torque converter, and this causes the flexplate to further change shape slightly. This may alter your initial starter adjustment, and if it does, you may need to do a light adjustment once the transmission is installed.
We strongly suggest using our Powermaster 9100 or 9400 starter on this engine. These starters have proven to be highly reliable, and offer excellent header clearance.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING.
For those with very heavy vehicles, such as 4x4 quad cab trucks, 3/4 ton trucks, and crew cab/ex-cab trucks, Suburbans, plus trucks that may do light to medium trailer towing, we recommend the de-tuned version of this engine.
For those wanting to run a supercharger, we recommend our extra deep dish pistons with the 75cc heads regardless of the vehicle.
Our machinists each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is done to exacting specs and with great care. Many vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have. We have built engines that cost upwards of $50,000. All of our engine builders have been in the engine machining and engine building line of work for their entire working lives. Their ages range from 40 to 67. We have a total of seven machinists/engine builders.
We have dyno tested the original creation of this engine with every cam and intake choice available extensively. We now include the engine test mule run at no additional cost. The engine is thoroughly tested for leaks, vibration, unusual noises, overall engine sound and feel.
THIS ENGINE IS BUILT WITH THE BEST AVAILABLE PARTS WITH CONSIDERATION TO KEEPING THE COST OF THIS ENGINE REASONABLE. WE'VE REVIEWED WHAT THE COMPETITION IS OFFERING, AND WE'RE CONVINCED THAT WE ARE OFFERING THE BEST VALUE FOR THE MONEY.
This engine is warranted, with limitations and exclusions as set forth below, for two years from date of sale.
- Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first year of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine both ways.
- Keep the crate your engine came in to ensure a safe return to our workshop.
- We do not cover the removal or re-installation of the engine at any time during the warranty period.
- Our engines must be used with a rev limiter. Should warranty issues arise, proof of the rev limiter use will be required.
- Should a problem occur in the first year of the warranty that we determine can be repaired by you or a qualified repair shop, upon our written approval, we will pay for the repair based on our in-house hourly rates for labor and our estimate of a reasonable amount of time to make the repair with the engine on a stand as you received it. To be specific, due to the difficulty of accessing certain engine parts in some vehicles, we are not responsible for the additional time and labor costs you may incur in removing and replacing such parts.
- In the second year, the warranty will cover all parts minus any labor to remove and install needed parts. The cost of shipping the engine to us is not covered in the second year of warranty.
- Tuning or maintenance are not covered under the warranty. Tuning includes jetting or adjusting the carb, ignition timing, or readjusting the rockers. Tuning would also include changing out plugs to optimize temp range for your needs. Setting ignition timing is also considered tuning. You must check the timing on this engine before it is driven.
- If you are not satisfied with the cam or intake you have chosen, we will exchange any of these items for up to 60 days. You will pay for shipping and any required labor.
- Damage due to overheating, detonation or extreme abuse will not be covered by the warranty. Detonation damage is evident upon removal of the cyl. heads.
- Engines used in marine applications will have a limited warranty of ONE year from date of sale. The first six months will cover parts and labor, and the second half of the one year period will cover parts only. Marine engines must upgrade to a 4340 crank unless the engine already comes with this, and the ARP-2000 rod bolts. SFI dampers are also required for all marine engines. Some of our engines come standard with the SFI damper.
- All external items on the engine, such as the carburetor, distributor, alternator, water pump, and power steering pump, will be warranted for the time period specified by the manufacturer. Most of these items have a warranty of one year or less.
- Our engines are custom built to your specifications (e.g., cam choice, intake, engine color, compression ratio, and upgrades).
- It is recommended that you re-torque the intake manifold after the first 1000 miles. The gasket sealant tends to shrink after a period of time and this may cause the intake bolts to lose their proper torque values. The torque range is approx. 25-30 lbs.
- The spark plug gaps should all be re-checked before you first start this engine. For those running an HEI distributor, the plug gap should be approx. .040-.045 Those running an MSD 6AL unit should gap the plugs to approx. .035-.040 These values are very controversial and you may experiment as to what runs best in your engine. Widening the gap too much can put a strain on the ignition components. Be sure your plug wires are completely fastened onto the spark plugs.
- If your engine came equipped with a front end accessory setup, we recommend that you check all of the bracket and pulley bolts. It would be rare to find any of them loose, and it should only take a few minutes to check. We would also like you check the belt alignment.
- Check your flexplate or flywheel bolts.
- Check fuel bowl levels in the sight glass on the carb once you have the engine running. Be sure your fuel pressure is set in the correct range of approx. 5.5-6.5 lbs. Adjust the choke on the carb. We would prefer you set the choke to a loose setting. Setting it tightly may allow it do its job better, but can cause engine damage over a period of time due to excess fuel entering the engine upon warm up. Be sure to use a high quality fuel filter. If your running an electric fuel pump you may not even need the choke. If your engine comes with one of our street strip carbs with a milled air horn, then you must run an electric fuel pump, as these high performance carbs do not come with a choke.
Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm. When the time comes to change your first oil filter, the Wix racing filter will most likely improve oil pressure. It will certainly improve oil flow, and GPM rating. The Wix Racing filters are a true racing filter, and have a micron rating of around 60. You will be required to change your oil and filter more frequently when using the Wix Racing filters. Around every 1500-2000 miles.
If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.
There are many special additives in true race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.
The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.
This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 5.5-6.5 psi. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. We believe that the electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system. If you decide to run a high volume mechanical fuel pump on this engine, then you must use the special polymer fuel pump rod that we offer, and you must also use a fuel pressure regulator, and gauge, set to approx. 6.0-6.5 psi. Only use engine oils with high levels of zinc compounds in them when running a mechanical fuel pump. This will protect the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the camshaft. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Racing oil. See our other listings for this oil.
You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.
We strongly recommend using a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase. The exhaust evac system we recommend is made by Moroso. The benefits are numerous as compared to the typical pcv system. Potential oil leaks are greatly reduced or eliminated by using the exhaust evac system.
Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed.
Drive safely please but keep your engine under load more than normal and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern. This is why race engines are dynoed: to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will partially seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls.
If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine, then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for full synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.
Some of our engines offer and extended capacity Champ oil pan that has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side and has a square flat bottom but depth is only about half an inch different from the stock style pan. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend opting for the stock appearing oil pan. This style pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4th to 1/2 a quart. Doing this may greatly reduce the chance of oil leaks, and reduce oil temps as well as other issues caused by windage. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts create a large amount of windage and are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines.
Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark if needed.
Your engine will be in a crate on a pallet, and you will receive a roll around engine cradle at no additional cost. The value of the engine cradle and lift plate is approx. $65.00 Your engine will also be fully insured.
Below are pictures showing how your engine is prepared for shipping. We start with a heavy duty pallet with an OSB base, then the engine is put on an engine cradle, (wheels are included) and bolted to the pallet with an engine lift plate installed on the intake and fully shrink wrapped to avoid scuffing the engine when removing the crate and this also protects the engine in the event the outer crate is knocked loose during shipping. We then build a heavy duty custom engine crate that is bolted and nailed onto the base over the engine and once again shrink wrap the complete crate for added strength. Prior to shipping you will be sent a close up picture showing your engine on the pallet including any other items you purchased with your engine.
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
Contact us for shipping cost for overseas delivery. We have excellent sources for low cost shipping anywhere in the world.
We have now included a flat rate shipping fee on this engine within the 48 continental states. This rate only applies to delivery to a business with the capability to unload the engine without the use of a lift gate. You must have a dock or fork lift. We can have the engine delivered to a residence with lift gate service but at an additional cost.
Our eBay user id is: skipwhite, and our eBay store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White." We are the original premier eBay seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other eBay names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article below for a more detailed explanation.
The real story...Skip White Performance vs. White Performance & Machine
I'm sure many of you have noticed there were 2 high performance engine builders in Kingsport, TN with similar names, leading to a great amount of confusion.
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