SBC CHEVY 383 STROKER STAGE 2.0 CRATE MOTOR AFR HEADS, 503 hp BASE ENGINE
|Product Type||Shipped Product|
|Number of reviews||0|
FULLY ASSEMBLED FROM INTAKE TO OIL PAN.
4.030" BORE X 3.750" STROKE
GM ROLLER BLOCK WITH 4 BOLT MAIN CAPS.
- AFR ENFORCER 200cc ALUMINUM ALLOY HEADS.
- COMP CAMS ROLLER CAM. A CUT ABOVE THE OTHERS.
- SA GEAR BILLET TIMING SET WITH TORRINGTON BEARING AND ROLON CHAIN 9 KEYWAY. TOP OF THE LINE.
- COMP HIGH ENERGY ALUMINUM ROCKERS 1.5 OR 1.6 RATIO.
- SCAT CRANKSHAFT, CLEVITE BEARINGS. BALANCED ON OUR CWT BALANCER TO BELOW 2 GRAMS.
- SCAT RODS WITH ARP 8740 CAP SCREWS.
- WISECO PREMIUM FORGED PISTONS. 800+HP RATED.
- MELLING M-SELECT SERIES OIL PUMP WITH M-SELECT DRIVE ROD.
- CHAMP OIL PAN WITH OIL CONTROL SYSTEM.
- PRO-SPORT SFI DAMPER.
- TWO YEAR WARRANTY.
This engine is designed for street/strip use. Pump gas friendly.
See our other listings for the fully dressed out turn-key version.
Two year warranty, see details below.
This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners. Cams #2 and #3 are our favorites for offering exceptional low end and mid range performance plus max drivability without needing to deepen final gearing or the need for a high stall speed torque converter.
If you choose to go with the Hurricane single plane intake and the first choice cam with 1.6 rockers, it will bring the hp numbers up to approx. 503. We do not recommend the single plane intake combined with cam choice 1 on any car that is over approx 3,400 lbs and/or cars with a steep (tall) final gear.
Please read the cam info provided below on the four cam choices before purchasing this engine. It is very important that you choose the correct cam and intake for your car and its intended purpose.
Here are a few good reasons why we think the 383 engine is a better choice than the 350 engine.
1. The 383 will accelerate most medium to heavy cars dramatically quicker than the common 350's on the market. The main difference between a 383 and the 350 is that the 383 torque comes in much lower. The difference is so dramatic that you would estimate the engine to have a much higher horsepower rating than it actually has. If you're not familiar with the 383 engine, do an internet search on SBC 383 vs 350, and you will be convinced of the difference.
2. The exhaust note that this engine produces is much deeper than that of any of the smaller cubic inch engines on the market. The difference is dramatic to say the least.
3. This engine can be installed in medium to heavier cars without killing acceleration, having to deepen the final gear, and needing a huge stall converter. This engine will accelerate a 3600 lb or heavier car much better than the 350.
4. Very low maintenance, decent drivability, yet costing only slightly more than building a 350 street rod engine. Horsepower will vary, depending on cam and intake choice. You have up to four different cams to choose from, and two styles of intake manifolds plus two rocker ratios.
5. Longevity, reliability and low maintenance. You don't have to turn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce its max hp output. There is nothing unsafe about running an engine that's as well built as this up to approx. 6,150 rpm. Our AFR Enforcer aluminum heads use very high quality hardware. The Wiseco Racing pistons are rated at 800+hp. The protection against detonation is at its highest with these type pistons.
6. Should you ever decide to sell your car, the resale value of a street rod with a 383 engine is very desirable compared to those running 350's. No 350 can be built up to the level of a 383 while running pump gas with the same compression. The power and torque numbers down low in the rpm band are what make the 383 such an incredible engine, compared to the 350.
We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
The build sheet is as follows:
The bare block is a fully machined re-manufactured true GM late model roller block. 1 pc. rear main seal style and designed for street or strip applications. All internals and external items in this engine are 100% brand new.
The compression range will be approx. 10.5:1. This setup will certainly generate the highest horsepower when coupled with our cam choice # 1. We do not see any problems with a 10.5:1 compression range in light to medium weight cars. For those choosing cam choice 3 we will lower the compression ratio slightly. The lower compression is all that's needed with the smaller cam, and this further increases reliability to a great extent. Fuel requirements can be lowered to mid grade 89-91 octane with the reduced compression, but do also consider the many other factors that increase the need for octane, such as outside temps, altitude, ignition timing, vehicle weight, gearing, payload, etc. We would prefer that you use premium fuel regardless of what setup you have choose. Were more or less on the thin line between mid-grade and premium fuel requirements with the reduced compression setup.
This 4 bolt main bare block used for this engine is an OEM late model GM roller block that has been fully reconditioned/re-manufactured. The rotating assembly and all other parts except the block are 100% brand new. This engine is set up with your choice of several different hydraulic roller cams.
The blocks used for building our Stage 2 roller cam 383 do have four bolt main caps.
Listed below are all the machining procedures performed on this block. These are 1 pc. rear main seal style.
Mains have been line-honed to factory specs. This important procedure is often skipped, and failure to do this usually results in a short-lived build.
Block has been bored and torque plate honed. The use of a torque plate when honing is a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market don't have this performed.
Pictured below is the rotating assembly that comes in this engine.
(file photo, actual parts may vary, see details below)
The photos above and below are file photos. Actual appearance may vary. This picture is to give you an idea of parts used in the rotating assembly portion of this engine. All parts are brand new, first line, unblemished, and balanced in house.
READ THIS LISTING COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BUY ELSEWHERE!
- Crankshaft: Genuine Scat Internally bal. front.
- Crankshaft Stroke: 3.750"
- Crankshaft Material : Cast Nodular
- Journal Diameter: STD SBC
- Rear Main Seal: 2pc RMS
- Rods: Genuine Scat
- Rod Type: Scat I-beam, Bronze Bushed.
- Rod Length: 5.7 or 6.0 Your Choice. We have pistons to accommodate both rods.
- Rod Material: Forged 4340 Alloy.
- Rod Bolt/Cap Screw: ARP 8740 Cap Screws.
- Pistons: Wiseco Fully Forged. High Performance for street/strip use.
- Piston Size: 4.030"
- Dome Volume: RD D-cup Dish. Comp. ratio calculates out to approx. 10.5:1
- Compression Height: 1.140 or 1.440 depending on rod length choice.
- Piston Material: Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy
- Piston Rings: Hastings High Performance, Moly, Standard Tension.
- Ring Size and Fit: 5/64 5/64 5/64.
- Ring Material: Cast/Stainless/Moly
- Main Bearings: Clevite
- Rod Bearings: Clevite
- Balance: In House on CWT balancer.
- Damper: Pro-Race brand Pro-Sport Series SFI 6.61"
- Flexplate: Heavy Duty SFI 168 tooth or 153 tooth. Manual Trans. flywheels available.
Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.
Our custom made pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller on bbc pistons, and .015 taller on sbc pistons, as compared to most all of the catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.
Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of the block. Our goal is set the piston at zero deck (flush with the deck surface). This maintains the deck's thickness, making it much stronger than a block that has been cut down .025. The engine will also run a bit cooler with a thicker deck. It's well known that the deck dissipates much of the built up heat an engine generates. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing without compromising the integrity of the block. On our bbc engines, we actually leave the piston about .003 to .005 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock. Our sbc engines will have the pistons setting right at zero with the deck.
These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups.
The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.
Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft:
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.
We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.
Our choice of rods are the Scat Pro Stock rods with ARP-8740 cap screws.
We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike some Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.
We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name, and series of every part used in our engines.
Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.
Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws.
Pro-Sport harmonic SFI damper, 6.61 diameter, included.
The SFI Pro-Sport damper Offers an extreme level of safety against breakage, and is very resistant against slippage of the elastomer damping material. SFI dampers are not only made from a better grade of steel, they are also constructed differently and have a much better appearance. They usually last much longer than a non-SFI damper. Many drag strips require this on engines producing high horse power levels. The SFI certification is laser etched into the side. Damper failure rates are much higher on engines using a non-sfi damper coupled with hp ratings exceeding 450 and turn 5600 rpm or higher.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
1.52" THICKNESS, 2.38" THICKNESS WITH HUB
HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.
This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your engine.
Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.
Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series, and ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.
We have had a vast amount of experience with the Dehphi hydraulic roller lifters. They are a good quality lifter and work well in our engines.
Howards brand are the only type of pushrod we use in our engines. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
We are offering several cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.
110 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Xtreme Energy Step Nose Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice, coupled with our single plane intake and our -7.5ccforged pistons with 1.5 rockers, will produce right at 503 horsepower at approx. 5,900 RPM. We recommend the dual plane intake for better drivability, and throttle response. The dual plane intake will move the torque down lower in the rpm range. The single plane intake would allow the engine to make its peak advertised horsepower at the peak rpm, but these type intakes move the torque band higher up in the rpm range. Expect a slight loss of top end power with the dual plane intake, but low speed drivability and cruising are greatly improved. If you car is in the lighter weight range and has a decent final gear, (3.55-3.73 or numerically higher), then you may select this build with our flat top pistons and 6 inch rods at no additional cost. The compression range is a bit on the high side, but considering the flat top pistons allow much better combustion, detonation is really not a problem. An octane boost additive would be recommended.
The single plane intake is not recommended for use in vehicles weighing over 3,800 lbs unless your vehicle is set up with a somewhat deep final gear, (3.55-3.73 ratio). Our cam timing components were left in the straight up position. Ignition timing was set at 34 degrees total and 93 octane fuel was used. During very hot weather, total timing should be set at 31-32 degrees. A final gear of approx. 3.73 or numerically higher, and a stall of approx. 2,500 would be the bare minimum. Preferably a stall speed of approx. 3,000 to 3,200 would be highly recommended, especially if you have chosen this setup with a single plane intake.
111 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Step Nose Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice is the perfect all around setup for those wanting a decent bottom and mid range while still generating excellent power at the top. Horsepower rating would drop off by approximately 25 with this cam when using the single plane intake and 1.6 rockers. This setup will generate its peak power at approx. 5600 RPM and this can vary depending on rocker and intake choice. Vacuum is increased with this cam compared to cam choice 1.
If your car is in the medium weight range or up to approx. 4,000 lbs, and you want slightly better streetability, then this is a very good cam choice. You still want to keep the final gear ratio at 3.55 or numerically higher. You may choose 1.5 or 1.6 rockers with this cam, but we recommend the 1.5 rockers if you would like to further improve low end response. A stall converter in the 2500 rpm or higher range would be suitable for this setup.
This cam should be paired up with the dual plane Crosswind intake for better drivability. The single plane Hurricane can be used, but the dual plane will have much better bottom end and mid range response. You can also expect a longer valve train life with this cam compared to the larger cam choice. This cam will also have a lopey idle, but not as radical as the larger cam above.
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with this cam choice, a single plane intake with 1.6 rockers and a Brawler 750 carb.
111 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Step Nose Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice has a lower lift and duration than the others offered above, and is highly recommended for use in heavy cars or full size sport trucks. The low end response and mid-range power with this cam is very good. Horsepower rating would be approx. between 405-420 depending on intake and rocker choice.
The rule of thumb for cam size: the smaller the cam in a given application, the better will be the low end response. One more benefit to the smaller cam is the reduced requirements for lower gearing and higher RPM stall converters. A final gear ratio of 3.30 would be acceptable with this cam.
This would be the only cam choice for running an overdrive transmission such as the 700R4 cruising at around 2000 RPM in overdrive. A stock stall converter may be used with this cam, but for improved acceleration, a 2000-2250 stall is recommended, especially in heavy vehicles with a tall final gear. If you are running an overdrive transmission, then choose this cam with the 1.5 ratio rockers, and the Edelbrock EPS intake.
Valve train life is greatly extended with this cam as compared to the others, and drivability is at its best. Low and mid throttle response is very strong. This cam choice will also produce the greatest amount of vacuum at idle compared to those listed above. You may run power brakes with this cam. This cam is best paired up with our Edelbrock EPS intake. This particular intake is offered at no extra cost. The EPS intake actually has amazing off idle power compared to any of the larger runner dual plane intakes. This intake is the most practical intake to select when you use this cam. Fuel mileage would be at its best with this cam and the EPS intake. We also run a lower compression piston with this combination, making the engine less prone to detonation.
THE CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD OR SPORT TRUCK.
You have a choice of single or dual plane intake. The single plane intake (1st pic below) should only be used on cars that are very lightweight and have good hood clearance.
We now offer the single plane intake in powder coated black finish as a $49.00 upgrade.
Dual Plane Intake shown below. This is a large runner dual plane intake. They make excellent mid range power.
Pictured below is the Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane intake. If you're going with cam choice # 2 or 3 and require more bottom end power, we strongly recommend this intake. This intake offers incredible low end response and has excellent hood clearance for those installing this engine in a C3 Corvette with a non-cowl stock hood.
304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
Pictured below are some of our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost for your engine.
The satin covers below are by far the most popular.
RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.
THE RETRO FINNED VALVE COVERS CONTRAST NICELY WITH THE CHROME AND POLISHED ITEMS.
Timing components: SA Gear 8999T billet double roller timing set.
Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.
We use the top of the line SA Gear timing set with a torrington bearing and rolon chain. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common low-cost timing set. The upper sprocket is made from billet steel and the lower is induction hardened with nine keyways. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.
The cost on this high end timing set is approx $125.00, more than double the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others.
This timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.
Champ premium oil pan.
If your engine is equipped with optional the 7 qt. Champ oil pan, it has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend the the stock appearing 5 qt. oil pan. The 5 qt. pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4th of a quart. Doing this may reduce the chance of oil leaks and reduce oil temps. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines. The higher capacity 7 quart oil pan is an optional upgrade on some of our engines.
To be clear on what we're saying, we would like to see you add right at 6.75 quarts of oil grand total in your engine and oil filter when using the higher capacity oil pan. When using the stock appearing oil pan, we would like to see you add right at 4.75 quarts grand total in your engine and oil filter.
Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark.
We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.
Pictured below is a file photo. The actual Felpro gasket used will be the correct model for this application.
We use our premium studded mini nut set on all of our oil pans and valve covers. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan and valve covers to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other engine builders. Our standard engine color is black. Custom paint work on engine blocks and oil pans is available as an optional upgrade. The pictures above and below are file photos to display the studded mini nuts. Other items seen in these pictures may not represent your actual engine.
Our new 383 engine is premium pump gas friendly, with very good street manners. NEVER run regular 87 octane in this engine, premium only unless you have opted for our de-tuned version with a reduced compression ratio. Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees.
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
We offer this engine with selected upgrades and options. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value.
This engine is warranted, with limitations and exclusions as set forth below, for two years from date of sale.
Schaeffer 191 Micron Moly 20W-50 Racing Oil
Zinc = 1900 ppm
Phosphorus = 1800 ppm
Soluble Moly = 350 ppm
Schaeffer 709 Racing Oil 10W30
Zinc = 2100 ppm
Phosphorus = 1800 ppm
Moly = 350 ppm
Zinc = 1400 ppm
Phosphorus 1300 ppm
Zinc = 1100 ppm
Phosphorus = 1000 ppm
A couple of things worth mentioning: Valvoline VR1 doesn't report any Moly in their oil. Schaeffer uses a soluble form of Moly that bonds to metal under heat, pressure, and movement. Once fully bonded, it takes over 500,000 psi per square inch. Schaeffer Oil has the best base stocks and additives that make it the best oil on the market.
Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm. When the time comes to change your first oil filter, the Wix racing filter will most likely improve oil pressure. It will certainly improve oil flow, and GPM rating. The Wix Racing filters are a true racing filter, and have a micron rating of around 60. You will be required to change your oil and filter more frequently when using the Wix Racing filters. Around every 1500-2000 miles.
If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.
There are many special additives in true race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.
The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.
This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 5.5-6.5 psi. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. We believe that the electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system. If you decide to run a high volume mechanical fuel pump on this engine, then you must use the special polymer fuel pump rod that we offer, and you must also use a fuel pressure regulator, and gauge, set to approx. 6.0-6.5 psi. Only use engine oils with high levels of zinc compounds in them when running a mechanical fuel pump. This will protect the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the camshaft. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Racing oil. See our other listings for this oil.
You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.
We strongly recommend using a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase. The exhaust evac system we recommend is made by Moroso. The benefits are numerous as compared to the typical pcv system. Potential oil leaks are greatly reduced or eliminated by using the exhaust evac system.
Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed.
Drive safely please but keep your engine under load more than normal and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern. This is why race engines are dynoed: to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will partially seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls.
If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine, then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for full synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.
Some of our engines offer and extended capacity Champ oil pan that has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side and has a square flat bottom but depth is only about half an inch different from the stock style pan. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend opting for the stock appearing oil pan. This style pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4th to 1/2 a quart. Doing this may greatly reduce the chance of oil leaks, and reduce oil temps as well as other issues caused by windage. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts create a large amount of windage and are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines.
Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark if needed.
Your engine will be in a crate on a pallet, and you will receive a roll around engine cradle at no additional cost. The value of the engine cradle and lift plate is approx. $65.00 Your engine will also be fully insured.
Below are pictures showing how your engine is prepared for shipping. We start with a heavy duty pallet with an OSB base, then the engine is put on an engine cradle, (wheels are included) and bolted to the pallet with an engine lift plate installed on the intake and fully shrink wrapped to avoid scuffing the engine when removing the crate and this also protects the engine in the event the outer crate is knocked loose during shipping. We then build a heavy duty custom engine crate that is bolted and nailed onto the base over the engine and once again shrink wrap the complete crate for added strength. Prior to shipping you will be sent a close up picture showing your engine on the pallet including any other items you purchased with your engine.
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
Our eBay user id is: skipwhite, and our eBay store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White." We are the original premier eBay seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other eBay names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article below for a more detailed explanation.
The real story...Skip White Performance vs. White Performance & Machine
I'm sure many of you have noticed there were 2 high performance engine builders in Kingsport, TN with similar names, leading to a great amount of confusion.
This product does not have any reviews yet.