Skip White Performance - We have the best prices you will ever find for aluminum heads, rotating assemblies and strokers
Skip White Performance
3349 E. Stone Dr.
Kingsport, TN 37660

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SBC CHEVY 383 STROKER STAGE 2.0 CRATE MOTOR AFR HEADS, 503 hp BASE ENGINE

Available

$6,995.00



Product Information

UPC333915779193
Product TypeShipped Product
Shipping Cost $435
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  SBC CHEVY STAGE 2.0 HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM 383 CUBIC INCH ENGINE 503 HP STREET ROD SETUP.
 
RUNS ON PUMP GAS.
This engine is fully assembled from intake to oil pan.
 
Important note.

Our eBay user id is: skipwhite, and our eBay store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White." We are the original premier eBay seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other eBay names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article in the lower part of this ad for a more detailed explanation

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ROLLER BLOCK WITH SPLAYED MAIN CAPS.
FORGED 4.030 BORE WISECO PISTONS, SCAT 3.750 STROKE CRANK, AND 5.7 or 6.0 SCAT RODS. AFR ENFORCER ALUMINUM HEADS.

FULLY ASSEMBLED FROM INTAKE TO OIL PAN.

 4.030" BORE X 3.750" STROKE

FINAL_PICS_(6)

GM ROLLER BLOCK WITH 4 BOLT MAIN CAPS.

- AFR ENFORCER 200cc ALUMINUM ALLOY HEADS.

- COMP CAMS ROLLER CAM. A CUT ABOVE THE OTHERS. 

- SA GEAR BILLET TIMING SET WITH TORRINGTON BEARING AND ROLON CHAIN 9 KEYWAY. TOP OF THE LINE.

- COMP HIGH ENERGY ALUMINUM ROCKERS 1.5 OR 1.6 RATIO. 

- SCAT CRANKSHAFT, CLEVITE BEARINGS. BALANCED ON OUR CWT BALANCER TO BELOW 2 GRAMS.

- SCAT RODS WITH ARP 8740 CAP SCREWS.

WISECO PREMIUM FORGED PISTONS. 800+HP RATED.

- MELLING M-SELECT SERIES OIL PUMP WITH M-SELECT DRIVE ROD.

- CHAMP OIL PAN WITH OIL CONTROL SYSTEM.

PRO-RACE BRAND DAMPER.

- TWO YEAR WARRANTY.

This engine is designed for street/strip use. Pump gas friendly. 

See our other listings for the fully dressed out turn-key version. 

Two year warranty, see details below. 

This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners. Cams #2 and #3 are our favorites for offering exceptional low end and mid range performance plus max drivability without needing to deepen final gearing or the need for a high stall speed torque converter.  

If you choose to go with the Hurricane single plane intake and the first choice cam with 1.6 rockers, it will bring the hp numbers up to approx. 503. We do not recommend the single plane intake combined with cam choice 1 on any car that is over approx 3,400 lbs and/or cars with a steep (tall) final gear. 

Please read the cam info provided below on the four cam choices before purchasing this engine. It is very important that you choose the correct cam and intake for your car and its intended purpose. 

Here are a few good reasons why we think the 383 engine is a better choice than the 350 engine.

1. The 383 will accelerate most medium to heavy cars dramatically quicker than the common 350's on the market. The main difference between a 383 and the 350 is that the 383 torque comes in much lower.  The difference is so dramatic that you would estimate the engine to have a much higher horsepower rating than it actually has. If you're not familiar with the 383 engine, do an internet search on SBC 383 vs 350, and you will be convinced of the difference.  

2. The exhaust note that this engine produces is much deeper than that of any of the smaller cubic inch engines on the market. The difference is dramatic to say the least.   

3. This engine can be installed in medium to heavier cars without killing acceleration, having to deepen the final gear, and needing a huge stall converter. This engine will accelerate a 3600 lb or heavier car much better than the 350. 

4. Very low maintenance, decent drivability, yet costing only slightly more than building a 350 street rod engine. Horsepower will vary, depending on cam and intake choice. You have up to four different cams to choose from, and two styles of intake manifolds plus two rocker ratios.   

5. Longevity, reliability and low maintenance. You don't have to turn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce its max hp output. There is nothing unsafe about running an engine that's as well built as this up to approx. 6,150 rpm. Our AFR Enforcer aluminum heads use very high quality hardware. The Wiseco Racing pistons are rated at 800+hp. The protection against detonation is at its highest with these type pistons. 

6. Should you ever decide to sell your car, the resale value of a street rod with a 383 engine is very desirable compared to those running 350's. No 350 can be built up to the level of a 383 while running pump gas with the same compression. The power and torque numbers down low in the rpm band are what make the 383 such an incredible engine, compared to the 350.

We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.

As of 9/15/2013 we completed installation of our brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. In the past, we outsourced our dyno work. We were unable to do the research and development we truly wanted, and this prompted us to make the $105,000 investment. It's been one of the best investments we have ever made. Every aspect of our engines can now be monitored, calibrated, and tuned. Best of all, we can now see what combos generate the best power, with consideration to drivability.

One thing we have noticed is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have less top end horsepower than expected, but the torque increase in the low rpm range is much greater than in the higher horsepower setup. This increase in torque down low is what you want if you're sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.

The build sheet is as follows:

The bare block is a fully machined re-manufactured true GM late model roller block. 1 pc. rear main seal style and designed for street or strip applications. All internals and external items in this engine are 100% brand new.

The compression range will be approx. 10.5:1. This setup will certainly generate the highest horsepower when coupled with our cam choice # 1. We do not see any problems with a 10.5:1 compression range in light to medium weight cars. For those choosing cam choice 3 we will lower the compression ratio slightly. The lower compression is all that's needed with the smaller cam, and this further increases reliability to a great extent. Fuel requirements can be lowered to mid grade 89-91 octane with the reduced compression, but do also consider the many other factors that increase the need for octane, such as outside temps, altitude, ignition timing, vehicle weight, gearing, payload, etc. We would prefer that you use premium fuel regardless of what setup you have choose. Were more or less on the thin line between mid-grade and premium fuel requirements with the reduced compression setup.

This 4 bolt main bare block used for this engine is an OEM late model GM roller block that has been fully reconditioned/re-manufactured. The rotating assembly and all other parts except the block are 100% brand new. This engine is set up with your choice of several different hydraulic roller cams.

The blocks used for building our Stage 2 roller cam 383 do have four bolt main caps. 

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These blocks will accept mechanical fuel pumps.
 
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As you can see in the picture above, this is a true roller block. 

Listed below are all the machining procedures performed on this block. These are 1 pc. rear main seal style. 

Mains have been line-honed to factory specs. This important procedure is often skipped, and failure to do this usually results in a short-lived build.

Block has been bored and torque plate honed. The use of a torque plate when honing is a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market don't have this performed. 

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Pictured below is the rotating assembly that comes in this engine.

(file photo, actual parts may vary, see details below)

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The photos above and below are file photos. Actual appearance may vary. This picture is to give you an idea of parts used in the rotating assembly portion of this engine. All parts are brand new, first line, unblemished, and balanced in house. 

READ THIS LISTING COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BUY ELSEWHERE! 

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Crankshaft Specs. 

  • Crankshaft: Genuine Scat Internally bal. front.
  • Crankshaft Stroke: 3.750" 
  • Crankshaft Material : Cast Nodular 
  • Journal Diameter: STD SBC 
  • Rear Main Seal: 2pc RMS
Connecting Rod Specs.
  • Rods: Genuine Scat 
  • Rod Type: Scat I-beam, Bronze Bushed.
  • Rod Length: 5.7 or 6.0 Your Choice. We have pistons to accommodate both rods.
  • Rod Material: Forged 4340 Alloy.
  • Rod Bolt/Cap Screw: ARP 8740 Cap Screws.
Piston & Ring Specs. 
  • Pistons: Wiseco Fully Forged. High Performance for street/strip use.
  • Piston Size: 4.030"
  • Dome Volume: RD D-cup Dish. Comp. ratio calculates out to approx. 10.5:1
  • Compression Height: 1.140 or 1.440 depending on rod length choice.
  • Piston Material: Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy
  • Piston Rings: Hastings High Performance, Moly, Standard Tension.
  • Ring Size and Fit: 5/64 5/64 5/64.
  • Ring Material: Cast/Stainless/Moly
Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.
  • Main Bearings: Clevite
  • Rod Bearings:  Clevite
  • Balance: In House on CWT balancer.
  • Damper: Pro-Race brand 6.75"  
  • Flexplate: Heavy Duty SFI 168 tooth or 153 tooth. Manual Trans. flywheels available. 

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Flat or Dish top pistons will be used depending on Cam selection.

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The Wiseco forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They 
are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns. We prefer the 2618 alloy over the lower cost 4032 alloy. This alloy may fragment from the effects of detonation and if this happens, it can be very destructive to the engine. 
Those types of pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but should never be used in  carbureted engines built to high horse power levels. 
 
The forged 2618 alloy piston is much more resistant to the effects of detonation and heat. 

Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.

Our custom made pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller on bbc pistons, and .015 taller on sbc pistons, as compared to most all of the catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature. 

Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of the block. Our goal is set the piston at zero deck (flush with the deck surface). This maintains the deck's thickness, making it much stronger than a block that has been cut down .025. The engine will also run a bit cooler with a thicker deck. It's well known that the deck dissipates much of the built up heat an engine generates. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing without compromising the integrity of the block. On our bbc engines, we actually leave the piston about .003 to .005 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock. Our sbc engines will have the pistons setting right at zero with the deck.

 
You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only. This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing. 
 
 
We have built approximately 5000 engines using the Wiseco pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor have there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect.
 

These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups.

 

The pictures below are file photos of our Wiseco pistons. Flash glare on the piston top seems to have enhanced the milling marks. These are hardly visible with the naked eye. 

Flat or dish pistons, depending on cam choice. 5.7 or 6.0 inch piston and rod combinations available

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HASTINGS HIGH PERFORMANCE MOLY RINGS

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Scat Crankshaft

The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.

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Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft: 

The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.  

Crank Polishing.

Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down considerably. 

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We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines. 

 
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Our choice of rods are the Scat Pro Stock rods with ARP-8740 cap screws. 

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We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike some Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy. 

We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name, and series of every part used in our engines.

Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.

Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws.

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PRO RACE BRAND HARMONIC DAMPER, 6.75 DIAMETER, INCLUDED. 

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Pro-Race brand damper is used on all of our engines.

 6.75" DIAMETER REDUCED ROTATIONAL MASS, OFFERS EXCELLENT CLEARANCE. 

BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.

We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines. 

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1.52" THICKNESS, 2.38" THICKNESS WITH HUB

HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED. 

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This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.  

We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.

 Our CWT 5500 Balancer.

We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your engine. 

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Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight. 

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Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.

AFR-1400x600_(2)

AFR Enforcer 65cc 200cc ALUMINUM HEADS
 
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The AFR Logo's clearly display the true mark of excellence that these heads are known for.
 
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In the flowchart below, the AFR Enforcer heads are superior to the Procomp/Speedmaster heads in flow rates, and also edge out the Dart SHP heads on the intake side. The intake numbers are far more important than the exhaust. The overall average flow numbers on the AFR heads are higher than most any brand of non cnc'd cast aluminum heads on the market of an equal runner size.
 
HEADFLOW_FOR_post
 
Notice the intake ports on the AFR Enforcer heads. They allow for a perfect fit with most intakes on the market. Our engines all include an intake manifold. The picture below is one of our engines in the build process.
 
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The difference in horsepower and torque generated by the AFR Enforcer heads is monumental compared to any of the low cost sbc heads on the market.
 
Assembled by AFR with premium  metric competition grade valves, Pacaloy dual springs, Viton valve seals, Comp spring ID locators.

Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series, and ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.

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Comp Cams High Energy Aluminum Roller Rockers.

Important notice.

If you've read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell non branded, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces. 

We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long. 

We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.

We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble.

We use Comp High Energy, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum, Comp Gold Arc, Scorpion Race and Endurance Series rockers in all of our engines. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge. 

Delphi Anti Pump up lifters.

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We have had a vast amount of experience with the Dehphi hydraulic roller lifters. They are a good quality lifter and work well in our engines. 

 

Howards Brand Chromoly One pc. Pushrods.

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Howards brand are the only type of pushrod we use in our engines. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.

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We are offering several cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.

 

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Cam Choice #1
 
Special Grind # 33161
 
PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-11323
 
520/540 lift

236/242 duration

110 lobe sep.

Comp Cams SBC Xtreme Energy Step Nose Hydraulic Roller Camshafts. 

This cam choice, coupled with our single plane intake and our -7.5cc

 forged pistons with 1.5 rockers, will produce right at 503 horsepower at approx. 5,900 RPM. We recommend the dual plane intake for better drivability, and throttle response. The dual plane intake will move the torque down lower in the rpm range. The single plane intake would allow the engine to make its peak advertised horsepower at the peak rpm, but these type intakes move the torque band higher up in the rpm range. Expect a slight loss of top end power with the dual plane intake, but low speed drivability and cruising are greatly improved. If you car is in the lighter weight range and has a decent final gear, (3.55-3.73 or numerically higher), then you may select this build with our flat top pistons and 6 inch rods at no additional cost. The compression range is a bit on the high side, but considering the flat top pistons allow much better combustion, detonation is really not a problem. An octane boost additive would be recommended. 

 

The single plane intake is not recommended for use in vehicles weighing over 3,800 lbs unless your vehicle is set up with a somewhat deep final gear, (3.55-3.73 ratio). Our cam timing components were left in the straight up position. Ignition timing was set at 34 degrees total and 93 octane fuel was used. During very hot weather, total timing should be set at 31-32 degrees. A final gear of approx. 3.73 or numerically higher, and a stall of approx. 2,500 would be the bare minimum. Preferably a stall speed of approx. 3,000 to 3,200 would be highly recommended, especially if you have chosen this setup with a single plane intake.

 

Below are our dyno results on one of our 383 engines with this cam choice with a single plane intake and the 1.5 rockers. Results will vary depending on intake and rocker choice. The horse power numbers will usually improve anywhere from 5-10 HP more than what the dyno results show after the rings have fully seated. 
 
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with this cam choice, a single plane intake with 1.5 rockers, a Brawler carburetor, and an HEI distributor.
 
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Important note.  

 

If you choose cam choice 1 with the single plane intake combination, it is highly recommended that you upgrade the ignition system to an MSD Pro Billet distributor and CDI unit. You may also want to upgrade the carburetor to the Brawler dual pumper series. The acceleration and overall performance is greatly enhanced with the Brawler mechanical secondary carburetor.  These important upgrades are essential for improved tuning, idling and overall performance. If you do decide to use the MSD Pro Billet distributor, we suggest you use the black timing degree bushing to increase the initial timing and possibly the lighter springs to control how soon the mechanical advance comes in. You may even "lock-out" the distributor, depending on your car's overall setup. The CDI unit will make a huge improvement in how the engine runs at idle and low speed cruising, as well as high rpm operation. 

 

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Cam choice #2
 
Special Grind # 33151
 
PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-11480
 
510/525 lift

230/238 duration

111 lobe sep.

Comp Cams SBC Step Nose Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts. 

This cam choice  is the perfect all around setup for those wanting a decent bottom and mid range while still generating excellent power at the top. Horsepower rating would drop off by approximately 25 with this cam when using the single plane intake and 1.6 rockers. This setup will generate its peak power at approx. 5600 RPM and this can vary depending on rocker and intake choice. Vacuum is increased with this cam compared to cam choice 1. 

If your car is in the medium weight range or up to approx. 4,000 lbs, and you want slightly better streetability, then this is a very good cam choice. You still want to keep the final gear ratio at 3.55 or numerically higher. You may choose 1.5 or 1.6 rockers with this cam, but we recommend the 1.5 rockers if you would like to further improve low end response. A stall converter in the 2500 rpm or higher range would be suitable for this setup.

This cam should be paired up with the dual plane Crosswind intake for better drivability. The single plane Hurricane can be used, but the dual plane will have much better bottom end and mid range response. You can also expect a longer valve train life with this cam compared to the larger cam choice. This cam will also have a lopey idle, but not as radical as the larger cam above.

Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with this cam choice, a single plane intake with 1.6 rockers and a Brawler 750 carb.

510/525 dyno 383 photo fe56a2ba-7943-4361-9909-5568eb89da55.jpg 

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Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with this cam choice, a single plane intake with 1.5 rockers and a Sniper EFI system.

 
 
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Cam choice #3
 
PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-13436
 
498/502 lift

220/226 duration

111 lobe sep.

Comp Cams SBC Step Nose Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts. 

This cam choice has a lower lift and duration than the others offered above, and is highly recommended for use in heavy cars or full size sport trucks. The low end response and mid-range power with this cam is very good. Horsepower rating would be approx. between 405-420 depending on intake and rocker choice. 

The rule of thumb for cam size: the smaller the cam in a given application, the better will be the low end response. One more benefit to the smaller cam is the reduced requirements for lower gearing and higher RPM stall converters. A final gear ratio of 3.30 would be acceptable with this cam. 

This would be the only cam choice for running an overdrive transmission such as the 700R4 cruising at around 2000 RPM in overdrive. A stock stall converter may be used with this cam, but for improved acceleration, a 2000-2250 stall is recommended, especially in heavy vehicles with a tall final gear. If you are running an overdrive transmission, then choose this cam with the 1.5 ratio rockers, and the Edelbrock EPS intake. 

Valve train life is greatly extended with this cam as compared to the others, and drivability is at its best. Low and mid throttle response is very strong. This cam choice will also produce the greatest amount of vacuum at idle compared to those listed above. You may run power brakes with this cam. This cam is best paired up with our Edelbrock EPS intake. This particular intake is offered at no extra cost. The EPS intake actually has amazing off idle power compared to any of the larger runner dual plane intakes. This intake is the most practical intake to select when you use this cam. Fuel mileage would be at its best with this cam and the EPS intake. We also run a lower compression piston with this combination, making the engine less prone to detonation. 

Official dyno results with this cam, 1.5 rockers, dual plane EPS intake, SL-600 carburetor, NKB heads, and an HEI distributor. Notice the rpm range where we started this dyno run with this cam. We are unable to start a run at this low of an rpm with any of the larger cams used in a 383 engine. The torque numbers this cam produces in the off idle range would be far greater with this cam and intake combo than with any of the larger cam selections.
 
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THE CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD OR SPORT TRUCK.

You have a choice of single or dual plane intake. The single plane intake (1st pic below) should only be used on cars that are very lightweight and have good hood clearance. 

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We now offer the single plane intake in powder coated black finish as a $49.00 upgrade. 

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Dual Plane Intake shown below. This is a large runner dual plane intake. They make excellent mid range power.

Pictured below is the Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane intake. If you're going with cam choice # 2 or 3 and require more bottom end power, we strongly recommend this intake. This intake offers incredible low end response and has excellent hood clearance for those installing this engine in a C3 Corvette with a non-cowl stock hood. 

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304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.

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Pictured below are some of our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost for your engine.

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The satin covers below are by far the most popular.

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RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.

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THE RETRO FINNED VALVE COVERS CONTRAST NICELY WITH THE CHROME AND POLISHED ITEMS.

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Timing components: SA Gear 8999T billet double roller timing set.

Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.

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We use the top of the line SA Gear timing set with a torrington bearing and rolon chain. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common low-cost timing set. The upper sprocket is made from billet steel and the lower is induction hardened with nine keyways. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing. 

The cost on this high end timing set is approx $125.00, more than double the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others. 

This timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.

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Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.
 
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The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.

Champ premium oil pan.

If your engine is equipped with optional the 7 qt. Champ oil pan, it has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend the the stock appearing 5 qt. oil pan. The 5 qt. pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4th of a quart. Doing this may reduce the chance of oil leaks and reduce oil temps. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines. The higher capacity 7 quart oil pan is an optional upgrade on some of our engines. 

To be clear on what we're saying, we would like to see you add right at 6.75 quarts of oil grand total in your engine and oil filter when using the higher capacity oil pan. When using the stock appearing oil pan, we would like to see you add right at 4.75 quarts grand total in your engine and oil filter. 

Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark.

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We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.

Pictured below is a file photo. The actual Felpro gasket used will be the correct model for this application.

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Studded Mini Nut Set. 

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We use our premium studded mini nut set on all of our oil pans and valve covers. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan and valve covers to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other engine builders. Our standard engine color is black. Custom paint work on engine blocks and oil pans is available as an optional upgrade. The pictures above and below are file photos to display the studded mini nuts. Other items seen in these pictures may not represent your actual engine.

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Our new 383 engine is premium pump gas friendly, with very good street manners. NEVER run regular 87 octane in this engine, premium only unless you have opted for our de-tuned version with a reduced compression ratio. Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees. 

We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.

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We offer this engine with selected upgrades and options. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value.

We offer premium grade Ram brand SFI Billet Steel flywheels for manual transmission use at an additional cost. See our other listings. This engine includes a flexplate for automatic transmission use at no additional cost.

 

When purchasing a flywheel for manual transmission use, be sure to know what tooth count you need. There are two sizes available, and it is of the utmost importance to select the flywheel that is correct for this engine. There are several factors that must be addressed when choosing your correct flywheel. The tooth count must be correct. This is very important. There are two sizes available, and it is the bellhousing size on the transmission that determines this. Another important factor is if the engine your purchasing is internally balanced often referred to as neutral balanced or if it is an externally balanced engine, often referred to as externally balanced. Big block and small block engines will also have a different bolt pattern in most cases. To sum it up, there are three important factors to look for when selecting the correct flywheel, tooth count, int. or ext bal. and whether or not you purchasing a big block or small block engine. The Ram brand flywheels we offer are very high quality. See our other listings for a complete line of the Ram brand SFI flywheels. 

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SFI damper: Offers an extreme level of safety against breakage, and is very resistant against slippage of the elastomer damping material. SFI dampers are not only made from a better grade of steel, they are also constructed differently and have a much better appearance. They usually last much longer than a non-SFI damper. Many drag strips require this on engines producing high horse power levels. The SFI certification is laser etched into the side.

Cost of this SFI damper upgrade is $69.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart.  Click here to add upgrades

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Edelbrock RPM Airgap intake upgrade:The Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap intake manifold incorporates race-winning technology. The open air space separates the runners from the hot engine oil, and as a result, the air/fuel mixture stays cooler for a denser charge and more power. Includes rear water outlets, two distributor clamp locations and nitrous bosses. Accepts all late model alternator and A/C brackets for the street.

Cost of this upgrade is $125.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart.  Click here to add upgrades.

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Dyno Tuning (Carbureted Engines): This is one of the most important upgrade/options we offer. There are many benefits to this service. The engine is first run at fast idle to bring the water and oil temp up to normal operating temperature. It is then run for approx. 20 minutes under a simulated load at around 3k rpm to promote initial ring seating. After this, the engine is shut down to allow us to check the readings on the spark plugs, and for any possible oil leaks. This cool down is considered part of the engine's first heat cycle. We then follow up with multiple low to medium rpm runs to further the break-in process of all the moving parts in the engine. During these multiple runs, we are paying close attention to the EGT (exhaust gas temp) readings, vacuum pump readings, oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, and overall engine sound. At this point, we start the actual dyno tuning process and this focuses around the air to fuel ratio numbers and what timing numbers produce peak power. We usually have to change carb. jetting several times, adjust the idle circuits, and the air-bleeds occasionally have to be changed. We then establish the engine's full horse power and torque numbers at a given rpm limit.

Having your engine dyno tuned will allow it to run at its absolute best, and is very important in protecting the engine from potential damage caused by the carburetor running excessively rich or lean. This also establishes the engine's hp output and max rpm. These numbers are very important to know. There is one more value that we consider just as important to what we have mentioned above. An engine that has been dyno tuned has also been validated to be in perfect operating condition. This is something that running the engine on a test mule can't provide. Any problems the engine may have will show up during the dyno tuning process. We have on rare occasion seen a popular combination show hp numbers that were not where they should be. Some of these problems give no indication other than reduced hp numbers. We find and fix such problems. The problem may be something simple and easy to find and in some cases very difficult to pinpoint. We will not send the engine out until it's perfect. If you choose not to purchase the dyno tuning package, we will still do a test mule run, as many engine builders do, and it certainly is better than nothing but pales in comparison to a full dyno tuning. When engines are dyno tuned, the chances of you having a problem are near non-existent. Unforeseen problems may still occur, but they are rare. We have kept the cost on this extensive procedure low to not only make it affordable, but it gives us great peace of mind knowing the engine will be in perfect operating condition when it is received. The cost to do a repair once the engine is installed can be very expensive for both us as the seller and for the customer. When you see the final dyno run of your engine on youtube, consider the fact that approximately five man hours, around $25.00 worth of fuel, oil and filter, and $105K worth of dyno equipment went into making that one minute final test run video.

Cost of the full dyno tune option for carbureted engines is $350.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart.  Click here to add upgrades.

Cost of the full dyno tune option for engines with EFI fuel systems will be $100 more.

Pictured below is one of our actual Super Flow dyno's. This is a 2016 model and highly advanced compared to the much older models many shops have. We have two of these in use at our shop.

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The Super Flow is the best dyno in the industry.
 
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WARRANTY INFORMATION

 

This engine is warranted, with limitations and exclusions as set forth below, for two years from date of sale.

  • Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first year of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine both ways. 
  • Keep the crate your engine came in to ensure a safe return to our workshop.
  • We do not cover the removal or re-installation of the engine at any time during the warranty period. 
  • Our engines must be used with a rev limiter. Should warranty issues arise, proof of the rev limiter use will be required.
  • Should a problem occur in the first year of the warranty that we determine can be repaired by you or a qualified repair shop, upon our written approval, we will pay for the repair based on our in-house hourly rates for labor and our estimate of a reasonable amount of time to make the repair with the engine on a stand as you received it. To be specific, due to the difficulty of accessing certain engine parts in some vehicles, we are not responsible for the additional time and labor costs you may incur in removing and replacing such parts.
  • In the second year, the warranty will cover all parts minus any labor to remove and install needed parts. The cost of shipping the engine to us is not covered in the second year of warranty.
  • Tuning or maintenance are not covered under the warranty. Tuning includes jetting or adjusting the carb, ignition timing, or readjusting the rockers. Tuning would also include changing out plugs to optimize temp range for your needs. Setting ignition timing is also considered tuning. You must check the timing on this engine before it is driven.
  • If you are not satisfied with the cam or intake you have chosen, we will exchange any of these items for up to 60 days. You will pay for shipping and any required labor.
  • Damage due to overheating, detonation or extreme abuse will not be covered by the warranty. Detonation damage is evident upon removal of the cyl. heads. 
  • Engines used in marine applications will have a limited warranty of ONE year from date of sale. The first six months will cover parts and labor, and the second half of the one year period will cover parts only. Marine engines must upgrade to a 4340 crank unless the engine already comes with this, and the ARP-2000 rod bolts. SFI dampers are also required for all marine engines. Some of our engines come standard with the SFI damper.  
  • All external items on the engine, such as the carburetor, distributor, alternator, water pump, and power steering pump, will be warranted for the time period specified by the manufacturer. Most of these items have a warranty of one year or less.
  • Our engines are custom built to your specifications (e.g., cam choice, intake, engine color, compression ratio, and upgrades).  

You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by racing or improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem.

Your carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone. We strongly recommend the use of our new line of ATM carburetors. They are of exceptional quality.

 

Pre-Installation/Pre-Run Recommendations. 

 

  • It is recommended that you re-torque the intake manifold after the first 1000 miles. The gasket sealant tends to shrink after a period of time and this may cause the intake bolts to lose their proper torque values. The torque range is approx. 25-30 lbs. 
  • The spark plug gaps should all be re-checked before you first start this engine. For those running an HEI distributor, the plug gap should be approx. .040-.045 Those running an MSD 6AL unit should gap the plugs to approx. .035-.040 These values are very controversial and you may experiment as to what runs best in your engine. Widening the gap too much can put a strain on the ignition components. Be sure your plug wires are completely fastened onto the spark plugs. 
  • If your engine came equipped with a front end accessory setup, we recommend that you check all of the bracket and pulley bolts. It would be rare to find any of them loose, and it should only take a few minutes to check. We would also like you check the belt alignment. 
  • Check your flexplate or flywheel bolts. 
  • Check fuel bowl levels in the sight glass on the carb once you have the engine running. Be sure your fuel pressure is set in the correct range of approx. 5.5-6.5 lbs. Adjust the choke on the carb. We would prefer you set the choke to a loose setting. Setting it tightly may allow it do its job better, but can cause engine damage over a period of time due to excess fuel entering the engine upon warm up. Be sure to use a high quality fuel filter. If your running an electric fuel pump you may not even need the choke. If your engine comes with one of our street strip carbs with a milled air horn, then you must run an electric fuel pump, as these high performance carbs do not come with a choke.

You may not find a problem with any of the items mentioned above, but considering the small amount of time it takes to check them, we find it to be a valuable preventive measure.

 

As it's been said, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

 

Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the recommendations listed below.

Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations.

This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such as our Schaeffer brand racing oil. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Micron Moly 20w-50 grade in warm to hot weather. The part number for this oil is 0191-012, or you may run the 10w-30 weight Schaeffer Supreme 7000 series semi synthetic oil in cooler weather. The part number for this oil is 709-012 for the full case. After the engine is fully broken in, you may move over the Schaeffer full synthetic oil. The Schaeffer brand oil is very highly rated. It is the only brand of oil we use when dyno tuning. Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal. We offer a full line of this oil in our other listings. 

Here is a brief outline of the average additive levels in the Schaeffer Oils as compared to Valvoline VR1. We only use Schaeffer 20w-50 oil in our dyno room, and strongly recommend its use in our engines. The 10W-30 7000 series oil is totally acceptable to use once the engine is broke in especially in cool weather. The 20W-50 Micron Moly is also an excellent choice to use in warm weather. Continue reading for info on what type oil filters to use.

 
​Schaeffer ​191 Micron Moly 20W-50 Racing Oil
Zinc = 1900 ppm
Phosphorus = 1800 ppm
Soluble Moly = 350 ppm
 
​Schaeffer ​709 Racing Oil 10W30
Zinc = 2100 ppm
Phosphorus = 1800 ppm
Moly = 350 ppm
 
Valvoline VR1
20W50
Zinc = 1400 ppm
Phosphorus 1300 ppm
Valvoline VR1
10W30
Zinc = 1100 ppm
Phosphorus = 1000 ppm
 
A couple of things worth mentioning: Valvoline VR1 doesn't report any Moly in their oil. Schaeffer uses a soluble form of Moly that bonds to metal under heat, pressure, and movement.  Once fully bonded, it takes over 500,000 psi per square inch. Schaeffer Oil has the best base stocks and additives that make it the best oil on the market. 

This engine does not come with oil in it. The oil that was used during the test run or dyno tuning will be drained as this is required by the shipping companies. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for metal particles. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris.

 

Oil Filter Recommendations 

Racing oil filters such as the Wix Racing oil filter may only be used after the engine is completely broken in and we would prefer that you stay with the 20W-50 Shaeffer oil when running the racing filter. These racing filters have a very loose media and provide very little resistance and a high oil flow volume, but due to the loose media, they don't filter small particles of debris from the oil. They are only to be used on engines that do not see high mileage use, and have gone through one or two oil changes with low micron rated filters.

 

To prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet, we re-install an extended life high quality Summit oil filter. These filters are very good quality, and made by Purolator. This oil filter that we supply has an internal by-pass valve in it and is rated at 25 micron filtration. Run the oil and filter for a period of approx. 500 miles, and be sure to warm the engine up to complete operating temp before going above 2500 rpm. The part number for the Summit/Purolator oil filter we use is 127007 for the short version, and 127004 for the medium length. Wix Racing filter part number is 51061R for the medium length version, and 51069R for the short version. As mentioned the racing filters are ONLY to be used for reduced mileage driving, and must be changed along with the engine oil more often than the more restrictive filters. The racing filter is not to be used as the first filter on a brand new engine.

You may wonder why we're using an extended life oil filter but want it replaced in such a short period. These extended life oil filters are an excellent choice for a brand new engine. They have a much larger capacity for the higher amount of debris developed from the new engine. They also have better designed bypass valves and stronger cases on them. All of these features are essential to a brand new engine when debris levels are highest until the engine is fully broke-in.

Our engines are now equipped with a billet oil filter adapter that requires the use of an oil filter that has its own by-pass valve in it, unless you are using a true racing filter. The racing filters do not require the by-pass valve in them due to the fact they have such a loose media. Always opt for the medium length version, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version. If your headers are an issue with the medium length filter, then the shorty version is acceptable.

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Billet aluminum oil filter adapter.

Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm. When the time comes to change your first oil filter, the Wix racing filter will most likely improve oil pressure. It will certainly improve oil flow, and GPM rating. The Wix Racing filters are a true racing filter, and have a micron rating of around 60. You will be required to change your oil and filter more frequently when using the Wix Racing filters. Around every 1500-2000 miles.

 

If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.

 

There are many special additives in true race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.

 

The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.

 

This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 5.5-6.5 psi. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. We believe that the electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system. If you decide to run a high volume mechanical fuel pump on this engine, then you must use the special polymer fuel pump rod that we offer, and you must also use a fuel pressure regulator, and gauge, set to approx. 6.0-6.5 psi. Only use engine oils with high levels of zinc compounds in them when running a mechanical fuel pump. This will protect the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the camshaft. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Racing oil. See our other listings for this oil.

 

You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required.  A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.

 

We strongly recommend using a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase. The exhaust evac system we recommend is made by Moroso. The benefits are numerous as compared to the typical pcv system. Potential oil leaks are greatly reduced or eliminated by using the exhaust evac system.

 

Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed.

 

Drive safely please but keep your engine under load more than normal and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern. This is why race engines are dynoed: to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will partially seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls.

 

If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine, then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for full synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.

 

VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE.

You must prime your new oil filter. Priming is not needed when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. If your new engine has been sitting around for weeks, or possibly months, then you must prime the oil filter.

Some of our engines offer and extended capacity Champ oil pan that has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side and has a square flat bottom but depth is only about half an inch different from the stock style pan. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend opting for the stock appearing oil pan. This style pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4th to 1/2 a quart. Doing this may greatly reduce the chance of oil leaks, and reduce oil temps as well as other issues caused by windage. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts create a large amount of windage and are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines.

Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark if needed.

More tuning recommendations. Very important.

You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct. We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor. Proper carb jetting is also a must. If you purchased the dyno package from us then the fuel to air ratio on your carburetor will be tuned within the safe ranges.

 

If you are using your own carb. on this engine, then you must be sure the fuel to air ratio is correct. If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.

 

If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly, not to mention cause excessive fuel consumption.

 

A tad on the rich side is not a problem and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage.

 

The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx. 12.5:1 and up to approx. 13.5:1 Set total timing at 32-34 degrees. Total timing refers to the reading at 4500 rpm with the vac. advance disconnected. The closer to the lower number (32 degrees) the total timing is, the safer your engine will be. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing.

 

We do not recommend running the vacuum advance with this engine.

 

Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller or ignition kill switch. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting. 

 

Do not run regular gas in this engine, no matter how much you have reduced the timing. It may not be enough! You may have run an old car in the past that pinged and clattered under load for many miles, and this didn't seem to hurt it. Most cars from the 60's and 70's had very low compression, especially when nearly worn out, and this is why the detonation did not destroy the engine. Excessive pinging, spark knock or valve clatter, as it's often referred to, may destroy this engine very quickly. Light pinging now and then is unlikely to do any damage, but it certainly will when there is an excessive amount of it under load. You may run regular gas in an emergency situation, but drive the car with reduced acceleration until you can find premium fuel. In some cases we can build certain engines with a reduced compression that will run on regular fuel or mid-grade, but these engines are to be setup with greatly reduced camshaft profiles. 

Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping (aka spark knock) for very long, and you will lose the engine due to detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly.

 

Spark Plugs: We recommend the Autolite brand, part number Autolite 3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine when running in very hot climate. Race grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Keep the temp in the low to middle range. Use a plug that's too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition; use a plug that's too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start.

 

Most of our engines come with spark plugs in them, depending on the package you purchase. You may also use NGK part # NGK 4554, a plug that is one step lower in heat range than the Autolite plug. The NGK plug is only to be run during very hot weather.

 

You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It's more to do with heat range than any other factor. Factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do determine the temp range to run.

 

A slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, as well as possible difficulty in starting. However, you can have much more serious issues by running plugs with high temp ranges.

 

Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it's consistent, and not climbing.

 

Never use any of the modern day type antifreeze formulas that are used in most newer cars. This will most likely destroy the gasket material used in these engines. We have a customer that used the orange colored antifreeze made for Toyota trucks as he happened to have this on hand. This led to a failure of the high quality Felpro intake gaskets. The print seal material was partially dissolved allowing great amounts of coolant into the combustion chamber. This led to a catastrophic engine failure. The correct type of antifreeze to use should be ethylene glycol based, usually green colored. There are some animal safe substitutes on the market that should be ok to use. A mixture of 50/50 or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Keep the engine temp down if possible, but don't worry if you can't get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950, and never too far below this unless you are running the smaller engine cam choices. The reduced size cams would allow for a lower idle speed.

 

Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period.

 

Do not overfill with engine oil. Slightly less than normal is better than too much, in most cases. Using half a quart less oil can greatly reduce potential oil leaks. This is a common practice in many high performance engines.

 

If your engine is equipped with a choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult.

 

If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine, and will huge amounts of fuel.

 

If you feel you can get by without using the choke, then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering, the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all.

 

Hydraulic roller setups are virtually maintenance-free and require little if any maintenance. Some of our engines come setup with what is known as a hybrid valvetrain. These require very little maintenance and are very reliable.   

Our recommendations will change from time to time. We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and from feedback from our customers. We know there's always room for improvement. We're always working on research and development, as does any successful business. We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis.

Why have we given such detailed information on our warranty and maintenance suggestions? Some customers bought our engines and did not fully understand our warranty and the maintenance needs of the engines.

Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do's and don'ts is asking for problems.  We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information.

However, beware of some individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little.  Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines.

Special note.

Engines that are setup with a full solid roller valvetrain should not be driven for excessively long distances or for long periods of time on the street. A weekend of racing at the drag strip would likely have less of an effect on the valve train components than a 100 mile easy drive as far as wear is concerned. 

 

If you do think you will be driving significant numbers of miles, we strongly recommend staying with our hydraulic roller cam package or the hybrid valve train setup. The warranty on the hydraulic or hybrid roller cam and valve train components is the same as the rest of the engine.  See our other listings for info on all of our engines. Engines with a full solid roller valvetrain do require an occasional lash adjustment.  

Skip White

Your engine info will include the balance sheet and other information on this engine such as cam card, and your invoice will show your personal selection of the options offered. 

Many have asked why we're able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It's because we're a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase price for the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master warehouse distributor (WD) pricing. Few machine shops ever get to master-wd pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.

Our Engine Shipping Procedure.

Your engine will be in a crate on a pallet, and you will receive a roll around engine cradle at no additional cost. The value of the engine cradle and lift plate is approx. $65.00 Your engine will also be fully insured. 

Below are pictures showing how your engine is prepared for shipping. We start with a heavy duty pallet with an OSB base, then the engine is put on an engine cradle, (wheels are included) and bolted to the pallet with an engine lift plate installed on the intake and fully shrink wrapped to avoid scuffing the engine when removing the crate and this also protects the engine in the event the outer crate is knocked loose during shipping. We then build a heavy duty custom engine crate that is bolted and nailed onto the base over the engine and once again shrink wrap the complete crate for added strength. Prior to shipping you will be sent a close up picture showing your engine on the pallet including any other items you purchased with your engine.

ENGINES_READY_FOR_SHIPPING_(2)

ENGINES_READY_FOR_SHIPPING_(3)

We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.

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Contact us for shipping cost for overseas delivery. We have excellent sources for low cost shipping anywhere in the world.

We have now included a flat rate shipping fee on this engine within the 48 continental states.  This rate only applies to delivery to a business with the capability to unload the engine without the use of a lift gate. You must have a dock or fork lift. We can have the engine delivered to a residence with lift gate service but at an additional cost.

Transmission Recommendations by Skip White

Your selection of what type transmission you're going to use with your new engine is very important. I'm going to give you the real lowdown on what transmissions I recommend, as well as the ones I would stay away from. For those building a mild, (detuned) street rod, (small cam choice, dual plane intake) these recommendations are not as critical. We offer an excellent line of automatic performance rated transmissions built by TCI. The quality and cost are excellent.

700R4: Worst possible transmission choice when used with moderate to high horse power engines. 

Pros.

  • Driving at 50 and above in overdrive certainly has its advantages such as increased fuel mileage, reduced wear and tear on the engine, less engine noise, reduced emissions/pollution.  
  • Fuel injection/EFI does make this transmission operate much better providing the cam choice, intake manifold and final gearing are setup correctly.
  • To setup an engine to operate properly with this transmission requires a detuning of the engine and top end horse power is greatly reduced. 

Cons

  • Very wide first to second gear spread. First gear is a 3.06 ratio Second is a 1.62 ratio. This nearly equates to skipping from first to third gear with a manual trans. This kills acceleration when these trans go into second gear on a carbureted engine with a healthy cam and large runner intake manifold. Compare this to a TH350. First gear at 2.52 ratio and second gear is 1.52, do the math.
  • The 3.06 first gear is so low that any final gear of above 3.55 or numerically higher will have you right at the  max rpm at around 35 mph, only to then have your car fall on its face when it hits second gear, feeling like it skipped a gear. Wheel spin is uncontrollable upon hard launches, unless you have a very tall final gear, and then you can for sure count on going nowhere quickly when second gear comes in. Overdrive would be totally useless at highway speed regardless of detuning with a tall final gear, unless you were cruising at around 100 mph.
  • Huge cost to build up to a decent street rod level. Don't even consider a stock rebuild to handle 500 hp or more. Under hard use, the 700R4 will fail quickly. 
  • Limited as to what level these can be built up to. High performance transmission builders and parts suppliers don't even recognize this as a serious transmission.
  • More complex to build than a TH350 and far more expensive, especially when built up to handle high hp numbers.
  • Having to run a cumbersome throttle value cable to the carb. linkage. This feature actually serves a good purpose, but if not set properly, it can destroy your transmission quickly. Very critical adjustment, and often overlooked.
  • The overdrive is actually useless with engines running decent size cams relative to the cubic inch, especially with large runner dual plane intakes, and single plane intakes are out of the question with this trans.
  • Stall converters are double the cost of the one run in a TH350.
  • This is  not a very reliable transmission in a street rod.
  • Lowers the value of your vehicle to some degree, especially on high hp builds. These transmissions do not belong in most carbureted street rods. You must detune an engine considerably to operate the overdrive and be able to tolerate the first to second gear drop.
  • Could be classified as the worst mismatch of parts known on a true street rod.
  • As a side note, I would like to mention that most of us have owned a regular stock street car with a 700R4 trans, or its electronic likeness, a 4L60E, and didn't find much of an issue with the way they operated, especially if the vehicle was fuel injected. This is because stock car engines are designed to operate totally different in the very low rpm range. They have huge amounts of off idle torque compared to the average carbureted street rod that makes 400 hp or more. This off idle instant torque allows the vehicle to keep its speed up decently when the 700R4 drops into second gear, and the same low rpm also allows the overdrive gear to operate normally at very low rpm. There are other factors that also allow these trans. to operate at low rpm, especially on fuel injected computer driven engines.

TH350: Best transmission choice, hands down.

Pros

  • Excellent gear spread between all three gears.
  • Very low cost to build up to various levels of power handling.
  • Can be built up to extreme power handling capabilities.
  • Most all transmission shops are capable of building these to at least level 1 or 2.
  • No TV cable to deal with.
  • Stall converters are low in cost, and the selection is broad. 
  • Very reliable and simple to repair if needed.

Cons

  • None, simply none! Select a final gear that will allow you the best overall performance and one that allows a decent off the line acceleration, and one that will be in a tolerable rpm range at highway speed. You must have the correct stall converter for optimal performance. This can make a huge difference in the way your vehicle accelerates.
  • These are becoming scarce, but there are still plenty of them around, and high performance parts are easily obtained.
  • You may have to go through this long story to your less than knowledgeable friends as to why you didn't choose a 700R4, and when you explain it to them, they may still think you don't know what you're talking about.

TH400, Excellent choice for high powered engines in heavy cars or trucks.

 Pros

  • Excellent gear spread. Very similar to a TH350.
  • Very strong internal parts.
  • Reliable.
  • Simple and inexpensive to rebuild or repair.
  • Best suited when running high powered big block engines and more so when used and heavy vehicles. 

Cons

  • Somewhat expensive to build up to higher power handling levels, as compared to a TH350. The TH350 has far more high performance parts available at reasonable costs. The 400 trans is not best suited for racing.
  • Internal rotating parts (cast iron drum) are very heavy and create a huge drag compared to most any other trans., and this is not a subtle amount of drag. The TH400 is well known to be a heavier duty trans. than a TH350 but this heavy duty factor was designed more for heavy vehicles coupled with high powered engines that may encounter pulling heavy loads or vehicles with tall gearing. Only the largest of the GM cars weighing around 5000 lbs had these trans. in them, along with heavy duty pickups, usually 3/4 ton or larger trucks. Even the half ton Chevy trucks didn't come with these in them.
  • They will certainly hold up better than a stock built TH350, but they are not a desirable trans. for a street rod. You can build a TH350 to level two or three that would be superior to any stock TH400 in every way for about the same cost. We offer the TH400 trans built to level 3 and this trans. is best suited in high powered big block engines, in cars that are somewhat heavy.
  • You will seldom see this trans in a true light weight Pro-Street car.

Powerglide.

 Pros

  • Excellent transmission to build up to just about any power handling level.
  • Most trans. shops are able to build this trans with ease.
  • Very reliable, and simple to work on. Not much to go wrong.
  • Decent first to second gear spread.
  • Rotational drag is very low with this trans., more so than any automatic on the market. Very efficient trans.
  • Stall converters are not expensive and many choices available.
  • Often used in 1/8 mile drag racing. 

Cons

  • Two gears, that's the problem. This trans. can only be run in cars that have a very high hp to weight ratio. It would be fair to say a vehicle weighing approx. 3400 lbs would require an engine output of 1000 hp or more to make it a rational choice, and even then, you would still need a decent final gear to get things moving off the line. The first gear in these is somewhat tall. Those running a T-Bucket roadster weighing around 1800 lbs. with a 500 hp or higher engine could make great use of a Powerglide trans.
  • Having only two gears limits having the best of both worlds when it comes to off the line acceleration and cruising at highway speed. The final gear choice limits the general use of your car greatly. 
  • This trans. will not allow a car to be setup for the best of both worlds, such as street cruising, racing, or highway driving, unless the car is extremely light, and the engine has very high HP numbers.

GM METRIC 200

 Pros

  • Has a better gear spread than the 700R4 but not as optimal as the TH350.
  • Not much good to say about this trans. It certainly has a place in some special late model applications, but old school Chevy engines is not one of them.

Cons

  • This transmission can cost up to three times more to build up to a decent power handling level compared to a built up TH350.
  • Cannot hold up to high torque engine builds unless an enormous amount of money, (Art Carr) is spent on this trans.
  • Most all the cons you see for the 700R4 exist within this trans.
  • This trans is not a reliable trans. compared to any of the early GM trans unless a great amount of money is spent building it.

4L60E Electronically controlled trans.

 Pros

  • No TV cable to deal with or shifting linkage. It has pump pressure control and shifting via electronics.
  • Not much good to say about this expensive trans. It is virtually a 700R4 with a modern twist. The same "pros" mentioned with the 700R4 would apply to this trans. also.  

Cons

  • Most of the same issues as the 700R4. Terrible choice to run in an old school carbureted engine.
  • Very expensive to build up to a high power handling level. Can cost up to $4,000 to build this trans up to a decent level. Computer controlled engines may require this unless you bypass the car's computer system.
  • Complex. Very complex!
  • Pointless to run such a terrible transmission.
  • If you insist on such a trans, the 4L80E is a better choice, as it has a normal gear spread, and is a much stronger trans. Still pointless to use with an old school carbureted engine in my opinion.

Four and five speed Manual Trans.

 Pros

  • Excellent acceleration at any speed due to many selective gear ratios. Finding a gear at any cruising speed to hit it hard is easily accomplished with a manual compared to an automatic.
  • More efficient delivery of horse power to the rear wheels with a manual trans. versus an automatic. In other words, less loss of power due to slippage as encountered with an automatic trans.
  • For some people, the fun factor of shifting gears is one of the high points of owning a street rod. 
  • Very reliable, long lasting. Low maintenance. Simple to change out a clutch if needed.

Cons

  • Can be very expensive to purchase a high quality modern manual trans. and high performance clutch and flywheel, especially the Tremec Series.
  • Can be somewhat complex to change over from an auto to a manual trans.
  • If you think your car is going to run faster with a manual versus an auto, you will be greatly disappointed. The automatic transmission can not only shift much faster, but off line acceleration can be controlled to a much greater degree. This is why most drag cars have automatic transmissions. All things equal, a car equipped with an auto trans will outrun one equipped with a regular street rod manual with great ease.
  • Missing gears when racing can cause damage to your engine, and loss of control of your vehicle should you drop into the previous gear during an aggressive run. Been there a couple times, dropped a valve in brand new Lotus Esprit shifting out of second into first rather than third, and locked up the back wheels on a Dodge Viper shifting into second rather than fourth at high speed. Nearly lost control of the car at around 80 mph.
  • If you're deciding to run a 5 or 6 speed manual trans because of the overdrive gear, be aware that most engines built with large lopey cams, and single plane intakes running a carb will usually not allow effective use of the overdrive gear.
  • Tremec T56 transmissions are very popular and highly advanced. They are expensive. They tend to be very notchy to shift when new. Takes many miles before they become easy to shift. They can be difficult to install in some early model classic cars, as they are huge compared to early model transmissions. They can cost a great deal of money to rebuild if needed. Still about the best manual trans out there, and can handle very high hp levels. The 6th gear in these transmissions is a double overdrive and will never be useful when running any old school street rod engine unless you are running a very deep final gear. 
  • If your engine is built in the upper horse power range, then you must run a level two or three clutch kit. These clutches are notchy and lack a smooth engagement like a stock clutch. This is very noticeable, and you will adjust to this after a while. A stock clutch can not be used on any engine in the 500+ hp range. 
  • Sadly, your wife may not be able to drive your car with a manual trans. This could be a plus in some cases.

A final note.

Our eBay user id is: skipwhite, and our eBay store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White." We are the original premier eBay seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other eBay names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article below for a more detailed explanation.

The real story...Skip White Performance vs. White Performance & Machine

I'm sure many of you have noticed there were 2 high performance engine builders in Kingsport, TN with similar names, leading to a great amount of confusion. 

We are Skip White Performance, NOT White Performance and Machine or Marine

 
Due to the name similarity many customers looking for us online inadvertently find them, thinking we are the same company. Definitely not...there is no connection between the two companies. We don't have a problem with free enterprise (competition). However, when the competition builds their foundation on such things as a name similarity and their supposedly long history of being in business, then we think it's about time we set the record straight.
 
We have owned the original White Performance company since 2003, with the exception of the machine shop, which was owned by Fred White at the time. He continued to operate the machine shop and build engines for us while we continued selling online under the eBay user ID of skipwhite and the eBay store name of whiteperformance1. Our official company is Skip White Performance.
 
Due to their limited production capability and many disagreements about the engine building process and workmanship, we opted to open a full scale machine shop back around 2005. Fred White began competing against us even though our contract had a non-compete clause in it. Around this time we changed our company name to, Skip White Performance to make clear distinction between the two of us. 
 
As our business grew, we expanded our machine shop, and putting heart and soul in this company, we have become the number one street rod engine builder in the nation. Our engine program is unlike any of the others out there. 
 
Fred sold his shop, (White Performance & Machine) to an investor in 2016 and the new owners continue to reap the benefits from this confusion between the two shops. This investor lacked any knowledge of this industry. They continued to use the White Performance & Machine name. Contrary to what is posted on their website, Fred White is no longer associated with the company in any way. Their main spiel in advertising is, "In business since 1979," when in fact, we purchased the White Performance company in 2003, with the exception of the machine shop. 
  
The great pretenders continued capitalizing on our success due to the name similarity, but degraged our reputation. We were at one time getting calls nearly on a daily basis from people that did not realize there were two shops in this town with very similar names. Due to the confusion, there was an increasing amount of negative feedback that affected our name within the street rod community, when in fact we have a near perfect reputation in this industry. We have an "A+" rating with the Better Business Bureau and we have maintained the A+ rating for many years. As of this notice, (10/20/2021) the great pretenders have an "F" rating on bbb with a fraud alert. Their google reviews will also back up what were saying. Their ebay store was shut down and their score showed a huge amount of negative scoring. Please help us spread this information to any all of your friends in the hot rod community. They are now shut down. Hopefully we can some day restore our name that has been damaged due to the confusion between the two places. 
 
All in all, we have been in this business going on 20+ years. Skip White's passion has been owning and building street rods for 50 years on a personal level. The knowledge he has gained over time has allowed him to venture into this business and succeed to a very high level.
 
Help protect others in the hot rod community and share this info with them.  
 
FAST FORWARD TO PRESENT DAY...We have become the largest street rod engine builder in the nation. Our engines, rotating assemblies, and cylinder heads are built to very high standards and shipped to our customers in a timely manner. We are a premier seller on eBay with a 99.5 or greater positive feedback score of well over 212,000 and growing.  
 
Our engines are custom-built to our customers' specifications and are shipped in approx. 2-6 weeks, perhaps sooner, depending on the season. Our rotating assemblies and cylinder heads usually ship out in about one week or less.
 
Now you know the real story, and we hope this helps with the confusion.
 

PAYMENT AND SHIPPING DETAILS

 


Contact us for shipping cost for overseas delivery. We have excellent sources for low cost shipping anywhere in the world.

We have now included a flat rate shipping fee on this engine within the 48 continental states.  This rate only applies to delivery to a business with the capability to unload the engine without the use of a lift gate. You must have a dock or fork lift. We can have the engine delivered to a residence with lift gate service but at an additional cost.

For tech support, please use the "Ask A Question or Contact" tab.

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